Timing made easy

[95eclipseguy]

I was helping a young man change the water pump on his GST A/T last night. We brought the timing to TDC and made sure all the other timing marks were lined up. Then he makes a suggestion on how to make re-installing the belt easier. It sure made life easy. Put the tentioner in place, set the belt on with oil pump and balance shaft pulleys on their marks. Pulled the drill bit on the tensioner and whala...done. Here's a pic.

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Just thought this might help somebody out.

 

[green97gstspyder]

I must agree with the use of the miller tool. It makes life easy.

 

[evileagleawd]

I use these to attach the belt to the cam pulleys.

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You did adjust the tensioner pulley and verify that the pin can be slid back into the tensioner after turning the engine 6 times right?

Are you saying that after removing the pin in the hydrolic tensioner rotate the engine six times and you should be able to reinstall the pin in the hydrolic tensioner? This is wrong if so!

 

[Dsmkauai]

Actually it's right if you properly tensioned everything the tensioner shouldn't move at all. Unless its really worn out, so after rotating and waiting the 15min you should be able to reinstall grenade pin. If you can the timing is in perfect adjustment. So evileagleawd why do you say it's wrong and what's your theory behind it?

 

[steve]

Are you saying that after removing the pin in the hydrolic tensioner rotate the engine six times and you should be able to reinstall the pin in the hydrolic tensioner? This is wrong if so!

So evileagleawd why do you say it's wrong and what's your theory behind it?

Please do explain why you think that you shouldn't be able to re-install the retaining pin in the auto-tensioner?

 

[green97gstspyder]

Actually it's right if you properly tensioned everything the tensioner shouldn't move at all. Unless its really worn out, so after rotating and waiting the 15min you should be able to reinstall grenade pin. If you can the timing is in perfect adjustment.

this is how i have done all of mine

 

[evileagleawd]

I said it wrong because you dont have to make sure you can reinstal the lock pin. It does not say it in the repair manual and i have done a bunch of tbelts on 4g63s and never had a issue. Direct quote from alldata witch is the OEM repair manual! 32. Measure the auto tensioner push rod position with a drill bit (distance between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body) to ensure that it falls within the specification of 3.8-4.5 mm (.15-.18 in.) as shown in Fig. 17.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

I said it wrong because you dont have to make sure you can reinstal the lock pin. It does not say it in the repair manual and i have done a bunch of tbelts on 4g63s and never had a issue. Direct quote from alldata witch is the OEM repair manual! 32. Measure the auto tensioner push rod position with a drill bit (distance between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body) to ensure that it falls within the specification of 3.8-4.5 mm (.15-.18 in.) as shown in Fig. 17.

That's what my service manual says too. I usually use a 4.5mm allen wrench to measure. Can't say I ever tried to put the pin back in, but maybe that works too.

 

[romeen]

I said it wrong because you dont have to make sure you can reinstal the lock pin. It does not say it in the repair manual and i have done a bunch of tbelts on 4g63s and never had a issue. Direct quote from alldata witch is the OEM repair manual! 32. Measure the auto tensioner push rod position with a drill bit (distance between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body) to ensure that it falls within the specification of 3.8-4.5 mm (.15-.18 in.) as shown in Fig. 17.

You're probably right in saying that it's not an absolute necessity that you be able to reinstall the grenade pin. But it's known that when the pin is in place the distance that the tensioner rod is extended is right in the middle of the specified range (probably not a coincidence). It's much easier to check the pin for easy movement (spins freely or can be removed/reinserted) than it is to get a drill bit properly positioned down in there and then get a good look at it. The pin method has proven to be a reliable way of tensioning the belt.

 

[steve]

If the pin still moves freely after rotating the crank and waiting like they tell you in the FSM (the rotating and waiting part) then you will find that the clearance between the tensioner arm and auto-tensioner body falls within the stated spec. (assuming you made sure there wasn't a wear dimple in the tensioner arm or filled it in)

There is much less range of latitude using the pin method yet it seems to be easier/faster since you never remove the pin until your sure the preload is correct. It was the factory trained mechanics that showed me to do it this way. Either Mitsubishi told them or they picked it up as a shortcut to get the job done quicker.

The FSM also says to use a beam style torque wrench to set the pre-load but this way gives you direct feedback on the pre-load since too little or too much and the pin remains tight

 

[1995 brian]

is there any tutorials on how to use the special tools for timing job. ?

 

[nubi4life]

im gonna need to get one of those tools. I think the ams one will work the best

 

[6bolt4g63]

Definitly a must to have these tools when doing a Tbelt job. I hate messing with the tbelt cover :/