2g GSX low idle, stalling easy

[smills1840]

Hey guys. So here's the story.

I had a coolant leak coming out of the water pipe where it connect to the water pump. Pulled the T-Stat housing, but also unbolted everything that was connected to the housing. I'm not 100% sure on the names of the parts, but there is one fitting on the side that covers the thermostat, and then one on top with several coolant hoses. Anyway, I removed everything, pulled the water pipe, replaced the orings and re-assembled. The leak stopped, but now the car has trouble idling, and it stalls much easier than normal. I really have to give it some gas to keep it from stall. Occasionally when I shift up to take a turn or something, the car will almost stall and sometimes it does completely stall out.

This sounds like a boost leak, which is quite possible since I did have to disconnect a couple intake pipes to get access to bolts. I just went out and bought stuff to make a BLT, but the car is too hot to be messing with so I'll do it in the morning.

I am about 95% confident that I reconnect all hoses and fittings properly. I can't see any disconnected hoses anywhere, and I didn't disconnect any sensors.

Here is a video of the idle problem:

GSX Idle Problem - YouTube

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[idkiliketurbos]

My car does that same exact thing on a warm start. The only boost leaks I have are the throttle body shaft seals.

 

[smills1840]

Does yours want to stall a lot too?

 

[schroder]

With it dropping like that because of the AC being turned on, look at your alternator. It may not be able to keep up with the additional demand of the battery immediately, but is able to keep it from stalling out by providing just enough juice. Just my .02

 

[smills1840]

With it dropping like that because of the AC being turned on, look at your alternator. It may not be able to keep up with the additional demand of the battery immediately, but is able to keep it from stalling out by providing just enough juice. Just my .02

Well that really isn't my main concern honestly. I was just trying to show you guys that things like that bring it really close to stalling, but then it recovers.

 

[lauj2gdsm]

i had the same issues. it was i my iac valve.

 

[smills1840]

i had the same issues. it was i my iac valve.

Did you replace it?

 

[IRONLUNG]

Good idea with doing a BLT.. another thing to check out is your throttle body. When this was happening to me it turned out one of the sensors on my cars TB was off, and I bought another TB off ebay with all new sensors.. so now I have a spare.

 

[idkiliketurbos]

Does yours want to stall a lot too?

Typically mine doesn't actually stall, but when I start the car with the engine warm it will do exactly what yours does in the video where it starts up, then dips down to almost 0, and then tries to get back to where it needs to be. Sometimes when I come to a stop and put it in neutral, it will die down a few hundred rpm's and kind of hunt for the right spot to idle at.

 

[smills1840]

Well I'm doing BLTs right now, and I can't really hear a definite leak. I can hear air moving through the system, but no crazy high pitched hissing noises or anything.

Typically mine doesn't actually stall, but when I start the car with the engine warm it will do exactly what yours does in the video where it starts up, then dips down to almost 0, and then tries to get back to where it needs to be. Sometimes when I come to a stop and put it in neutral, it will die down a few hundred rpm's and kind of hunt for the right spot to idle at.

This is EXACTLY what mine does. Have you researched any solutions?

Alright so after doing multiple BLTs, I can hear a slight leak near the throttle body but I can't find where it's coming from exactly.

I reconnected everything and took it for a drive. The idle is still low, but it didn't stall. After parking it and letting it sit for 30 minutes, I went to start it up again and the idle was high and really rough.

Turned it off and started it again, and then it went back to super low idle.

 

[smills1840]

Nobody has any ideas?

 

[zanderson]

If your TPS is mis-adjusted it can cause stalling insues; your IAC should keep it from stalling if it is adjusted properly and working correctly. A boost leak check is going to be of most importance to ensure that isnt your problem amd you must have all your boost leaks fixed before you can properly adjust the IAC.

 

[Lou98GSX]

did you have the battery disconnected . i had to replace my sons battery on his 98 gsx and right after that car started to stall . what happens is the ecu has to relearn everything until it puts the idle speed motor in the right position.

 

[SmalltownDSMer]

Your stock oil pressure gauge is disconnected right? Noticed it didn't build any pressure while the car was running.

Jayson

 

[zanderson]

The ISC/IAC will go through its cycle and relearn pretty quick. In that situation I would let the car idle for a few minutes after it comes ip to opperating temperature so it can relearn IAC position and start to redevelope fuel trims.

If it were me I would make sure you have no boost leaks since they seem to play a part in 90% of the problems you will come across. Then adjust you IAC. Ground out the conector under the hood on the fire wall and adjust the biss scree till your car idles at 800rpms. This should center the 2 way spepper motor(IAC) so it can properly adjust for idle fluctuation such as lights being on, or AC for example. Aldo make sure your TPS is set right. All of this needs to be done at opperating teperature

 

[smills1840]

Well, I ohmed out the ISC, and all the coils read 4.06 and 4.08..but I wiped it down and re-installed it and I haven't had any of the symptoms for a couple days now.

 

[smills1840]

For anyone wanting to know, my problem actually wasn't a problem at all.

When you disconnect the battery for an extended period of time (mine was disconnected for 8-10 hours) the ECU will reset. It then has to relearn the position for the ISC through trial and error. If you are ever having a problem with poor idle after disconnecting the battery, drive the car normally for a while (it could be 10 minutes or 10 days, it varies) and the ECU will relearn the ideal settings for the ISC.

"Problem" Solved!