2G Stalling at Idle Issue

[killios11]

Hey guys,
So I recently got a 1995 eclipse gst with a 6 bolt thats fully built. Over $15k of upgrades in the car and I paid $2900 for it.

It didn't have a timing belt on it when I bought but after being timed I got super lucky cuz it didn't have any valve damage.

Shes running now but I'm having an issue with the idle. Unless you constantly are revving it, it will stall while idling and every time you come to a stop.

The seller also mentioned it has one injector that doesn't open up until about 1200rpm. The car had old fuel sitting in it for over a year. It was also never tuned after the majority of the mods were done.

Do you think one of those 3 factors or a combination of them would be why it isn't idling? It also has high oil pressure. While I'm asking this might as well ask, would it be worth putting in bigger injectors since I have to replace one anyways? If so, what size should I get?

It has an fp green turbo, aftermarket 3" exhaust, fp manifold, and a wally 450 fuel pump. I found a nice set of pte 1600cc lows but I still want it to idle smooth so are those too much? (I'm running 91 or 93 octane).

 

[steve]

Welcome to the forum.

Please fill out a profile for the car, it sounds like there's been a lot of changes to it.

What ECU/Tuning option does it have?
What size injector are in it now?

There are several generic problems with putting a 6 bolt in a 2g. Are you aware of them and know what's been done?

Your stalling could be the bad injector, or it could be a problem with the TB/ISC/ECU, or as simple as an adjustment to the BISS but right now we would just be guessing.

 

[killios11]

Thanks! I’ll fill out a profile ASAP.

Right now it has the stock injectors, that was the only thing that wasn’t changed and the reason I was planning on changing them.

I was told it has a black box ecu in it, you will understand what that means more than me. From what I’ve read that’s usually in 97-99 dsm’s.

I was reading about adjusting the BISS earlier but it sounds like you have to ground out one of the pins on the diagnostic before doing so or it will try to readjust so I didn’t want to mess with it yet.

My battery is also going bad so I wasn’t sure if that would effect it.

 

[waltah]

One piece of generic advice: When your car isn't running right don't make additional mods unless there's good reason to think they'll make the problem better. Every mod adds a variable that you have to think about when trying to figure things out. It's better to get it running as it is, identify a weakness that can be fixed with a mod, get that working smoothly ...

Get and keep that battery charged. Michigan weather will kill a discharged battery. Heck, even Virginia weather does it!

On a stock-configured car I'd check the closed throttle position switch: If the ECU doesn't know your foot's off the gas it won't take charge of the RPM and the engine will die at stop signs, etc. No fast idle when starting on a cold day is another symptom of the same issue.

On modified cars I think that switch is sometimes disconnected so YMMV.

That switch is a pretty fussy adjustment and if the throttle body is worn then it may not reliably close when the throttle is closed.

Welcome aboard ... I'm pretty new too but this is a great bunch of people.

 

[steve]

Thanks! I’ll fill out a profile ASAP.

Still don't see a profile for this car.

 

[killios11]

One piece of generic advice: When your car isn't running right don't make additional mods unless there's good reason to think they'll make the problem better. Every mod adds a variable that you have to think about when trying to figure things out. It's better to get it running as it is, identify a weakness that can be fixed with a mod, get that working smoothly ...

Get and keep that battery charged. Michigan weather will kill a discharged battery. Heck, even Virginia weather does it!

On a stock-configured car I'd check the closed throttle position switch: If the ECU doesn't know your foot's off the gas it won't take charge of the RPM and the engine will die at stop signs, etc. No fast idle when starting on a cold day is another symptom of the same issue.

On modified cars I think that switch is sometimes disconnected so YMMV.

That switch is a pretty fussy adjustment and if the throttle body is worn then it may not reliably close when the throttle is closed.

Welcome aboard ... I'm pretty new too but this is a great bunch of people.

Hey, it’s been a few years now and I’ve learned a lot. She’s running great now dynoed at just about 600whp. Turns out the reason I was having the idle issue was because the BISS was missing. Never would’ve know that at the time but looking back it was such a simple problem and I wonder how I didn’t notice it

 

[chrysler kid]

One piece of generic advice: When your car isn't running right don't make additional mods unless there's good reason to think they'll make the problem better. Every mod adds a variable that you have to think about when trying to figure things out. It's better to get it running as it is, identify a weakness that can be fixed with a mod, get that working smoothly ...

Get and keep that battery charged. Michigan weather will kill a discharged battery. Heck, even Virginia weather does it!

On a stock-configured car I'd check the closed throttle position switch: If the ECU doesn't know your foot's off the gas it won't take charge of the RPM and the engine will die at stop signs, etc. No fast idle when starting on a cold day is another symptom of the same issue.

On modified cars I think that switch is sometimes disconnected so YMMV.

That switch is a pretty fussy adjustment and if the throttle body is worn then it may not reliably close when the throttle is closed.

Welcome aboard ... I'm pretty new too but this is a great bunch of people.

100% on the spot

Great advice.