2G Low idle

[Ramsey91]

Hopefully this is the right forum to post in but I have a question for y’all.

I just put a new setup on, 20g turbo, upgraded O2 with dump, front mount w/ 3in piping, new deatchwerks 450cc injectors and NGK br9es. I put on the old O2 upstream sensor and waiting on a new one.

My problem is I am idling below 1000rpm and oil pressure will sit below 20 after a bit of driving. I did have misfires w/open injector circuit reading on cylinder 4 but after replacing injectors and clearing code it hasn’t come back yet. I’m thinking maybe the O2 might be bad but have no clue.

I can hit boost but it does feel like I’m about to cut sometimes when I hit 10psi. Do I need a tune? Afr is running around 12.5 or .86 lambda. Used to run at almost perfect at 14.7. I will be getting a series 1 AEM tomorrow. Can also add a video of what’s going on if needed.

 

[97EagleAwd]

Is there currently tuning capability on the car? i.e SAFC, ECM Link ect? Why are you running BR9's with stock injectors and stock injectors on a 20G also?

 

[Ramsey91]

Is there currently tuning capability on the car? i.e SAFC, ECM Link ect? Why are you running BR9's with stock injectors and stock injectors on a 20G also?

Nothing to tune yet. I’ll be getting an ECU tomorrow. I accidentally got br9’s and just stuck with them. They’ve been doing fine so far.

I’m gonna be sizing up on injectors, my buddy said I should be fine for the moment with stock injectors so I went with it. Looking at 1650’s though.

Also only running on wastegate pressure so it only goes to 10psi which stock turbo pushes the same. I feel like I should be fine until I start pushing higher boost.

Correct me if I’m wrong though please

 

[Ramsey91]

And there’s an oil leak from oil drain on turbo side. One of the bolts broke already (my luck), could this have to do with anything?

 

[steve]

Idle speed for a factory ECU in a manual trans is about 750RPM so it should be idling below 1k.

The Front O2 sensor is how the ECU manages the AFR while the engine is being operated in closed loop. The ECU cycles adding and subtracting fuel to average out to 14.7:1. If the O2 sensor is slow to switch the AFR will drift from that. While your accelerating or before the car enters closed loop, the AFR is based on tables in the ECU.

Lastly, 10psi from a 14B is not the same airflow as 10psi from a 20G. That said I don't think your going to run out of fuel right @ 10psi. So until you get a tuning solution so that you can run bigger injectors leave the boost alone.

 

[Ramsey91]

Idle speed for a factory ECU in a manual trans is about 750RPM so it should be idling below 1k.

The Front O2 sensor is how the ECU manages the AFR while the engine is being operated in closed loop. The ECU cycles adding and subtracting fuel to average out to 14.7:1. If the O2 sensor is slow to switch the AFR will drift from that. While your accelerating or before the car enters closed loop, the AFR is based on tables in the ECU.

Lastly, 10spi from a 14B is not the same airflow as 10psi from a 20G. That said I don't think your going to run out of fuel right @ 10psi. So until you get a tuning solution so that you can run bigger injectors leave the boost alone.

Thank you for correcting me, I guess I’ll tune the boost down momentarily then until I size up on the injectors. And O2 sensor looked really old so it may not be working properly, but here’s a video just for an idea.

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Just drove it too and it was running fine, just slowly lowers in idle.

 

[pauleyman]

Thank you for correcting me, I guess I’ll tune the boost down momentarily then until I size up on the injectors.

How do you intend to turn the boost down when you're on wastegate pressure?

 

[Ramsey91]

How do you intend to turn the boost down when you're on wastegate pressure?

Yeah I realized after I posted that. Was hoping no one caught my mistake

 

[steve]

Yeah I realized after I posted that. Was hoping no one caught my mistake

Not too likely around here.

Not sure what you were trying to show but it looked like the car hadn't warmed up yet. You might want to read https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/fueltrimupdatepoints and note the conditions that need to be true for the ECU to enter closed loop.

I don't think your oil pressure is too far off, from https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/what-is-normal-oil-pressure.437587/post-152994171 it sound like you are right where expected from factory specs.

 

[Ramsey91]

Not too likely around here.

Not sure what you were trying to show but it looked like the car hadn't warmed up yet. You might want to read https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/fueltrimupdatepoints and note the conditions that need to be true for the ECU to enter closed loop.

I don't think your oil pressure is too far off, from https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/what-is-normal-oil-pressure.437587/post-152994171 it sound like you are right where expected from factory specs.

Car was warmed up. That was like 45 min after letting it sit outside to warm up and then driving it for a bit. Just seems odd considering my stock setup was idling around 1100rpm and I had an almost perfect AFR. And oil pressure used to sit at 20psi at idle when warmed up.

I’m clearly brand new to DSMs and just wanted to make sure there wasn’t something wrong considering the change of how it runs.

So basically I was just trying to show how it was running in idle after being warmed up

It is possible I had a leak on the stock setup causing it to idle higher. It was really bad what the last person did to put things together and I’m just trying to figure out and fix all of their mistakes.

Here one more video. This is after a drive home from work just now about 30-45 min after startup. Just want to be sure everything is correct so I’m not chasing a problem that’s not even there

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And it just died too . Starts back up but dies after revving sometimes

 

[chrysler kid]

Oil pressure is normal, but your idle is low


What is your check engine light on for? What is the code?

You may have a vacuum leak. Normal idle is 750+/- 100.

Also i found the 20g is pretty laggy for a daily driven car. With 450cc injectors you will probably still hit fuel cut on a hard third gear pull. I really recommend running a 14b or a genuine 16g at high boost levels to hit power goals before running a big turbo at low pressure, but its your build.

 

[Ramsey91]

Oil pressure is normal, but your idle is low


What is your check engine light on for? What is the code?

You may have a vacuum leak. Normal idle is 750+/- 100.

Also i found the 20g is pretty laggy for a daily driven car. With 450cc injectors you will probably still hit fuel cut on a hard third gear pull. I really recommend running a 14b or a genuine 16g at high boost levels to hit power goals before running a big turbo at low pressure, but its your build.

Code is just for my downstream since I removed it and put my afr there so that’s the only code showing. Forget the exact code. And I don’t plan on keeping the 450cc, I’ll be ordering 1000cc+ Injectors this week. I’m just slowly building the car and it’s running alright for now.

I definitely feel the cuts in 4th and 5th and sometimes 3rd depends on how hard I go into it.

And I will definitely check for any vacuum leaks. Appreciate the help

 

[Ramsey91]

UPDATE: Haven’t had a chance to check for vacuum leaks but did put a new o2 sensor and so far seems to be doing the trick. Idles normal now and the other was working but was super old so assuming it was being slow. I appreciate all of the help y’all! Thank you!