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Timing made easy

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95eclipseguy

10+ Year Contributor
67
0
Nov 19, 2010
Gillette, Wyoming
I was helping a young man change the water pump on his GST A/T last night. We brought the timing to TDC and made sure all the other timing marks were lined up. Then he makes a suggestion on how to make re-installing the belt easier. It sure made life easy. Put the tentioner in place, set the belt on with oil pump and balance shaft pulleys on their marks. Pulled the drill bit on the tensioner and whala...done. Here's a pic.

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Just thought this might help somebody out.
 

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Close to how I do mine. Doing it that way still allows for movement in the cams. Good way to try and prevent this is to get the gears lined up with the belt tight and then zip tie the belt to the gears nice and neat. That way the gears don't move at all
 
I usually set the cams and then place the belt over them, and zip tie the belt to the cams. They don't move then.

Then again i've had no need to do this recently. Bought the cam gear locker from extremepsi. I don't think Timing can get any easier once you have that nifty little piece of plastic.
 
I do this

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Neat idea! Just slip it in and its good, be careful not to damage the belt face. Or forget it when you go to start it up! ROFL that would be bad!
 

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I use these to attach the belt to the cam pulleys.
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I was helping a young man change the water pump on his GST A/T last night. We brought the timing to TDC and made sure all the other timing marks were lined up. Then he makes a suggestion on how to make re-installing the belt easier. It sure made life easy. Put the tentioner in place, set the belt on with oil pump and balance shaft pulleys on their marks. Pulled the drill bit on the tensioner and whala...done. Here's a pic.

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Just thought this might help somebody out.

You did adjust the tensioner pulley and verify that the pin can be slid back into the tensioner after turning the engine 6 times right?
 

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Fu fu fu~

This is all you need. Locks the cams in place, has a nifty timing mark to ensure you're dead on, and slips in and out between the cams flawlessly.

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Aside from removing the engine mount and pulleys, timing takes about 2 minutes. This is only including the first rotation before letting it sit for 15 minutes to check tension.
 

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Fu fu fu~

This is all you need. Locks the cams in place, has a nifty timing mark to ensure you're dead on, and slips in and out between the cams flawlessly.

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Aside from removing the engine mount and pulleys, timing takes about 2 minutes. This is only including the first rotation before letting it sit for 15 minutes to check tension.

This is what I use as well. I will never do another timing belt job without it.
 

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Fu fu fu~

This is all you need. Locks the cams in place, has a nifty timing mark to ensure you're dead on, and slips in and out between the cams flawlessly.

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Aside from removing the engine mount and pulleys, timing takes about 2 minutes. This is only including the first rotation before letting it sit for 15 minutes to check tension.

Sweet! That is a nifty little tool alright! I like that better that putting a bolt between cam gears. This is a must have tool i think. :thumb:
 

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I prefer zip ties, mainly because i set my cam gears off from aligned point in order totake up slack in the belt so that the timing mark on the crank lines up perfectly. I've always had to re-do the timing 5-6times setting the cams dead on. then i read a tip in the VFAQ about rotating them a little and that's made it a one time job everytime since
 
I prefer zip ties, mainly because i set my cam gears off from aligned point in order totake up slack in the belt so that the timing mark on the crank lines up perfectly. I've always had to re-do the timing 5-6times setting the cams dead on. then i read a tip in the VFAQ about rotating them a little and that's made it a one time job everytime since

I used to have that issue until I purchased the cam locker tool. Then you can set the timing via the crank and cams, and then slip the belt onto the tensioner pulley (with a little bite to tilt the pulley) and on she goes. Installed the auto-tensioner, remove the cam locked, and viola. Perfectly set with no movement.
 
Can't forget about the most important tool needed for a proper timing job.

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Can't forget about the most important tool needed for a proper timing job.

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Agreed. Although I prefer the Miller Tools (OEM) version. With this one you don't need to use an 8mm socket to attach to it. The tool has a square hole in the center so a 1/4" ratchet fits right in, no socket needed. The lower profile makes it easier to work in tight spaces. But both work. :thumb:
 

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Agreed. Although I prefer the Miller Tools (OEM) version. With this one you don't need to use an 8mm socket to attach to it. The tool has a square hole in the center so a 1/4" ratchet fits right in, no socket needed. The lower profile makes it easier to work in tight spaces. But both work. :thumb:

I've got the miller version also, i just couldn't find a pic of one.
 
I have discovered the hard and expensive way that vfaq is not always right...

There is a few things that they have which are questionable, but I've not discovered anything catastrophic in my few years using the site for reference. What are you referring to?

BTW, That Miller Tool looks awesome.
 
Fu fu fu~

This is all you need. Locks the cams in place, has a nifty timing mark to ensure you're dead on, and slips in and out between the cams flawlessly.

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Aside from removing the engine mount and pulleys, timing takes about 2 minutes. This is only including the first rotation before letting it sit for 15 minutes to check tension.

the poor mans way is to take thin plastic fill it up with jb weld place between the gears let it dry and your done home made to fit perfect
 

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The only problem I see with the bolt trick is the came are in the same relative position but when they're both pointing straight up the teeth are not aligned, they are offset. Look at the timing tool from ams and you'll notice the pins are offset. So is the plastic tool but it's harder to see in those pics.
 
The only problem I see with the bolt trick is the came are in the same relative position but when they're both pointing straight up the teeth are not aligned, they are offset. Look at the timing tool from ams and you'll notice the pins are offset. So is the plastic tool but it's harder to see in those pics.

Hum, your right... Maybe its diffrent on the 420a, which that guy has.
 
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