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timing belt tension

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2ndGen

Probationary Member
21
0
May 30, 2011
Albuquerque, New_Mexico
I have looked at countless videos and forums and vfaq regarding this issue but none of them seem to have the answer to my one question. I understand all the steps in vfaq regarding the replacement of the timing belt except for ONE step which is step #33. Now it states "SLOWLY rotate the special tool no. MD998738 until it makes contact with the tensioner arm and remove the allen wrench from the auto tensioner"... I DO have the special tool which I ordered to save me trouble, but when it says that the special tool must make contact with the tensioner arm, does this mean that it must BARELY make contact or that it should make contact and push it onto the auto tensioner rod to relieve some pressure so you can take out the grenade pin? (barely make contact or make contact and push). I'm just not understanding it, and also if it means that you just barely touch the tensioner arm with the special tool can the grenade pin still be removed?? or will it be stuck until you relieve some pressure with the special tool? This is the only part I'm stuck on. I haven't tried it yet seeing as it is my first timing belt replacement and I don't want to screw it up.
 
The special tool allows you to remove the grenade pin but the tensioner stays in place. Once it touches the arm just a little bit more and you'll notice the pin moves freely. That's where it should be.
 
sweet. thanks guys. Its hard to see the distance of the auto tensioner push rod and the tensioner arm with the drill bit technique so I'm going to release the lower front member with the engine support and hopefully be able to drop down the engine a little so I can see. I ordered all the special tools required for this so hopefully I get it right.
 
This should also help
EDIT: after posting I see im not allowed to post the pictures with it. Dang.
AUTO TENSIONER INSTALLATION

If the auto tensioner rod is in its fully extended position, reset it as follows.
Clamp the auto-tensioner in a vise with soft jaws.







Push in the rod little by little with the vise until the set hole A in the rod is aligned with the hole B in the cylinder.
Insert a wire [1.4 mm (0.055 in.) in diameter] into the set holes.
Unclamp the auto tensioner from the vise.







Install the auto tensioner to the front case and tighten to the specified torque.
CAUTION: Leave the wire installed in the auto tensioner.








M TENSIONER PULLEY INSTALLATION

Install the tensioner pulley in such direction that its two small holes are arranged vertically.
P TIMING BELT INSTALLATION








Turn the two sprockets so that their dowel pins are located on top. Then, align the timing marks facing each other with the top surface of the cylinder head. When you let go of the exhaust camshaft sprocket, it will rotate one tooth in the counterclockwise direction. This should be taken into account when installing the timing belt on the sprockets.






NOTE: The same camshaft sprocket is used for the intake and exhaust camshafts. This is provided with two timing marks. When the sprocket is mounted on the exhaust camshaft, use the timing mark on the right with the dowel pin hole on top. For the intake camshaft sprocket, use the one on the left with the dowel pin hole on top.








Align the crankshaft sprocket timing marks.
Align the oil pump sprocket timing marks.







Insert a Phillips screwdriver [shank diameter 8 mm (.31 in.) ] through the hole.
If it can be inserted as deep as 60 mm (2.4 in.) or more, the timing marks are correctly aligned. If the inserted depth is only 20-25 mm (.8-1.0 in.) , turn the oil pump sprocket one turn and realign timing marks. Then check to ensure that the screwdriver can be inserted 60 mm (2.4 in.) or more. keep the screwdriver inserted until the installation of the timing belt is finished.

NOTE: Step (4) is performed to ensure that the oil pump sprocket is correctly positioned with reference to the counterbalance shafts.








Thread the timing belt over the intake side camshaft sprocket and fix it at indicated position by a clip.







Thread the timing belt over the exhaust side sprocket, aligning the timing marks with the cylinder head top surface using two wrenches.







Fix the belt at indicated position by a clip.







Thread the timing belt over the idler pulley, the oil pump sprocket, the crankshaft sprocket and the tensioner pulley in that order.
Remove the two clips.







Lift up the tensioner pulley in the direction of arrow and tighten the center bolt.
Check to see that all timing marks are lined up.
Remove the screwdriver inserted in step (4) and fit the plug.
Give the crankshaft a quarter counter-clockwise turn. Then, turn it clockwise until the timing marks are lined up again.







Install the special tools, Socket Wrench and Torque Wrench, on the tensioner pulley, and loosen the tensioner pulley center bolt.
NOTE: If the special tool is not available, use a commercially available torque wrench that is capable of measuring 0-5 Nm (0-3.6 ft.lbs.) .



Torque to 2.6-2.8 Nm (1.88-2.03 ft.lbs.) with the torque wrench.
Holding the tensioner pulley with the special tool and torque wrench, tighten the center bolt to the specification.







After giving two clockwise turns to the crankshaft, let it alone for approx. 15 minutes . Then, make sure that the auto tensioner setting wire moves freely.
NOTE: If the wire does not move freely, repeat step (13) above until it moves freely.



Remove the auto tensioner setting wire.







Measure the distance "A" (between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body).
Standard value: 3.8-4.5 mm (0.15-0.18 in.)
 
Op said he was going tog drop the motor to look. I suggested a mirror. It's all I've ever used to look at the tensioner.
 
a mirror in this case does not tell you the physical condition of a tensioner. This is why I inserted a write-up on checking the tension.
 
Special tool not needed. Gently bend the rear middle timing cover toward the tranny end thus negating the plugged hole above the crank sensor. Buy one 110mm 8x1.25 bolt and the corresponding die (6 bucks for the kit). Take the threads to the head of the bolt and thread the bolt into the stopper and roll on as stated above. Special tools are for shops and expensive #creativity!
 
Special tool not needed. Gently bend the rear middle timing cover toward the tranny end thus negating the plugged hole above the crank sensor. Buy one 110mm 8x1.25 bolt and the corresponding die (6 bucks for the kit). Take the threads to the head of the bolt and thread the bolt into the stopper and roll on as stated above. Special tools are for shops and expensive #creativity!

I still cant see why it cost $44 for a bolt and $22 for a piece of plastic. Maybe I am boasting, but I just did a timing belt for the 2nd time last week, 3 hours later, no special tools, DONE.

FYI only did the belt because I wanted Gates blue belt and it was on sale black friday.
 
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