1G timing belt issue *pic*

[stupify]

Ok so i bought a non-running 92 FWD turbo under the impression that it had a recently rebuilt engine with 10k on it and all it needed was a transmission. Fast forward 100 problems later and I am replacing the timing belt because it looks about 10 years old and i dont trust the previous owner who says it is a new belt.

I have yet to get this car to run right due to massive vac leaks around the injectors (and maybe because of this problem)

Ok so today I go to remove the T-belt. I go to set #1 at TDC (align marks on cam pulleys with the woodruff keys pointing up, and the marks on the crank sprocket and oil pump sprocket aligned with the arrows). When I align the cam sprockets and the oil pump sprocket to the arrow the crank sprocket looks like its a tooth off.

Now with some of the problems and ghetto rigged stuff that i have seen on this car it leads me to believe that the previous owner had no idea what was going on and was probably high when he installed the t-belt after the engine rebuild. My question is: should I remove the belt and move the crank back a tooth so as everything is aligned? Or do the marks on the DSM just suck and could this just be normal? Should I worry about any valve or piston damage if the pulley is indeed off a tooth? (when i turn the engine over by hand i dont feel or hear any contact)

here are a couple pics to show what i am talking about.

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[Gs Dewd]

Redo the timing and make sure all marks line up. I would replace both belts (balance belt and timing belt ) If feel uncomfortable any at all with it.

 

[larsrya8]

My question is: should I remove the belt and move the crank back a tooth so as everything is aligned? Or do the marks on the DSM just suck and could this just be normal? Should I worry about any valve or piston damage if the pulley is indeed off a tooth? (when i turn the engine over by hand i dont feel or hear any contact)

Yes you should fix it. No, being off by 1 tooth won't usually result in the valves meeting the pistons, but it will result in the car running poorly (rougher idle, etc).

 

[brodiedehass]

You are off a tooth, you can verify by putting a screwdriver in the #1 spark plug hole and at is highest point you should be at TDC. I doubt it caused any damaged because I have seen other off like 3 or 4 and no valve damage occurred.

 

[BUCK]

My guess is that your TB Tension is incorrect - that will cause this - If you were to watch what the TB does when tensioned you'd see that the TB literally "rolls" into Time as the Tensioner takes out the Slack at the proper point & pulls slack out of the rearmost side of the TB loop.

- My 2 cents on Tension Setting - latest revision.

- Set Sprockets & Balance Shafts per VFAQ - EXCEPT....

-May be necessary to BIAS = Mis-Time Exhaust Cam Sprocket ONE Tooth Clockwise - Belt Tensioning process will roll it back into time.

-Don't forget to apply Soft Loctite or RTV to Tensioner Fasteners & apply Final Torque.

-Run ALLTHREAD Tool in until Tensioner Arm Bottoms against Tensioner Body.

-Basically you preload the Eccentric Tension Pulley enough to achieve the correct Gap between Tension Arm & Tensioner Body - So...

-PRE-LOAD the Eccentric Tension Pulley & snug Pulley Bolt (I used soft Loctite on this Bolt too) - My favorite Tool to apply the Load on the Pulley is a Square Shanked Screwdriver that lays on one of the Water Pump Bolt Heads nicely for leverage.

-Back off ALLTHREAD TOOL a few Turns letting the Tensioner Tension the T/Belt.

- This is a good time to Spin Crank 6 Turns so Timing Belt can take it's initial SEAT in Sprocket Grooves.

- Stop at TDC & check Belt Timing Marks - This is where you may see that you have to regroup on initial Timing Belt installation & Bias the Belt as I said at First.

- Check Tension setting with Grenade Pin.

- If gap is too large you have UNDER TENSIONED BELT.

- Don't forget you have ALLTHREAD tool is there to help you hold what Tension you've got SO RUN IT BACK IN TILL IT TOUCHES.

- IF UNDERTENSIONED put MORE LOAD under Tensioner Pulley with long Screwdriver & SIMULTANEOUSLY loosen Pulley Bolt, putting more Tension on Belt & Snug up Pulley Bolt while applying Load.

- Now DON'T forget to back Allthread Toll off a few turns so Tensioner can apply Tension.

- Check Tension setting with Grenade Pin.

- If Pin checks Sat apply Final Torque to Tension Pulley Bolt & RECHECK TENSION SETTING .

- If Gap is too small you have OVER-TENSIONED Belt - Back off Tension Pulley Pre-Load a little.

- Install just enuff Belts & Pulleys to run Water Pump - attach Battery charger & run Motor with NO Timing Covers & no Alternator.

- Immediately when you get it running Check Oil Pressure & Reset Base Timing & Idle as it comes up to Full Running Temp - Start off with CAS at middle of adjustment - Check for Coolant & Oil Leaks - Check your new Water Pump & Water Pump O Ring, etc, etc...

- After a good hot idle or 2 re-check Tension with Grenade Pin & Button up Covers if all is SAT - Expect to see one good stretch as Belt heats up & "sets" in the Pulleys & hence need one good re-setting after initial idle.

Love, Buck

 

[kelvinb]

id reccomend changing the wording saying how it was rigged before you do anything.

 

[stupify]

i forgot to say that the the previous owner removed the balance shafts during the engine rebuild.

Thanks to everyone, Ill reset it back where it should be.