Resolved 2G Timing belt tensioner issue

[GSX_beast]

I was in the middle of putting my motor back in time and I came into an issue. I can put a pin into the tensioner without removing tension from the belt. Attempting to remove tension just moves the pin hole deeper into the tensioner body. There is still full tension on the belt.

Could this be a bad tensioner or could the pulley be adjusted to tight? I'm really clueless. The guy I bought it from said it a 1g head on a 7 bolt block, could this have something to do with it? And what are my options.

Thanks,
Charlie

 

[pauleyman]

How are you "removing tension"

 

[GSX_beast]

I'm made a tension tool using the battery tie down as stated in the vfaq timing belt tsb. But I loosened the pulley on the tensioner and then the tension came loose. Now I have the problem of putting that pulley back into the correct position because the pulley doesn't spin on the center axis.

 

[BlackTsi1992]

So you loosened the pulley bolt an you lost all your tension? Did the tensioner piston go out past were you could stick a pin in the hole to hold it?

 

[GSX_beast]

I was able to put a pin through the hole on the body of the tensioner and through the hole in the shaft without doing anything with the tensioner at all, as if the belt is too small. When I used the tool the pin hole in the shaft almost went all the way into the tensioner body. The tensioner looks new, so my assumption is that the pulley was in the wrong position, hence providing the additional tension. I'm thinking about tightening the pulley with the slack removed then loosening the tension tool and see what it looks like after that.

 

[BlackTsi1992]

You should just pin the tensioner then loosen the pulley and then readjusting it with the proper torque then pull your pin back out. If its a newer tensioner and a new/newer belt the hole in the tensioner isn't going to move far till the belt stretches and that's not for many miles later.

 

[pauleyman]

It kind of sounds like you don't know how the system works. If the belt is installed correctly you should be able to get a pin in or close to it. the tool is used to compress and/or hold the hydraulic tensioner in position. During install You tighten the pulley to spec then release the tension on the hydraulic. When you tightened the tool you are pusing the pin in. It it supposed to go into the body but you didn't need to compress it that far. Just enough to put a pin back in to hold it and honestly you can set the tensioner to where a pin slides in easily, set the eccentric then back the tool off and check everything. If you're not clear on what I'm saying ask.

 

[GSX_beast]

So how do I go about setting the eccentric pulley. It can be placed in different positions, and I'm assuming it's placement is important for proper tension. Here's what is going on in my head:

 

[pauleyman]

Please please either take the car to somebody else or at the very least read the procedure in vfaq.com and the factory manual. Yes that pulley must be set in a particular spot. It is the very thing that sets tension. I have several threads on here if hou want to search my name. Its a big pet peeve for me. There is nothing subjective about this job. If you're a good mechanic you can do this. If you're not I would suggest getting some help. The other special tool makes the job much easier but it is not 100% required.

 

[BlackTsi1992]

Get yourself at least a Haynes manual if you don't already have one. The procedure is right in there. Because you spin that pulley clockwise and not counter clockwise like you little arrow is showing. It will be a $25 well spent.

 

[gixxer6]

You should just pin the tensioner then loosen the pulley and then readjusting it with the proper torque then pull your pin back out. If its a newer tensioner and a new/newer belt the hole in the tensioner isn't going to move far till the belt stretches and that's not for many miles later.

BlackTsi1992 is correct. Timing Belt VFAQ (Timing Belt TSB - ENHANCED)

 

[pauleyman]

Not so fast CW or CCW depends on what block. Op said 7 bolt but he did not say 1 or 2g

 

[GSX_beast]

I'm not a complete newb, I did go to auto school for a year. I ended up dropping out after a year to take a job at a good friend of mines shop. I got let go after a month because they couldn't keep me on their insurance. I had some bad driving violations when I was a teenager that came back to bite me in the ass. So I ended losing my job and not being able to go back to school. That was a few years ago, but I feel totally confident that I can handle this job. I just have never done the timing belt before.

But another reason why I am being so specific is because the person I bought the motor had no clue what he was doing. I'm pretty sure that's why he ended up abandoning his project. He admitted that he was a Honda guy. I had to switch over parts from my scrap pile to replace wrong ones he had on. It is becoming quite the headache. I just want to make sure everything is the way it is supposed to be. I'm getting close to being able to drive my car after being down for like 3 years, I'm not giving up now. I've done all the work myself up to this point, I'm not throwing in the towel and letting someone else finish the job.

 

[pauleyman]

Great. Read the FAQs and come back with questions. The FAQs and writeups you'll find should be pretty self explanatory. I still prefer a paper copy of the actual year of the car. In your case it sounds like some things are changed (motor swap) so it's critical you know the differences also. That CCW vs CW on the pulley for instance. That is important.

 

[GSX_beast]

I have two Haynes manuals and I rarely use them. They are ok for minor things but they don't go too into depth about some things. I've printed out a lot of stuff from VFAQ and a few good write ups off of here and keep them stored in a binder. That's how I got this far. I'm gonna try my hardest to get this beast running tonight.

Thanks for your help, I really appreciate you explaining everything for me.

 

[952g63t]

Get this or something similar from somewhere else, you won't regret it.

 

[GSX_beast]

Yes, I was looking at those. I'm definitely planning on buying the set for any future timing work.

 

[1995-tsi-awd]

Sup guys... I'm following this

Timing Belt VFAQ

I've got the Jay racing install tool kit (awesome)

But I've got a problem with steps 27-36.

Why would you back out the tension bolt on step 30?

Every time I do this I lose all tension in the belt and of course it's not going to be in spec.

Shouldn't I pull the pin
Leave the bolt in place while I torque down the pulley?


Maybe step 30 applies to the pulley tool?

something's not right...

 

[SrKegler]

Use the threaded rod to relieve tension on the pin. Pull the pin. Continue running the threaded rod in until the pivot arm bottoms out. Apply 2.5 INCH lbs of pressure on the belt, tighten the bolt on the concentric pulley. Remove the threaded rod, or at least back it off enough that it's not contacting the pivot arm and use a feeler guage to check the clearance. IF you can remove and install the pin, you're about 30% tighter than the specs call for. The only time you need to put the grenade pin in is if you're removing the tensioner.

 

[1995-tsi-awd]

I'm not sure about the 2.5 inch pound part, but I had to tighten that pulley down multiple times to finally get it within spec. Seemed like more than that...

did two rev's on the crank and checked after 15 minutes and it's good.

I had to tighten the tensioner tool with a ratchet and at the same time pre-tighten the pulley with a open end. I torqued to spec after it was not going to move. I literally did that process 15x to finally get the clearance within spec.