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time for block heater??

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1cleanreddsm

10+ Year Contributor
112
0
Mar 25, 2009
Anchorage, Alaska
ok ive done some research,

i just need some honest opinion and feed backs to see if its time for a block heater..i just recently moved to Alaska and once again picked up a 5 spd91 talon AWD stock.. She always starts every morning sqeaking but goes away shortly, but this morning i woke up started my car, was maybe -10 degrees outside, maybe lower over the night, but set aside that, my car started but died as soon as i let go of the clutch, so i tried again, fired right up again and stayed on this time, then i realized my automatic chest belt didnt engage when i closed the door, and some of my cluster lights didnt work, like the oil, brakes, and check engine lights. Usually they turn on when i first turn her on. Is my electricals frozen??WTF then my clutch pedal was stiffer than usual, had hard time popping back out, felt like the fluid froze, if thats even possible!!?:hmm:

i left the car to warm up then idle dropped to 900ish, i droved it off the lot.. had hard time rolling and turning, felt like no powersteering.. i was paranoid thinking i might screw something up if i tried to push her to drive, so i turned around and parked her again, took my parents car...

has anyone have this happened to them in their cold climates?? any thoughts?? and i dont have a garage to keep her warm.. but any help would be appreciated, and i am going to get a block heater from NAPA regardless, just wondering if these other symthms is serious. and i just did a full tune up besides the belts change. ugh:(
 
Please use your shift key.

I couldn't keep reading your post due to bad grammar but if you are in Alaska and dealing with constant sub zero temps and have issues starting then a heater would be good.
 
Yea, I think it's time.

Get a lower rad hose style block heater. They work really well.

Also, switch to 5w30 weight oil for winter. It will help with getting the oil moving on those cold morning starts.
 
haha.. yea im at work and keyboard stinks, the shift is broken so i gotta manually use "CAPSLOCK".. But asides that, would a lower radiator hose, block heater, and leaving the car on longer solve the rolling, turning, and clutch issue???:hmm:

and i do have light weight oil :thumbsup:
 
Keyboards have 2 shift keys.

Yeah I think its time for a block heater. You might want to check into power steering/brake fluid for colder climates if there is such a thing. Where I live you cant even buy snow tires w/o special ordering them so I wouldnt know.
 
HAHA i live in AK, ever been there?? Alot of the places here are still old fashion because of the "isolation" I guesss, or whatever the reason, my key boards at work age ANCIENT!!!! regardless.. I have bled the clutch mutiple times before and was most certian that there is no air bubble. Everything just frozed. I'll update after the block heater is on..:hmm:

NAPA heater core part number (Freeze plug type) BK6053248
 
Living in Wisconsin back in the day we experienced much much colder temperatures in the winter. then -10

more like -20 or -30 w\ a -45-50* windchill.

the worst story I ever heard was cracked blocks due to too much water in the coolant (if there was any) and freezing.
 
a block heater will help get the ball rolling but it is not needed. oil gets thicker as it gets colder hence the hard turning hard start ups hard clutch pedal and usually no power til the car warms up fully. i reccommend new belts with the proper tension and always carry an extra (my 1&2g both ate the alternator belts in the cold), have your battery checked or upgrade to something with more cca and even changing your oil to a lighter say 5w30. ive had these problems on my both of my talons and they just have to be set up for the winter cold. and at only -10*C you shouldent be having too much of a problem
 
Block heater; light weight oil (5W-30 or 5W-20) or synthetic oil; higher Cold Cranking Amps battery; check anti-freeze concentration (50/50); check tire pressure (it goes down directly proportional to outside temp); When below 0F, keep gas tank full to keep condensation from forming or put can of ISO-Heet in tank if you can't (or suspect condensation in tank); wait longer for engine to warm up before moving; use type of ps, clutch, & brake fluids for cold climates (only if needed in extreme climates); and use a higher temp thermostat (195F) with cardboard in front of the radiator if you ever hope to stay warm!
(This all comes from 60 years living in Mn. where it gets between -20F and -30F at least once every winter.)
 
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