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Time for a new clutch?

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BLACK'98DSM

5+ Year Contributor
4,450
1,889
Feb 9, 2019
Alabama
When going in reverse, the car makes the loud whining sound. The odd thing is when I push the clutch in the sounds continues. It does not continue after the clutch is engaged on the other cars. Also sometimes the car wants to grind into gear. I will have the pedal to the floor but still sometimes misses a gear. I noticed If I wait a second after pushing the pedal down it goes fine, but doing it quickly misses gears. I have not noticed any chattering from the clutch, but sometimes If I let the pedal out slowly it still throws the car forward with a hard jerk. I have replaced the slave and master cylinder, so both are new. System has been properly bled and topped off. Could this be the clutch fork positioning? Does the master cylinder require adjustment? Or is this just ultimately my clutch?
 
The car will whine in reverse because reverse is a straight cut gear, 1-5 are helical gears to keep the noise down.

Grinding in 3rd could be a worn synchro or the master not adjusted correctly. How high does the pedal come off the floor before the clutch starts to grab? If it's right off the floor then you don't have it adjusted right. I've never measured mine but maybe 1 to 2 inches off the floor is good.

The 420a doesn't have issues with the pivot ball. You won't ever have to shim it.
 
The car will whine in reverse because reverse is a straight cut gear, 1-5 are helical gears to keep the noise down.

Grinding in 3rd could be a worn synchro or the master not adjusted correctly. How high does the pedal come off the floor before the clutch starts to grab? If it's right off the floor then you don't have it adjusted right. I've never measured mine but maybe 1 to 2 inches off the floor is good.

The 420a doesn't have issues with the pivot ball. You won't ever have to shim it.
I understand why reverse whines. I just don't get why it continues to whine even after I push the clutch in.

It starts engaging halfway up, and fully engages about 3 inches or so from the top. There isn't much room between engaged and not engaged, hence why it jerks and launches sometimes.

The grinding mostly happens when shifting from 1st into 2nd. Sometimes it won't go into 2nd, so I put it in neutral wait for a second then go into 2nd. If I take it slow and shift very delicately it does OK.
 
I understand why reverse whines. I just don't get why it continues to whine even after I push the clutch in.

It starts engaging halfway up, and fully engages about 3 inches or so from the top. There isn't much room between engaged and not engaged, hence why it jerks and launches sometimes.

The grinding mostly happens when shifting from 1st into 2nd. Sometimes it won't go into 2nd, so I put it in neutral wait for a second then go into 2nd. If I take it slow and shift very delicately it does OK.

Because the gears in reverse are still meshing together and one is driving the other. It also sounds like your 2nd gear synchro is toast.
 
As long as you are rolling and the trans is in reverse it will whine. Doesn't matter if the clutch is disengaged or not.

Have you check the shifter bushings under the hood?
 
As long as you are rolling and the trans is in reverse it will whine. Doesn't matter if the clutch is disengaged or not.

Have you check the shifter bushings under the hood?
I replaced them a month ago. I think it made the problems worse though, because it tightened up the system and revealed errors.
 
I understand why reverse whines. I just don't get why it continues to whine even after I push the clutch in.
Just to add a third explanation: the clutch separates the transmission from the engine, not the transmission from the wheels. When you push the clutch in, the wheels are still connected to the transmission, so as long as they're spinning, so are the gears in the transmission.
 
Solomon, have you tried "pumping" the clutch pedal and see if that allows the gear change any easier?
That would ,of course, point to air in the clutch system still, is why I ask.
 
Solomon, have you tried "pumping" the clutch pedal and see if that allows the gear change any easier?
That would ,of course, point to air in the clutch system still, is why I ask.
I have not tried this. I'm just going to bleed it again and if it still acts weird then I'll buy a new clutch and possibly synchronizers.
 
I hope its just air. I got a cheap 20.00 power bleeder from Amazon and it works amazing on hydraulics.
 
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Works really well. Need an air compressor and you just pull the trigger. They do also have the hand pump units but I have air so I went with this one. Simple but effective!
 
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