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New clutch needed...

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grendels_arm

15+ Year Contributor
47
0
Apr 19, 2005
springfield, Virginia
I was gonna take my car in for some service. Needs a clutch amon other things. However I'd like to buy a moderately priced aftermarket one instead of the $400+ stock one. A kit with the flywheel included would be great. Or if I can get a lightweight flywheel aftermarket that would be appreciated.

Also can someone point me to some good silicone radiator hoses and maybe some good strut bars? Thanks.
 
grendels_arm said:
I was gonna take my car in for some service. Needs a clutch amon other things. However I'd like to buy a moderately priced aftermarket one instead of the $400+ stock one. A kit with the flywheel included would be great. Or if I can get a lightweight flywheel aftermarket that would be appreciated.

Also can someone point me to some good silicone radiator hoses and maybe some good strut bars? Thanks.


A clutchmasters stage 1 or 2 would be nice for you.

Don't bother with a lightened flywheel, it doesn't do you much good in my opinion. Id go into depth why, but im too tired. Lets put it this way, with my 330+ whp, I dont have one.

Don't use silicone hoses. Ive had some of the best ones bust on me and I was even using the recommended T-Bolts to hold them on.

Strut bars are simply strut bars. Ebay specials will do. If you want a brand, I recommend either OBX or Megan Racing. They aren't the best companies, but their products are good for the money.
 
siueclipse said:
Don't bother with a lightened flywheel, it doesn't do you much good in my opinion. Id go into depth why, but im too tired. Lets put it this way, with my 330+ whp, I dont have one.
Id like you to explain this to us. why wouldnt lightening the rotating mass help?
 
i was curious about that myself
i just put in a spec stage 3 and opted not to get the lightened flywheel
mainly because it didnt want to spend the extra cash
but i have always heard that they helped the engine gain rpm's quicker
i have also heard that they lose rpm's just as fast when you take your foot off the pedal
 
lighter flywheel=
faster revs
help's to spool turbos faster
less roational mass means more power

I have the Clutch Master FX600 twin disc kevlar/kevlar Alum. Flywheel

get either a SPEC or CM
which one will depond on the hp your looking to be at
and
driveabilty too
 
I just checked a Stage 1 clutchmaster is $600. Come on guys did you see my price range?

How about this one at the very bottom?


http://www2.autopartsauthority.com/...del=TALO-ESI-001&category=All&part=Clutch+Kit

I know it's OEM but it looks like it includes the flywheel as well. And it's only like $250. Remember I do NOT race or anything like that. I do notice the stock clutch "chatters" so not sure what to get to help me out there.

I am not looking to get more power via an add on turbo, nitrous, etc. Sure I'd like some more power. But I just want a clutch that will be better than stock in all areas (longevity, performance, cost, etc). I'm not looking to make a 300HP motor.

As for the flywheel if the dealer opens the thing up and tells me I need a flywheel ($400) I'll be mad. I'd rather have one going in. A lightened flywheel will help acceleration because the flywheel stores the horsepower. Less mass therefore more acceleration. Also if I am correct this means more engine braking, or I could have it vice versa. I think the one bad thing may be low speed driveability may suffer slightly. But if you're lightening it up only a little there shouldn't be a problem. This is all based on being in a Ducati forum and people doing this to their Ducati's.
 
GSGoinFast said:
Id like you to explain this to us. why wouldnt lightening the rotating mass help?

Yes a lightweight flywheel will help with faster revs and such, but it hurts daily driving esp if you have a very stiff clutch.
 
search for the Spec clutches on www.horsepowerfreaks.com , i ordered a stage 3, havent installed it yet but it costs i think 450. Id like to see a dyno sheet as well for the infamous 330+WHP from this guy in which he has yet to prove to my knowledge.
 
dsmrunnah95 said:
Yes a lightweight flywheel will help with faster revs and such, but it hurts daily driving esp if you have a very stiff clutch.
That's a personal thing. I run a 9 pounder with a spec II. Does not bug me in the least.
MB
 
tell me how to put a lightened flywheel in a modular clutch without switching to a non-mod setup and i'll be happy
 
siueclipse your sig says 400 some whp, when did you do that, dyno sheets, vids of dyno anything???
anyways DO NOT GO WITH SPEC they are crap and at 308whp on a dyno jet it took me 1month to toast that thing and have heard many of other horror stories from these units but i guess you get what you pay for.:thumb:

if you dont race then just get whatever you find for cheap since you dont or wont take any of these peoples advice since they want you to have a clutch that will BENIFIT you in the long run just in case you do start racing or what not.:thumb:
 
siueclipse your sig says 400 some whp, when did you do that, dyno sheets, vids of dyno anything???
anyways DO NOT GO WITH SPEC they are crap and at 308whp on a dyno jet it took me 1month to toast that thing and have heard many of other horror stories from these units but i guess you get what you pay for.:thumb:

This is the problem with pulling up old posts. I believe siueclipse has checked out. Said he was going to and hasn't been on in a year.

If you look at the date on my post, you will see that I don't bash the Spec. This was before I had MULTIPLE problems with them and I currently bash Spec when given the opportunity. They are crap.

Oh, and Big Rand has made the OP happy now so our job is done here. :thumb:

MB
 
my bad i didnt notice the date on the previous posts, i also didnt know siu had made that much power (430whp and 411ftlbs) and also why the times werent there for that power level but can understand how many problems he could have encountered and maybe that being the reason he just gave it up and did something worth the money and time ( personal opinion of course, not mine though) spec still sucks.
 
lighter flywheel=
faster revs
help's to spool turbos faster
less roational mass means more power

I have the Clutch Master FX600 twin disc kevlar/kevlar Alum. Flywheel

get either a SPEC or CM
which one will depond on the hp your looking to be at
and
driveabilty too

so two years ago you already had this clutch setup and been working on this car that long damn bro catch up already then.:beatentodeath: :notgood:
 
YES LOL MUHAHAHAHAHA.....pretty funny this made me laugh

it has been sitting in my closet for a long time .....thats how long i have been putting things toghter and doing re-sharch for.. but this kinda project takes time

i know i know im trying to finish her. when im done ill come out to vegas ok, ok.
 
YES LOL MUHAHAHAHAHA.....pretty funny this made me laugh

it has been sitting in my closet for a long time .....thats how long i have been putting things toghter and doing re-sharch for.. but this kinda project takes time

i know i know im trying to finish her. when im done ill come out to E-TOWN ok, ok.

Fixed for ya :p

MB
 
Seeing as someone has already recently dredged up this post(and I doubt I'd need to start a new thread), I was wondering if anyone knows the P/N's or maybe some shops that sell things like a replacement clutch fork/pivot ball for our transmissions? I dare not even go near the local Mitsu-Stealership because they wanted $250 for the A/C+PS tensioner pulley ;X. For now I just rock the powerless steering untill Rockville Ring and Bearing calls me back.

Also, If I did decided to go with SS braided hose in the process, will I need adapters or new fittings?

Thanks,
Chris.
 
Seeing as someone has already recently dredged up this post(and I doubt I'd need to start a new thread), I was wondering if anyone knows the P/N's or maybe some shops that sell things like a replacement clutch fork/pivot ball for our transmissions? I dare not even go near the local Mitsu-Stealership because they wanted $250 for the A/C+PS tensioner pulley ;X. For now I just rock the powerless steering untill Rockville Ring and Bearing calls me back.

Also, If I did decided to go with SS braided hose in the process, will I need adapters or new fittings?

Thanks,
Chris.

I don't have an A/C but I also don't have a tensioner and my PS belt stays on, I would seriously look into hooking that up, you can ruin your hydralic steering by not lubing it up, this ain't no honda. I heard in a post that Paul was looking into custom forks and the like, he makes all kinds of odds and ends.

You live close to MD, I know for a fact that Salvo auto parts carries EVERYTHING OE for any car, try them.

-Alex
 
A clutchmasters stage 1 or 2 would be nice for you.

Don't bother with a lightened flywheel, it doesn't do you much good in my opinion. Id go into depth why, but im too tired. Lets put it this way, with my 330+ whp, I dont have one.

Don't use silicone hoses. Ive had some of the best ones bust on me and I was even using the recommended T-Bolts to hold them on.

Strut bars are simply strut bars. Ebay specials will do. If you want a brand, I recommend either OBX or Megan Racing. They aren't the best companies, but their products are good for the money.

This is the clutch and flywheel I decided to go with on my RS. http://www.performancecenter.com/pr...95/Eclipse/Vehicle+Specific+Applications/2.0L

PM me what strut bars your looking to get and I can help you out :thumb:
 
umm...please pay a little attention before bumping every thread in this forum. This topic is from over 2yrs ago, the recent post was answered then followed by an accidental question and some off-topic responses. Your awesome answer is indeed to a question and poster that has long since figured out their situation i'm sure :toobad:
 
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