The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

tial to internal wastegate

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

janks85

15+ Year Contributor
151
1
May 30, 2005
brick, New Jersey
I bought a 2g gsx with a tial 40mm(i believe PN 104819) with a silver spring which i read is 18.8 psi, the car is not HEAVILY modded or tuned it was mounted on the o2 housing so internal is not welded shut, i am putting back on the a stock wastegate to test if the tial was actually the cause of a issue i am having. now my question is the o2 housing is obviously now open where the tial WAS, can i just leave that for now? i mean in theory its just a o2 dump now..unless i am missing something, i dont wanna screw more up testing an already existing problem

thank you
 
If you want hot exhaust gasses dumping everywhere to melt all your meltable engine bay pieces leave it. Othereise switch the o2 housing or put a block off cap on it. Leaving it open will also mess with your o2 sensors. Wideband and narrowband.
 
so blocking it off as a temp to diagnose it fine? and im guessing you dont suggest a o2 housing with wastegate dump? that was what i was going to get to replace if the issue is the external wastegate
 
I wouldn't run the O2 housing open without the TIAL. It's a good way to quickly ruin an alternator. If it's temporary, rig up something metal to direct exhaust gases down and out of the engine bay.

Or better yet, swap out the entire O2 housing for a stock one.

What existing problem are you having?
 
would pretty much die after any boost, no vaccume or boost leaks(i fixed those) and i was told with that large spring and wastegate and not being heavily modded it could be causing the car to loose idle after boost, so if i sit and rev its fine unless i rev it high and get any kind of pressure it studders down and dies or almost does(i just bought car knowing there was issues so im trying to clean them all up) the guy i bought it from didnt say much cause i got it extremely cheap due to a bad situation the person was in so i didnt ask to many questions, i just made sure compression was ok, no metal in oil/trans fluid and no oil in coolant, paid practically nothing...
 
auto not manual, and the reason i assume it could be is cause the person who told me to test it had the issue. im pretty spent one what else it could be, my idle seems to sit right, bout 700rpm warm..i could boost leak test again but i think ive exhausted that
 
I did think that also...I have a Bluetooth obd2 connector and I'm going to run torque(monitoring program) or something like that and see if it shows me anything useful I will give update when I have one thank you..I'll also start a different thread with the actual issue if I get knowhere with it this weekend..thanks again
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top