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throwing code 12, maf

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snoozin

15+ Year Contributor
80
0
Oct 27, 2004
pensacola, Florida
i know my maf is good, is there anything else that could make me throw the maf code other than something messed up i the wiring (relays, other parts breaking, ect.)? Is this something a burnt ecu would likely throw?
 
yea, tons, wont rev past 3kish, constantly fouling plugs because it's dumping gallons of gas in the chamber, bogs and sputters, blows black smoke and all that crap. its stock wires, non hacked.
 
Did you check to see if the connector on your canister is loose? I was having the same problem and that was what was wrong. Make sure it is connected then disconnect your battery for a few minutes to reset the code, reconnect, take it for a spin and see if if throws the code again. Just an idea.
 
bought it from an upstanding individual off the boards that just upgraded to blow through. i might dive into the wiring and connectors this week. I clear the code, reset the battery, and as soon as i turn the car on it gives me the code. Unfortunately it's also not driveable, i put any load on it and it bogs down too much to drive.
 
So you did swap to a 2g maf and before the swap you had no problems? If so then it must be the wiring or the maf is bad. I sold a good maf to a guy and some how he had the same problem. Im not sure but the maf went bad in shipment.
 
no, didnt upgrade to a 2g, still the stock 1g maf. my ecu caps actually blew and i had no problem before my ecu caps blew. got an "untested" ecu w/ caps replaced, no burns, looks ok, but could still be the culprit. i just dont know if the maf not working would make things like my stock boost gauge always stay pegged at the bottom of the dial.
 
no, didnt upgrade to a 2g, still the stock 1g maf. my ecu caps actually blew and i had no problem before my ecu caps blew. got an "untested" ecu w/ caps replaced, no burns, looks ok, but could still be the culprit. i just dont know if the maf not working would make things like my stock boost gauge always stay pegged at the bottom of the dial.

Yea if you know someone with another 90 swap the ecu out. Sucks you have a 90 they are the rearest.
 
yea, lucky me i just moved here and dont know anyone with a 90. I'll probably just buy a new ecu and return it if it doesnt help anything.
 
would the isc/tps/o2/boost leak ect being bad make the car throw the maf cel? or would this pretty much either be a bug in the electrical or the ecu?
 
ok, one last question for anybody that can help me. If i'm idling like crap and throwing a maf code (even after ecu reset as soon as i turn the car on) and i disconnect the maf (assuming the rest of the car is fine) should the idle go to normal? if it doesnt have any change (still running pig rich and like crap) could i assume it is the ecu? I'm not sure if having a boost leak/tps/ect out of spec or broke could make my car throw the maf cel.
 
thats definitely possible still. is there any way to pull the maf apart and check the internals ect? i did a little more this morning, compression is 150-160 across the board (just to be safe) The maf harness is fine, checked with meter and it's within specs. reset the ecu, hooked cables up to my battery to get juice and started it, running the same, immedatly got the 12 code, turned it off and checked again and and was getting 13/14/21/25... maf and coolent sensor codes... also the infamous ecu codes... the harness to both maf and coolent sensor are fine, checked just to be sure, and unless both my coolent sensor and 2 mafs went out all at the same time i'm leaning towards my ecu. i would still like to find something on pulling the internals of the maf out to check it if it's even possible. hopefully getting a new ecu this weekend unless i find something else.
 
i was more referring to checking continuity on circut boards, what grounds, and what should have power running through it. more along the lines of sitting down with a wiring diagram and checking each circut on the maf internals and each solder point, each wire, ect.
 
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