throttle problem

[MHuddy1213]

ok so i just installed a small16g turbo a AFPR and 255LPh fuel pump set the psi to 43.5 with vacume unhooked and blocked and now when i hit the gas full throotle at 2500 rpm is stuters and car has problem with intial startup when its cold
could i have hooked something up wrong? thanks ahead of time to all

 

[NHerron]

Your vacuum line comin' off the fuel pressure solenoid? IE it is seeing manifold pressure all times right? Coolant temperature sensor hooked up? two wire connector on thermostat housing.

How about spark plugs, how those iridiums lookin?

 

[MHuddy1213]

plugs look good not burnt out at all did compression test too just to make sure something didnt go wrong other than what i installed vacume line is coming off fuel pressure solenoid i dnt think i reversed them cause when the car is warm starts no problem coolant temp sensors good dont know why my low coolant light turned on right after installing this too check coolant its all toped off gota replace that now and whats IE stand for?

 

[blktalon3]

describe the cold start up a little better. Does it not want to start? Cranks longer than normal? Or run rough when gets started?

 

[MHuddy1213]

i can crank the car over no problem brand new battery and all itll keep cranking over for about a minute then itll start then die right away than start then die again then itll start up and run normal idle is a little rough when she fires and stay running for like 2 seconds then will run fine and if i shut it off itll crank over and start no prblem no rough idle but will studder when i hit 2500 prms then be fine after that car idles a little high too around 1500 rpm

 

[WES_393]

Sounds to me like you have a big vacuum and boost leak somewhere.

 

[MHuddy1213]

i know when i originally hooked up the AFPR my friend messed with the adjustment screw before i put it in and he didnt tell me till afterwards -.- well when i started the car it was set up to 85psi and i turned it off right away and set it all the way down then set it to 43.5 psi could that be part pf my problem?

 

[blktalon3]

You sure when you put in the pump you didn't tear the o-ring that seals the pump to the tube on the sending unit. It sounds like your fuel pressure is bleeding off slowing. As far as the 2500 studder I'm not sure.

 

[NHerron]

Sounds to me like you have a big vacuum and boost leak somewhere.

^Cha'man -I think Wes is right. You do a boost leak test after installing that turbo?

 

[MHuddy1213]

i have a few leaks that i know of and ordered the parts the little stupid platic screw in my throttle body and throttle body gasket its not a bad leak at all just minor and i cant seem to locate the 2nd hose that goes to my charcoal canister i have the 1 that goes to my intake the other has been missing since i got the car

ill pull my fuel pump out this weekend and double check that to make sure everything is ok

yes i did a boost leak and those are what i came up with everything else seemed fine

 

[WES_393]

Try adjusting your biss screw (one on the throttle body) with the car warmed up fully. That should help your idle get down to a reasonable point if you don't have any other vacuum leaks.

 

[xxNocturnalxx]

I.E. stands for in example, example, or that is.

Sounds vacuum/boost line related.

Try adjusting your biss screw (one on the throttle body) with the car warmed up fully. That should help your idle get down to a reasonable point if you don't have any other vacuum leaks.

There is a proper way to adjust the biss, you shouldn't just start turning it.

 

[MHuddy1213]

what is the proper way? and would the leak from the charcoal canister do anything i know 1 goes to the intake the other is as far as i know goes to the fuel tank i may be wrong on that 1

 

[NHerron]

Like said, BISS is only adjusted after everything is in tip-top shape no air leaks. Really shouldn't ever be adjusted unless altitude is drastrically changed or someone played with it

I don't know what you mean with the charcoal canister and fuel tank, pictures? Unless someone else knows anyway.

 

[MHuddy1213]

well im going to need to replace it i alredy ordered it off stmtuned since it is 1 of my boost leaks

 

[NHerron]

Yeah that's a common boost leak. When replacing, tighten the BISS all the way COUNTING the turns. Then back it out and pop in the new one all the way closed, then turn back out the same number of turns as the old one. Pretty self explanatory, but just sayin' -it's important

 

[MHuddy1213]

alright ill make sure to do that also on my BOV it has a 2nd nipple on the lower portion of it ive read that you should leave that unhooked but when i do a boost leak test air comes out of it so how could my sytem ever hold pressure with it unhooked

 

[NHerron]

Your profile says Greddy type RS, which does not have that feature
http://www.greddy.com/upload/file/11531107_bi.pdf

What do you mean?

 

[MHuddy1213]

i forgot to change that im running a jdm BOV that my friend gave me so i could recirculate it cause the greddy rs BOV is atmospheric and the recirc fitting off greddy.com dont fit at all thread and size arent even close they say the greddy rz recic fitting will go on wrong the rz is course threads mine are fine threads but thats besdies the point that i swaped it out for now so i could recirc it

 

[xxNocturnalxx]

well im going to need to replace it i alredy ordered it off stmtuned since it is 1 of my boost leaks

 

[NHerron]

Sorry but JDM BOV is a little vauge. The only time I've seen two signal ports on a BOV is on the 1G BOV.

Is it possible the leak is just coming from the dumptube, like where it normally blows out the excess air? Or is there literally two small nipples coming off the BOV?

 

[xxNocturnalxx]

Like Synapse http://synapseengineering.com/smf/index.php?topic=41.0

(2 vacuum ports)

or like

Turbosmart Dual Port Blow Off Valve for Mitsubishi - Red

(2 blow off ports, 1 recirc.)

Maybe boost leak test with the throttle plate open and the engine at TDC and see if it still leaks out of that hole, adjust the bov to have a little more pre-load or if that doesn't work I would cap it off but we would need to know the brand and type so we can see what the manufacture suggests.

 

[MHuddy1213]

there is literally 2 small nipples on the BOV and some air slowly leaks from the dump tube but idk what its causeed from i oped it up both springs are there seal looks good on it

it has 2 vacume ports and the dump tube the top vacume port goes to the intake manifold and the lower 1 is open the dump tube is recirculated

 

[NHerron]

And you say the *lower 1* is leaking when doing a boost leak test? Is there an actual name of this BOV that you can get a rebuild kit from? If the dumptube port leaks that's not good

 

[MHuddy1213]

ill have to ask my friend where he got it from
actually i just found it wish i didnt now i relize why im having leak problems with it its an ebay special BOV that could deffinatly cause a problem now i know why my friend just gave it to me
this is my exact 1 here Universal Aluminum JDM Anodized Blue Type-S Turbo Charge Blow Off Valve BOV Kit | eBay im gonna kill him for giving me this p.o.s