This can not be normal ? Piston question .

[ROOKIE1]

I was changing head , manifold , turbo , timing belt items and so on . Also doing BSE , belt was already snapped and stuck in cover ( lucky I know ) . However , I do not feel to great after I pulled head . Here are some pics . Now what do I do . Any why or how answers would be great . You know this happened because , type of answers .

 

[bryanwheat]

I would probably replace those pistons, looks like someone detonated them pretty decent, that brown color is a good indication of that, at leats pull them out and check the ring lands.

 

[ROOKIE1]

I would probably replace those pistons, looks like someone detonated them pretty decent, that brown color is a good indication of that, at leats pull them out and check the ring lands.

What do you mean detonated ??

 

[SilverMitsu]

if you plan on re- using those pistons, I'd get new rings and blast the grit off the mating surfaces and off the top of the pistons...

 

[ROOKIE1]

if you plan on re- using those pistons, I'd get new rings and blast the grit off the mating surfaces and off the top of the pistons...

My plan changed the moment I pulled head . I am here for a new plan . What do I need to do ? What should I mechanically do ? This is a DD . I believe my profile is up to date . This should be last major fix mechanically .

 

[andymoraitis]

I don't know, but that seems to be heavy carbon buildup more than anything else. Look at it this way, new pistons aren't that expensive and it gives you a chance to basically have a fresh motor while everything is apart. While you're at, you may want to consider running a higher compression setup like 8.3:1 or 8.5:1. Add some forged rods to go with your pistons, a new set of rod bearings and you'll have a motor that's capable of supporting high horsepower. It's great to have even if you have no desire to run big numbers.

I'd pull it all apart and then assess what you need and take it from there.

Good luck!

Andy

 

[SilverMitsu]

as previously stated, just replace the rods and pistons, and since you're in there, you should change the pump because its easily accessible with the head removed.

Good luck, and don't forget top dead center!

 

[ROOKIE1]

I don't know, but that seems to be heavy carbon buildup more than anything else. Look at it this way, new pistons aren't that expensive and it gives you a chance to basically have a fresh motor while everything is apart. While you're at, you may want to consider running a higher compression setup like 8.3:1 or 8.5:1. Add some forged rods to go with your pistons, a new set of rod bearings and you'll have a motor that's capable of supporting high horsepower. It's great to have even if you have no desire to run big numbers.

I'd pull it all apart and then assess what you need and take it from there.

Good luck!

Andy

Ok , for those wiser than I . What would be suggest as a rod /piston combo ? What are the block rebuild steps to take ? This is not a track car , daily driver . How about a price range for parts , shop cost range and so on ?

 

[ROOKIE1]

as previously stated, just replace the rods and pistons, and since you're in there, you should change the pump because its easily accessible with the head removed.

Good luck, and don't forget top dead center!

Meaning oil , right ?

 

[andymoraitis]

For basic rebuild parts you can either call SlowBoy Racing or Buschur Racing. Both shops have a very good staff that can help you make the right choices. Let them know your goals and such and they'll be able to recommend a good street combination that will be durable. You can link to either site from here:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/links/browselinks.php?c=2

If it were up to me, I'd build it with Wiseco pistons (8.3:1) and Eagle or Manley rods. Use ACL rod and main bearings and a set of ARP head studs just to keep things buttoned up tight. Since you won't be racing, a composite head gasket will be fine. As far as machine shop work, the block should be hot tanked, the piston oil squrters should be cleaned and the block will need to be bored to accept the new pistons. It's also a great idea to get everything balanced. Basic cost for machine shop work should be around $750-$1000 and the internals should run around another $700 or so.

If you call either shop I mentioned above, talk to Jon at Slowboy or Jarrod at Buschur. Both are exceptional people and will be more than willing to help.

Keep us posted,

Andy

 

[andymoraitis]

Meaning oil , right ?

Absolutely! You may also want to remove the balance shafts and replace the front cover and timing assemblies as well. Nothing stinks more than building a new motor and re-using old parts on it. Make it fresh, take care of it and it'll last.

Andy

 

[ROOKIE1]

Absolutely! You may also want to remove the balance shafts and replace the front cover and timing assemblies as well. Nothing stinks more than building a new motor and re-using old parts on it. Make it fresh, take care of it and it'll last.

Andy

I already have everything with the exception of the front case . Anything else ?

 

[ddavisaf]

Fresh water pump is a good idea. Make sure for your frontcase that you buy a new unit. Do not buy a front case with just new gears. If you blow out some bearings you can get scraps of metal in the oil pump that cannot always be 100% cleaned out. Just replacing the gears may lead to failure of the pump.
For headgaskets I recommend Ajusa HG's. I love them to death for low horsepower applications. If I'm not mistaken they're rated for up to 400hp.
While your block is at the machinest it's a good idea to have them check the weight of the pistons also. Ask them to inspect the crank as well, and to check the rods if you end up keeping the 6 bolt rods.

I got lucky on my project. Machine shop costs for me ran approx. $400 for a valve job, enlarging the bolt holes on the head, over honing the block, polishing the crank, and hot tanking everything.

 

[ROOKIE1]

Any recomended shops in the northern Kentucky area ? or Tri state ? ( ohio , indiana , or kentucky )

 

[ROOKIE1]

Do I need to take pistons , rods , and crank out before I take to machine shop ? How do I know if the crank or the rods are good or bad ?

 

[GVR4592]

If you have any doubts take it all to the machine shop and they should be able to tell you what parts need repaired or replaced.

 

[ddavisaf]

For Kentucky shops I recommend posting a question in that regions section on this website. The frequent viewers of that forum will be able to help you find a good shop. If you take out the crank and pistons before you take it to the machine shop make sure you give them everything needed for reinstallation. Ask them to check everything for you. They will have exact numbers and will refrence those when measuring your parts.

 

[ROOKIE1]

If it were up to me, I'd build it with Wiseco pistons (8.3:1) and Eagle or Manley rods. Use ACL rod and main bearings and a set of ARP head studs just to keep things buttoned up tight. Andy[/QUOTE]
Why this particular setup ? So many choices , how do you choose ? SBR alone has 7-9 rod choices .

 

[steel_3d]

I'll tell you this right now, unless you wanna spend over 2 grand, a couple of months of your car being down, and major headaches that whole time, don't get into this. There's more beyond the cost of the major parts (7-800) and machine work (500-1000). You'll need a million odds and ends that add up, and you'll never finish it in the amount of time you think you will, because shops will screw up and waste your time. Every shop I dealt with so far wasted me an extra one or two weeks over what they quoted, because of various screwups, and when you need to deal with several of them, it adds up.

Second, it's not guaranteed that when you get all the parts and machine work you have an engine that's better than what you have now. You'd shit your pants if you saw what kinds of tolerances some supposedly reputable shops work with. <a href="http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=50350914">My current situation</a>. <a href="http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=221374">The recent rebuild that started me on this path</a>. You basically can't trust anyone who touches your car. Unless you have the knowhow to check their shit, you're stuck with whatever crap they crank out while being tired, lazy and not giving a ####. It may or may not last you more than 5k. How many rebuilds have you heard of, performance or otherwise, that went sour before 10k miles. And it's always your fault, you can't blame anyone.

Now.

From what I can tell your bores look good, and your pistons have some carbon buildup which will probably clean up by soaking in mccc or some other carb cleaner overnight. I had the same carbon buildup on my recently rebuilt block.

Unless you really really want a built block, don't get into this. I've always wanted a stroker, that's why I got into this. I don't regret it enough yet, but it's a shitload more headache than what I bargained for. Your choice.