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The Sexy Grandma 15 day build

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There was a spike in peak TQ and a little more HP but befor we could really go any further with boost we saw the dyno eat my tire. As soon as I get some street tires on it Ill take some pics of the hoosiers. Then we can start to tune again.
 
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Yup...
 

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It only ate one tire? Very odd, but I have had the dyno at C&S up here eat a pair of M/T's that were on my car.
 
Is it possible that the car was strapped down to tight and as you nailed the throttle it squated and hit the top of the rear quarter. It seems like its a pretty straight gash so i could have hit at high rpms and just aniliated it. Sucks.:notgood:
 
I still think it was a defective tire. I raised the car up just so there would be no tire rubbing issues. That worked out well... I do have some street tires on there now thanks to a local guy (baugh92talon) so hopefully well get her back on the dyno here in the next few days.
 
how'd you makeout on the dyno alex?

The new IM did make more power (about 25whp), but since the tire comin apart we havet had any time to do much on the car. The new cams I got will go in next wek as well as the new turbine housing. Then we will be back on the dyno. Hopefully it will be where it should at that point.
 
if you get bored. .. do you think you could go through and make a detailed list of your build?
 
if you get bored. .. do you think you could go through and make a detailed list of your build?

I guess I could do that...

-KAIZENSPEED Built and Blueprinted Bottom End
-Balanced Rotating Assy.
-Deburred CP 9.0:1 85.5mm pistons w/ 22mm wrist pins
-Carrillo 1G rods w/ 22mm wrist pins
-Cometic Head Gasket
-Stock Crank
-King Main and Rod Race Bearings
-OEM Oil Pump
-Ported Oil Pressure Relief Valve
-HSK 272 Cams (Now FP5R/FP11 Combo not installed yet)
-Garrett GT4202R w/ 1.01a/r (Now w/1.28 a/r not installed yet)
-Dual Tial 44mm Wastegates w/1.2 bar springs
-Tial BOV
-PWR Air to Water Intercooler w/ 2 Gallon Water Tank and Marine Water Pump
-Custom KAIZENSPEED front mount turbo manifold
-Accufab 75mm T-Body
-JMFab Drag Version Intake Manifold
-JMFab Fuel Cel
-JMFab Race Bumper
-Aeromotive A1000 Fuel Pump w/ 1-100 micron filter feed and 10 micron filter return
-Precision 1000cc Injectors (1600's not installed yet)
-A1000 FPR
-AEM Fuel Rail
-Sunoco "Maximal" 116 Race Fuel
-Skunk2 Adj. Cam Gears
-Polk Stg. 4 Head
-Jay Racing Alternator Relocation Bracket
-KAIZENSPEED Tuned AEM EMS
-QuaterMaster 7.25 Twin Disc Clutch
-Shep Stg. 4 Trans
-4 Bolt Rear End
-Stock Axles and Driveshaft (I know that I will break these but Im too cheap right now to pony up the money for the DSS Parts)
-Rota Slipstream 16x7 wheels w/ Hoosier QTP 26x9.5x16 Tires
-Stock Size Slotted Rotors all around
-NX Direct Port System set up for a 100 Shot (Its not installed right now but will be again in the near future)
-KYB AGX Struts w/ Ground Control Coilovers
-Autometer Ultra Light Boost, Oil Pressure, Water Temp and Tach
-PLX Devices SM+AFR DM-5 Wideband
-Hallman MBC
-GM 5 Bar Map
-JAM 3G Lifters

I think thats just about it.
 
We learned a few years ago slicks and dyno don't work together. The way the Dyno Dynamics has the small rollers it seems much worse. On Pauls 1100hp evo we almost destroyed all 4 of his slicks at the 600whp level. Street tries and dynos are the only way. Our 750whp Honda took out both of his slicks in the same way with only 2 pulls and it was down 100hp on the slicks.
 
We learned a few years ago slicks and dyno don't work together. The way the Dyno Dynamics has the small rollers it seems much worse. On Pauls 1100hp evo we almost destroyed all 4 of his slicks at the 600whp level. Street tries and dynos are the only way. Our 750whp Honda took out both of his slicks in the same way with only 2 pulls and it was down 100hp on the slicks.

We have street tires on there now :thumb:
 
Another little update. Gettin the new cams (FP5R and FP11) in today and I think I got a bum FP5R. The FP11 is a thing of beauty and is a spinner inside the cam tunnel. However, the FP5R isn't so graceful. With the rockers out, so the cam can just spin freely, it takes a crazy amount of force to turn it. So we took it out and tested its trueness and it is off by .001 on the cam angle side and .002 in the cam gear side. We didn't test the middle section so I don't know it that was true or not? But regardless, the damn thing doesn't turn worth a crap. So, ya. That's life I guess, I'm going to call FP on Monday and see what they have to say and see if we can figure something out.
 
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