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The Sexy Grandma 15 day build

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2 1.2 bar springs total.

Then it is going to build 1.2 bar of pressure. Both gates will still open at 1.2 bar. With two gates on a car the boost will be whatever the spring pressure is. If there are two different springs the pressure will be whatever the heaviers pring is.
 
Then it is going to build 1.2 bar of pressure. Both gates will still open at 1.2 bar. With two gates on a car the boost will be whatever the spring pressure is. If there are two different springs the pressure will be whatever the heaviers pring is.

Actually it will be closer to the lower spring, it depends on to many variables to tell exactly what psi it will be.
 
The housing and the manifold are divided and the runners are matched to the firing order, so shouldnt it act like its a 2 cylinder car and build equal amounts of pressure on each side, in turn open the wastegates at the 1.2 bar for each side resulting on the 2.4 bar of total boost? But I could be wrong, and if so Ill just go get a boost controller. We have a bunch of them around the shop.
 
The housing and the manifold are divided and the runners are matched to the firing order, so shouldnt it act like its a 2 cylinder car and build equal amounts of pressure on each side, in turn open the wastegates at the 1.2 bar for each side resulting on the 2.4 bar of total boost? But I could be wrong, and if so Ill just go get a boost controller. We have a bunch of them around the shop.

Waste gate opening pressure has little to do with exhaust manifold design. Your gates will open when the wastegate spring pressure (or your delay in the signal via a boost controller) is overcome in your intercooler system as this is where the signal is fed from. Thus they will both open at 1.2bar of pressure and you will be running 17.64 or rounded up = 18psi.

Glad to see that the car is finally done. Looks like you guys did a great job at getting it all completed. I am still debating full a/n vacuum lines or those push lock style for my own car.
 
Remember that intake manifold pressure is what actuates a wastegate to open. At 17psi, air pressure will overcome the spring and both wastegates will open, bypassing exhaust gases around the turbine housing and not allowing the turbo to spin any faster. So as of right now, 1.2 Bar is all you'll get, until you put a boost controller on there. Although depending on how much boost you want to run, you might just want to buy some more wastegate springs.
 
Cars not quite done yet... it starts but thats about it. Nothing to spectacular if you ask me. As far as boost controllers go, theres two ways to hook them up. With that said, please dont take this as my ways better than your way because its not. One way, from the turbo compressor housing to the wastegate, and two from the wastegate to intercooler pipe. Basically the same thing but a little different execution. But like to old saying goes, theres always more then one way to skin a cat.
 
Waste gate opening pressure has little to do with exhaust manifold design. Your gates will open when the wastegate spring pressure (or your delay in the signal via a boost controller) is overcome in your intercooler system as this is where the signal is fed from. Thus they will both open at 1.2bar of pressure and you will be running 17.64 or rounded up = 18psi.

Glad to see that the car is finally done. Looks like you guys did a great job at getting it all completed. I am still debating full a/n vacuum lines or those push lock style for my own car.

Correct
 
Cars not quite done yet... it starts but thats about it. Nothing to spectacular if you ask me. As far as boost controllers go, theres two ways to hook them up. With that said, please dont take this as my ways better than your way because its not. One way, from the turbo compressor housing to the wastegate, and two from the wastegate to intercooler pipe. Basically the same thing but a little different execution. But like to old saying goes, theres always more then one way to skin a cat.

Keep on truckin w/ the build my man :thumb:

By the way when do your tracks close up there?
 
Remember that intake manifold pressure is what actuates a wastegate to open.


WRONG!!! The only way that happens is if you hook the wastegate to a boost source after the TB, which happens to be completly retarded.

There is only one way to correctly hook up a waste gate, and that is to a pressure source before the intercooler.
 
There is only one way to correctly hook up a waste gate, and that is to a pressure source before the intercooler.

Always take your pressure source from as close to the cylinder head as possible. The intake manifold source is perfect.

Reason : You want the pressure source AFTER the intercooler. This is because there is a pressure drop across the core. If you take the boost source from the J-pipe, then you will be taking the reading from a source that will drop in pressure after it travels through the intercooler.

Example:

EBC is set at 25 PSI
25 PSI at the J-Pipe (Pressure source is taken from here)
Boost Travels through intercooler
Exit pressure out the intercooler is only 22 PSI

In this case above, the boost will only be 22 PSI in the motor, even though the EBC is set to 25 PSI. This is because the boost source is taken pre-intercooler. This causes very inconsistant peak boost pressure because changes in the weather will alter how much of a pressure drop there is through the intercooler core.

The larger the turbo, the larger the pressure drop through the core. This is why it is always best to take the pressure source as close to the motor as possible so that you get consistent boost peaks.


Mine is off the intake manifold. Putting it at the compressor cover could cause boost variatons. The air starts out fairly cool at the compressor cover boost source. Once the car gets moving the air heats up a good amount though. This variation in temperature can cause the boost controller to open sooner once the air heats up, which would cause less boost. This is why you want to put it after the intercooler. Most people won't want to weld a piece on the upper intercooler pipe to put the line so the intake manifold is the only choice.
 
Lmao about those pushlock pictures you put up!

I am a diesel technittion and I use those push lock fittings alot, especially during clutch installs (shift tower).

Ive wanted to use them on my car for months, but did not know if they could be used with a vacuum source and was gonna get to testing them but never did. Then i saw your pictures and started to laugh as I didnt expect anyone else to be using them.

I didnt know if the lock would work under vaccum since there is no vacuum on a diesel truck and thought the fittings were only meant to lock under positive pressure. Ive tried to take off a 1/4 nylon air line out of a push lock fitting, with 120 psi behind it, you cant!
 
hey man, i've been off the scene for about 200 days since i blew my car up, but i just got back on and all i can say about your progress, is wow. I am lovin this!
 
I'm just curious. Why are you using a blowoff valve on a drag car? I understand that it preserves the life of the turbo and those 42R's aren't cheap, but the process of rebuilding boost between shifts has got to be worth a good .5 seconds or better.

I know it's no comparison, but when I eliminated the blowoff valve on my stock 14B project to see what I could squeeze out of it, I dropped a full .7 seconds and increased my mph by 8 mph. I did that mostly for shits and giggles since I have so many spare 14B's and didn't really care much for what happened to the turbo since the 56 trim was about to go in. But I gotta say the results were suprising and impressive.

I noticed John Shepard doesn't use a blowoff valve on his drag car and it seems to be working well for him. Then again you may have researched this route and decided against it. I'm far from an expert on this subject so maybe you can educate me a little on this.

Thanks.
 
I'm just curious. Why are you using a blowoff valve on a drag car? I understand that it preserves the life of the turbo and those 42R's aren't cheap, but the process of rebuilding boost between shifts has got to be worth a good .5 seconds or better.

I know it's no comparison, but when I eliminated the blowoff valve on my stock 14B project to see what I could squeeze out of it, I dropped a full .7 seconds and increased my mph by 8 mph. I did that mostly for shits and giggles since I have so many spare 14B's and didn't really care much for what happened to the turbo since the 56 trim was about to go in. But I gotta say the results were suprising and impressive.

I noticed John Shepard doesn't use a blowoff valve on his drag car and it seems to be working well for him. Then again you may have researched this route and decided against it. I'm far from an expert on this subject so maybe you can educate me a little on this.

Thanks.

Having a blow off valve will make the transient boost response better than not havin one. How? It releases the pressure in the pipes which allows the turbo to keep spinning at high rpm's during shifts. Obviously you don't need a blow off valve if you nlts all the time since if you did have one it wouldn't be opening. Guess what. Shep nlts's all the time.
 
Having a blow off valve will make the transient boost response better than not havin one. How? It releases the pressure in the pipes which allows the turbo to keep spinning at high rpm's during shifts. Obviously you don't need a blow off valve if you nlts all the time since if you did have one it wouldn't be opening. Guess what. Shep nlts's all the time.


Yeah Shep never lifts because he uses his dog box tranny where a quick tap in the up position advances him into the next gear. I guess I just figured Alex's car would have that same tranny, or something similar after seeing all the other high $$$$ goodies he has. If he's using just the standard slush box I would be a little suprised. After all, that's where so much of the time in the 1320 can be improved upon.
 
i'm pretty sure the shep dogbox is shifted in a normal 5speed pattern. the trannys that are shifted by moving the shifter forward or backward are sequential transmissions like on a motorcycle.
 
i'm pretty sure the shep dogbox is shifted in a normal 5speed pattern. the trannys that are shifted by moving the shifter forward or backward are sequential transmissions like on a motorcycle.

What's your point?
 
OK... So today was a rollercoaster of a day for the car. We put her on the dyno last night so we were ready to go this morning. And off we go for the tuning. Everything is going well and we get start up and idle just about as perfect as it can get for an AEM, and off to the next step. As were on that path the AEM froze. Now weve run into this problem with the car for the last week or so and nothing ever happened except us all being pissed off and having to start the car up again. Well this time she wouldnt start up again or reconnect to the computer. As were trying to figgure this out I notice C16 streaming from the compressor hosing. My first thought, WTF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This is not good... LOL. We come to find out while we were trying to reconnect to the ECU the damn injectors kept doin there thing. Thats right it filled the #1 and #2 cylinders like a mofo and filled the combustion chamber in #3 and #4. Then it filled the intake manifold, then ran from there into the intercooler and then to the hot side piping, then out the housing. Oh ya, that happened for real. And no I didnt get any video of the fuel and my sanity falling like a waterfall from my turbo. Sorry. But... after we get that set back under control we attack the problem head on. We borrowed another AEM from a good friend of ours who isnt needing it as of right now and that fixed EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It was nice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So off to tuning, for real this time. The car is AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!! (Can everyone tell Im excited, LOL.) We were running on wastegate only, no boost controller just yet. So on about 19-21psi the car made 368whp on a Dyno Dynamics Dyno, on a Dyno Jet you would see about 441whp. We have noticed a consistant 20% gain from Dyno to Dyno. The air to water intercooler was doin work and gettin the IAT's to 52 degrees durring the pulls. It was 78 degrees in the shop. After the pulls we did a compression test and she was 160 162 162 164, within 2% of eachother, its nice!!!!! We were reving her to 8000rpm for tonight and soooo much more to come tomorrow. Were going to be adding a boost controller so we can crank that baby up and make power. The turbo is simply amazing 19-21psi by 5500 rpm and she comes on so nice. Needless to say were very happy with how she did today. I cant wait till tomorrow. Stay tuned, no pun intended.
 
im excited im glad to see all this coming together finally for you
 
Good to here you finally got it on the dyno sounds like some awesome numbers
 
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