The Big ROD thread!

[Mirage2LTurbo]

I run clevites.

 

[MNGSX]

I run clevites too...

 

[Rogue_Ant]

Ditto



Rogue

 

[Rick@AP]

I would say which ever you can find cheaper. I haven't found a real advantage yet to the Clevites over the factory bearings.

 

[GeneralChaos]

I got a question, if you were to run 1g big rods and got a used pair, what needs to be done to them before you run them hard? or can you just install them if they look fine? same question for 2g pistons, but wondering what those can handle hp wise.

trying to tally up costs, ive heard what you gotta do to make 1g big rods all fresh and strong ends up costing about what the eagles to, so to just buy eagles.

plus...going to certain races....definately makes me want to compete with the domestics.

 

[92redman]

Well, you don't really have to do anything to them. I would at least polish or shotpeen them to remove any surface cracks that may weaken them. Also, personally I would check the big ends for out-of-round, I think .001" is usually the limit. Also I would check them for twist.

If the rods are not straight, they can be straightened pretty easy, you would be surprised how easy a rod can be twisted. If the end is egg shapped or out of round, this is where it could get expensive. The cap and rod must be cut down some to reduce the inside diameter and then honed back to spec.

Obviously if you have to do machine work to them, it probably wouldn't be worth the money. Most of the time, though, you can just get new bearings and polish them up and go.

 

[philipkrotch]

Originally posted by Mo-Bo0st
I see three rods on that site, Eagle/Crower/Manley.

well either i cant count or you cant..i see 5
-eagle
-crower
-scat
-carillo
-manley

 

[Mirage2LTurbo]

Why would you machine rods if they are out of round? NEVER DO THAT - JUST BUY NEW RODS. More over, buying used rods.. ehh.. maybe. Be like buying a used condom, versus trying to repair a condom if you blew it out. You *could* do it, but why risk the chance that a used one won't have the integrity of a new one. Besides, after you pay for machine work, you could have a brand new set. Hate to see you blow a new engine due to half-assing something as vital as rods. I've got 2 sets of 1g rods, and might be picking up a set of 1g rods and 2g pistons already machined togather, so if you do decide to go with some, byu mine

 

[philipkrotch]

Originally posted by Mirage2LTurbo
Why would you machine rods if they are out of round? NEVER DO THAT - JUST BUY NEW RODS. More over, buying used rods.. ehh.. maybe. Be like buying a used condom, versus trying to repair a condom if you blew it out. You *could* do it, but why risk the chance that a used one won't have the integrity of a new one. Besides, after you pay for machine work, you could have a brand new set. Hate to see you blow a new engine due to half-assing something as vital as rods. I've got 2 sets of 1g rods, and might be picking up a set of 1g rods and 2g pistons already machined togather, so if you do decide to go with some, byu mine

hes right, i had my rods machined in my beater 2.0l just because i dint feel like spending money on it, it lasted me about 6k of beating on and it threw a rod through the block...and thats N/A...therwes a lot more strain on the rods with a turbo.

 

[92redman]

Originally posted by philipkrotch
hes right, i had my rods machined in my beater 2.0l just because i dint feel like spending money on it, it lasted me about 6k of beating on and it threw a rod through the block...and thats N/A...therwes a lot more strain on the rods with a turbo.

Then something wasn't done right, that is it. Either something was not seen in the process or the machinist didn't know what they are doing. They wouldn't teach us how to machine rods if it made them weaker, period. My teacher has used remachined rods that he did himself on his own race motors(600-700 hp naturally aspirated). I am not saying that is the way to go because you can find rods cheap anywhere, but I am saying that you can do it.

That is like saying you would never rebuild or buy a rebuilt head because that one guy's head that was built buy a reputable shop left the oil guide out and it seized up his cams breaking off the cam gear on one.

 

[Suparata]

A set of reconditioned and preferably shotpeened rods with ARP rod bolts will be better than new ones if they are done right. Remember there are monkeys/robots working in a factory on an assembly line type of work and you can bet your ass that they do not check each and every one of the rods like a rebuilder does. Factory gets them "close" and let them fly.
Don't even start me on a used rod!
Mitch.

 

[GeneralChaos]

sounds like a lot of risks using used rods. I plan on going over what 1g big rods can handle anyway (yea who doesnt say this, doing it is different haha) and id really rather be on the safe side, not wondering if I missed something on 1 rod that could break your whole project.

 

[philipkrotch]

Originally posted by philipkrotch
hes right, i had my rods machined in my beater 2.0l just because i dint feel like spending money on it, it lasted me about 6k of beating on and it threw a rod through the block...and thats N/A...therwes a lot more strain on the rods with a turbo.

haha..o well, i like running my car with no oil because it all ran out the block.

 

[JohnTSI]

I have eagles in my car right now, it is not up and running yet so I cannot comment on that but JasonTSI's talon is back up and running. Last week on eagle rods he was running 35psi of boost plus a 80 shot with no problems. Switched from crowers when the oil pump failed.

 

[GeneralChaos]

Originally posted by JohnTSI
I have eagles in my car right now, it is not up and running yet so I cannot comment on that but JasonTSI's talon is back up and running. Last week on eagle rods he was running 35psi of boost plus a 80 shot with no problems. Switched from crowers when the oil pump failed.

jesus, what cr pistons? and was it tuned good? thatd be massive hp.

 

[DamionGST]

I have a co-worker with a 618whp civic with eagle rods holding strong, it's a little different application but they are still eagle rods.

 

[JohnTSI]

jesus, what cr pistons? and was it tuned good? thatd be massive hp.

CR 8.5 to 1 ross pistons, at 35 psi he was staring to run out of fuel, possibly fuel pump. With the new 1.06 AR exhaust housing it holds high boost well. Broke the rear end at the track last weekend (4bolt). Hopefuly we will have some new numbers after this weekend.

 

[Blizz92tsi]

I've got a question about machining 1g rods. This isn't very advanced by the way. Should any reputable machine shop be able to polish and shotpeen your set of rods? If so how much does this process cost? Also is there a difference between 1g rods besides if they came out of a six bolt or seven bolt? Thanks for tollerating my not so advanced questions, but I've never really researched the topic before. I'd seriously look into a 1g rod/ 2g piston combo if I had to redo my engine. It seems like that set up would be more than enough for my goals.

 

[Suparata]

Like I said before a set of Shotpeened 1G Rods with the Big End reconditioned using ARP rod bolts and the Small End Full-Floated for Forged pistons (like Wiseco or other manufacturer) is by far the most cost effective thing to do. 2nd Gen pistons are a thing from the past when High Quality pistons were not available at reasonable prices but things have changed.
You are probably looking at around $200 for a set of stock rods done right this way plus the cost of the pistons.
Mitch.

 

[HybriDSM]

Does anyone have any pratical experience with the Manley rods. I've been in communication with SBR and I am basically 100% sure I am going with the Manley rods, but wanted to check one final time if anyone knows anything about them other than what I could find searching here, over at the other DSM site and NABR. I am familiar with Manley and their high level of workmanship and my machine shop swears by them.

Just a question to throw out since they are fairly new. The guys over at SBR said they have 3 cars already running with them with no issues yet, but I just wanted to check.

I realize that to a degree that I am a guinea pig of sorts for these "new" DSM rods, but with Manley's success with other manufacturers, I'm not worried about it at all. Never hurts to ask though.

 

[Keaka26]

For the record, I run stock 1g rods with ARP rod bolts with Ross pistons. Should be fine for more that 400 horses.

Also, I heard that buschur did like 700hp on a stock block. It didnt last long, but it did hold together for a while.

I cant even see 1% of people exceeding the the power that an eagle rod can hold. Tons of people out there go with like crowers and are making like 350 horses. So unnecessary.

 

[ryanjay21]

"Eagle Rods. Don't let the price of these chromoly rods fool you they will withstand a beating. We used these rods in our SCC Ultimate street car challenge DSM."

If I'm not mistaken Dan Cokic, owner of Pruven Performance, put down 527whp and ran an 11.16 1/4 in SCC Ultimate Street Car Challenge, an that was last year. That was with Eagle rods, and that car is, well was his daily driver, until he bought an EVO.

 

[KeltonDSMer]

Ryan at RMDSM had an Eagle rod snap when he made mid500whp. There are manufactoring flaws sometimes though, so I don't know what that means.

 

[myblack98gst]

1g rod 2g piston is capable of 500 crank HP - a local guy here has had several motors with this combo and all have exceeded the 400+ hp mark at the wheels. He currentyl has a all stock motor 1g FWD with injectors and a small 16g that is running a 8.15 @ 90mph 1/8 on 15psi! it all comes down to how good of a tune it has, and how well the motor was assembled.

the machine shop has EVERYTHING to do with the sucess of a motor. I had my 1g rods machined for 2g pistons, ARP installed and re-conditioned big end. the motor now has 3,000 miles on it and has been through 4 sets of rod bearings!!!!! ( I am only replacing them till I save enough money for a new motor). I checked the main culprit yesterday and the cap was so far off I could not spin it around the journal with a bearing installed. the rod end was fine though.

Moral of the story is make sure everything is done right the first time

 

[Suparata]

What do you mean the "rod was fine" if you say that it doesn't turn with the bearings installed? Why do you even put it together if the big-end is not sized correctly?
How do you decide when is the time to replace the rod bearings and how do they look when you take them out? Any pictures?
I am very confused and very interested to get to the end of this story!
Care to tell more?
Mitch.