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The 14b Drag Race Discussion Thread

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No, i understood that.. The only difference in resignation and quitting is a notice. You can't build a setup that allows you to do both road racing and drag racing?

Until then, I'll shut you up with my driving
What was this about? So i can better understand..
 
No, i understood that.. The only difference in resignation and quitting is a notice. You can't build a setup that allows you to do both road racing and drag racing?


What was this about? So i can better understand..

I don't WANT to drag race anymore.

Remember I challenged you to a run down the 1/4 mile?

Well, now we can do it at the roadcourse too!
 
I don't WANT to drag race anymore.

Remember I challenged you to a run down the 1/4 mile?

Well, now we can do it at the roadcourse too!

Im sure we'll all let you come back from resignation to do another drag race. As for me and road racing -- You'll be waiting around awhile. Maybe in a few years i'll look into running a titanium rod motor. I still don't have 2nd gear, but im still running the car this year. I don't have enough fuel to run my evo316g, so ill just put the 14b back on. I may not even have enough fuel to run e98 with the 14b. This season will just be a base line to show progress in 2012. As im building my aluminum rod motor ill take a great amount of time in weighing every piece for comparison.

As you've become growingly less pleased by drag racing. I've been becoming less pleased with the 4g63 platform. The parts i want to see here in the platform just won't ever come. Unless you have the money to pay someone to draw them up in cad/cam, and it will still cost a fortune for a one-of piece. I also get tired of people asking for non fuctional carbon fiber pieces when i've asked a million times for a undertray.
 
Fun stuff...

Anyways, got this picture today, should be on their way soon. I've pulled my old spare subframe out and started working on getting the old bushings out. Not fun without a torch, going to have to go find one. Either way I'll get it cleaned up and put these in (rear subframe and mustache brace for those wondering). Should help with some of the slop back there as the ones on my car are completely shot.

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First set made, call it homebrew but they're poly urethane. Alot cheaper for me then the only other alternative for these out right now. Plus these keep the stock metal sleeve inside, apparently the others don't. He also made a set out of delrin (at least I think it was delrin) but using them on his own car he thinks they're a bit too stiff so he made these up.
 

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Phil, if you're done with drag, how much for your rims and tires? :)

One more visit to the strip this year.....then yeah, I will probably sell the slicks. Not yet though....wheels were $356 and slicks were over $600. If and when the time comes I'd let em go for $600.
 
That would be a steal, too bad I'm not local or I'd take em :D
Where did you get the wheels for 356? Everywhere I seem to find them are 400ish. It's a decently light wheel for the price and you know how budget conscious we all are, but I'd prefer to not go black.
 
That would be a steal, too bad I'm not local or I'd take em :D
Where did you get the wheels for 356? Everywhere I seem to find them are 400ish. It's a decently light wheel for the price and you know how budget conscious we all are, but I'd prefer to not go black.

Discount Tire Direct. I've done alot of business with them over the years and so they hook me up here and there....pretty good deal. Was about to grab another set of wheels/tires for the VR4 but then I decided to sell it instead. If it doesn't sell, I'm sure I'll slap some wheels on it at some point.

Honestly, I never weighed a wheel before the slicks went on....I'm guessing 16 lbs. though...
 
Yeah...but wheel weights are like air intake and exhaust systems. If you can get one of them to make 12hp from bolting it on a car, you can advertise it...although, it might realistically only pick up 7hp. So they might have made one wheel a little thinner, with no lip that weighed 14lb, so now they can advertise it at that weight.

I have JEGs wheels for my front slicks. They are about the same weight...around 16-17lb. With the slicks, I think they are around 33-34lb which isn't too bad. Of course, that's a 15" wheel. I would love to get that down under 30lb, but that's going to be tough without spending $600+ on 2 wheels.
 
Nope. I don't really feel like dropping anymore money on another set of wheels and slicks.

I pulled my hatch a couple days ago. With the glass and support rods, it weighed in at 49lb. Pretty freakin' heavy. I'm thinking with fiberglass and lexan, there's at least 20-25lb to lose...maybe even more.
 
Anyone know how much weight can be removed by gutting the doors and cutting out the impact bar on the door? I'm going to do it, just curious how much weight loss there is.
 
The door bars should weigh about 15lbs. give or take. From there you can remove another 5-10 depending on how much metal you want to cut out. I removed 20lbs from my set of doors when I did it on the old car, later when I was going to add lexan I removed another 5 from getting rid of all the excess metal. Never did end up with the lexan and that car got scrapped :(

With the doors on this car I only plan on removing the bars and a little extra since I won't be doing lexan as I still drive the car on the street and want the windows to work. Also that 20lbs included the motors on the old doors and mirrors I believe.
 
My mirrors and motors are gone. I am going to keep the glass for now, but I'm going to leave enough metal on the top side of the door to attach a bracket to hold the glass up in the window and in place. If it's a hot day and I want to drive around on the street, I can pull the brackets and slide the window right out. Only place I'll be driving the car on the streets will probably be to cruise or to car meets. So I'm not worried about going out without windows.

Thanks for the info. I'm planning to cut quite a bit out of the doors except to fit brackets for the glass. Got some plans to do a little other weight removal that is normally "outside the box" of what most would do as well...but have to wait and see how it turns out!
 
My mirrors and motors are gone. I am going to keep the glass for now, but I'm going to leave enough metal on the top side of the door to attach a bracket to hold the glass up in the window and in place. If it's a hot day and I want to drive around on the street, I can pull the brackets and slide the window right out. Only place I'll be driving the car on the streets will probably be to cruise or to car meets. So I'm not worried about going out without windows.

Thanks for the info. I'm planning to cut quite a bit out of the doors except to fit brackets for the glass. Got some plans to do a little other weight removal that is normally "outside the box" of what most would do as well...but have to wait and see how it turns out!

I'll get a pic as soon as I can to show you how easy it is to make a bracket to hold the windows up......
 
Sweet. Thanks Phil! I'm thinking just an "L" bracket with some type of foam or rubber material so the glass is sitting on something soft instead of on metal!
 
Sweet. Thanks Phil! I'm thinking just an "L" bracket with some type of foam or rubber material so the glass is sitting on something soft instead of on metal!

No prob! I was able to get a couple pics of my hatch yesterday, oh, and it weighed in at 15 lbs, so not super light, but I have some aluminum strips to help support the window mounting area, so that adds a tad. I will hopefully get the area around the car cleared(winter storage area for crap! LOL) and get some door shots for you today or tomorrow, then I'll post those up too.
 
15lbs! That's still 35lbs. lighter then stock! I'd take that all day :rocks:

Suspension should be on the way, and the new bushings, can't wait to get them and get the car running for spring again. I'm starting to really miss it and with some mid 50s this week it'd be a good time to get this stuff done! I'm also going to get the carpeting this week and try to get the interior done so its ready to go, then we'll work on pulling the doors and gutting them if I have time. NLTS wiring should be done as well. My local track just sent me their schedule for 2011 :hellyeah:
 
I just cut the interior skin off my driver door and pulled the door to cut out the crash bar. The skin portion weighed in at 4lb. I'm guessing the crash bar will weigh in at a little more. I've already drilled the spot welds and cut the part that attaches the bar to the skin. Just have to cut the bar in half to pull it out.

I also finished pulling up the sound deadening under the driver and passenger seats as well as under the rear seat. That along with the dirt I scraped out of my fenders weighed in at 21lb!!! And I still have sound deadening on the firewall and in the trunk. Not sure if I will pull the deadening out of the trunk due to some other plans later on.
 
Hey sbstar i was trying to find your posts about the difference in brake weights between the base model and the gsx. Do you happen to remember that info off hand?

1g small calipers 12lbs. per side...

1g big brake twin piston calipers 14lbs. per side...

1gb rear calipers 8-9lbs.

1gb rear rotor 8lbs.

Front big brake rotor 13lbs.

1g single piston rotors 10lbs.

There ya go :thumb:

Partsweights - DsmWiki
 
Thats it thanks. Its time for a brake job. So i figure i'll go with the factory "drag" kit haha. thanks. Definitely bookmarking that link also.

Edit: So theres about 5lbs per corner in the front, but not much change in the rears, correct?
 
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