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The 14b Drag Race Discussion Thread

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Did some testing today on my fuel system...and found out some pretty cool information. I am running a walbro 400lph pump, 865cc injectors, and the stock lines, rail and regulator. The tune pneumo did on the car was very solid, but the idle was rough...due to overrun of fuel by the fuel pump on the stock regulator. So I bought an adjustable regulator. Even at 43psi of base pressure, the car was running a bit lean. So I made a setup tonight to test the fuel pressure with the stock regulator and a single walbro 400lph pump. 50-51psi is what I got. That's right...50psi of base pressure. The pump is great...but the stock fpr just can't handle it!
 
Did some testing today on my fuel system...and found out some pretty cool information. I am running a walbro 400lph pump, 865cc injectors, and the stock lines, rail and regulator. The tune pneumo did on the car was very solid, but the idle was rough...due to overrun of fuel by the fuel pump on the stock regulator. So I bought an adjustable regulator. Even at 43psi of base pressure, the car was running a bit lean. So I made a setup tonight to test the fuel pressure with the stock regulator and a single walbro 400lph pump. 50-51psi is what I got. That's right...50psi of base pressure. The pump is great...but the stock fpr just can't handle it!

Do you think that a 400lph pump and 865cc injectors will benefit the 14b?

My stock fuelpump/sending unit kicked the bucket. I replaced with a unit from a 97' 3000GT VR4(all I could find at the local pick-N-pull). It was pretty much a drop in swap. Going off RRE flow charts for 12 volt flow(I have not done a rewire yet) the stocker flowed 100LPH while the VR4 unit flows 180. I'm sure if I rewire the VR4 unit will flow 200-210 easy at 14volts. But it seem like my car is not running as strong as it was with the stocker. Up until this point my whole fuel system was showroom stock. Stock fuel pump no rewire, stock 450s, stock rail, stock fpr. But now the more lph has seemed to have thrown my car off. I am in the process of tryingto fine tune it with my Maf-T, just like I did with my stocker. Which when fine tuned(the stock system) netted me 12.1 with 112 in the tank and a 12.39 on pump.

Just wondering if I need to alter something with the new additional lph flowing now? Like new larger injectors.
 
The injectors are fine if your IDC is still under 100%, or even if it's over 100% but AFR is where you want it. It's unlikely that that pump is over running the regulator, rewired or not. At least not enough to matter. I recall 190 pumps rewired causing a slight over run, but the trims take it up. If you're anal about the trims being dead on you'll want to get a regulator. Once you get to a 255 it's even more necessary and on a 2g you'll also need to upgrade the return line as well.
 
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Do you think that a 400lph pump and 865cc injectors will benefit the 14b?

Is the pump overkill? Yes.

Are the injectors overkill? No, not considering I'll eventually be going E85.

I went with the pump because it flows way more than a 255lph pump, is easier to install than twin 255lph pumps and costs less than twin 255lph pumps. My turbo route right now is 14b to E316g to 5858 Precision. On the 5858, this pump will probably still be enough flow for that turbo, which is why I chose it. This pump should last me a very long time unless the pump itself stops working. For power potential, it's awesome. And if I wanted to go with race gas instead of E85, I could probably push the motor to it's breaking point before I run out of race gas (it's a built motor).
 
Hey guys, looking for a little input from the fwd guys. Trying to better my 11.85@ 121 from last year and having some drivetrain issues. Ive freshened up the rings and bearings and fixed a few little issues( one being a crack in the back of the endtank on my core) and the car is makeing a significant amount more torque. My issue now is with how hard that torque hits keeping the drivetrain together. Im at a loss. The car is really not fun to drive on street tires and ive upped the size of my slicks to a set of 24.5 x8 m and h tires. This car is my daily and im not trying to pull too many funds away from my track car. Im just not to familier with fwd. Just wanted to know of any tricks i havent thought of. Any input is helpful at this point.... thank you
 
Hey guys, looking for a little input from the fwd guys. Trying to better my 11.85@ 121 from last year and having some drivetrain issues. Ive freshened up the rings and bearings and fixed a few little issues( one being a crack in the back of the endtank on my core) and the car is makeing a significant amount more torque. My issue now is with how hard that torque hits keeping the drivetrain together. Im at a loss. The car is really not fun to drive on street tires and ive upped the size of my slicks to a set of 24.5 x8 m and h tires. This car is my daily and im not trying to pull too many funds away from my track car. Im just not to familier with fwd. Just wanted to know of any tricks i havent thought of. Any input is helpful at this point.... thank you

Is this on a 14b? You might want to check out the FWD thread, http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drag-strip/196598-where-fwds-53.html#post152912570. FWD is something I'm trying to master too.
 
Haha yes it is. Wouldnt be posting here otherwise.

Haha, ok. I was just making sure cause that is a heck of a MPH. Nitrous? You should post your time on DSMtimes.org. You would be in 10th place under 14b's and you would have the highest MPH of everyone except Joe Bucci. What is your 14b setup?

I've never used a full slick yet, I'm trying to get the hang of my Hoosier DR's, so I don't think I'd be much help to you. Starting with the basics: Do you have a stiff rear suspension? Boost by gear setup? Upgraded axles? What kind of clutch? Poly/metal mounts (motor and suspension)?
 
The injectors are fine if your IDC is still under 100%, or even if it's over 100% but AFR is where you want it. It's unlikely that that pump is over running the regulator, rewired or not. At least not enough to matter. I recall 190 pumps rewired causing a slight over run, but the trims take it up. If you're anal about the trims being dead on you'll want to get a regulator. Once you get to a 255 it's even more necessary and on a 2g you'll also need to upgrade the return line as well.

Thanks for the info. Exactly what I was looking for. Just got to keep plugging away at the tuning.
 
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Made some progress on my fortyn bee..

Started out with this
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Did this to it
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Than this
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The aftermath of it all
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The final thing to do before droping the engine is to rebuild the little turbo, seems it developed too much in-out play
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Looks incredible! When are you expecting to have it on the track?

Thanks man! As much as, i would love to see that bad boy at the track, realistically speaking it probably won't happen any time soon ROFL but i'm just doing the best i can while having fun with it

The engine is going to be droped in a full street car though (not just streetable) so i wouldn't really expect any record breaking times anyways
 
What kind of engine do you think you need to set 14b record? :) In theory, 10 or 11 to 1 should be best, in reality, most people do it on a very reasonable compression (8-9 to 1). Much it comes down to weight, a true street car might have a hard time touching the record because of weight, but not because of the engine.

Speaking of weight, I have been working hard on taking it off my Summit, looks like I can get it down to 2700lbs (just the van), which is only 100 lbs or so heavier than Green Machine used to be. With better tuning and tires, I see no reason why I couldn't improve on my previous best time :).
 
Weighed my Laser today with some nice digital scales. I was expecting around 2300lb...ended up weighing in at 2169lb in race trim without me in it. Pretty good considering I haven't really done any 'hacking' on the car yet. I cut the hood bracing and the rear strut support...otherwise, that's all that's been cut/drilled out. Can't wait to see what it runs, even though it's only on 91 octane right now!
 
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Yeah Dave, it is pretty light! Might be a slight explanation to the 3rd gear rolling traction issues! :D
 
2169? wow id love to see pics of what all is left. I just scored a set of doors from a 91 laser at harrys u pull it that were manual with manual mirrors and no speakers. I just trimmed down inner panel that the regulator bolts to and also removed the door beams.
 
I'll post a picture up shortly of the interior. The funny part is I know a lot more places to save weight. Here's a quick list of parts I could do to save weight and how much it should save.

Fiberglass hood - 15lb
Fiberglass hatch w/ lexan - 15lb
2-4 gallon fuel cell - 60lb
gut the doors (window motors, tracks, door bars, etc) - 30lb
headlight motors/linkage - 5lb
driver seat for aluminum seat - 25lb
clean/cut more random brackets, the dash and a few other things - 15-20lb
sunroof removed for sheetmetal - 5lb
power mirrors for mirror delete plates - 5lb

That would get the car down to at least 2k lb...possibly lower. But at that point, it's probably going to get another 100lb thrown back into it with a cage. But I know a few more things I can do to save weight that are a bit more in-depth
 
Already am. ;)

Eventually the car will be pushed pretty hard on the 14b. I'm only running 91 octane right now and am going to get the car completely sorted and hit the track to see what turns up. Eventually, I'll really strip it down and see if I can get close to Bucci's record.
 
Well the weightloss continues for my 14b Talon. Finished my driver's side door.

When I started the door weighed in at exactly 84.1 lbs. That is with my leather clad fully optioned door panel and speaker.

Healthy trimming and getting crazy about pulling everything not needed, even down to pulling apart the door locking mechanism and removing the sensors attached to it and the unecessary mechanicals.

So now with the factory side mirror and a lexan window the door weighs in at exactly 40.04 lbs.

I was very suprised by the significant weight savings. Now bear in mind my lexan window is locked in the up position. So no manual crank or nothing.

Now on to the passenger door.

Snapped my driver's side axle at the drag strip last night.

That sucks man. I know you will come back bigger, better, faster, stronger!
 
Do you happen to know how much of that weight was from the metal cut from the door, the window motor, track and door bar? Just curious because that's what I have to pull out of mine. Also, did you buy lexan and cut to fit or find a place that sells the lexan windows precut? If you have pics, I would love to see one of the lexan installed. I would like to do that as well.
 
Do you happen to know how much of that weight was from the metal cut from the door, the window motor, track and door bar? Just curious because that's what I have to pull out of mine. Also, did you buy lexan and cut to fit or find a place that sells the lexan windows precut? If you have pics, I would love to see one of the lexan installed. I would like to do that as well.

Just loaded a couple of photos. The first one shows everything I pulled from the doors. If you click on it and zoom should be able to everything in detail.

The full weight door was 84.1 lbs
The door panel is 7.48 lbs
The rest of the stuff, door guts weighed 36.58 lbs.

my current door with lexan window, factory side mirror 40.04 lbs.

The Lexan I just bought at Home Depot and cut myself. Got the 36" x 48" sheet, thats enough to do both windows. I will post a photo with the window later. It is out right now so I can tint it. My Home Depot did not have the smoked(bronze) Lexan I wanted.
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