That Block.

[VoltAction]

Getting on the highway is a special time for most DSM owners. Special in my case because as I upshifted from Third (at roughly 6,500 RPM) and let off the gas I heard a Horrendous knocking. I quickly shut the engine off and pulled onto the shoulder.

A day and a tow later, I began inspecting my engine.
1st stop Valve Cover.
The valve train appeared good. I noticed several of my lifters were totally ka-put. Laughing at my stupidity (I thought something serious was wrong) , I bought 16 3G lifters and installed them. Valve cover back on, started the motor. Still heard the ticking, but that was fine, Takes a minute to go away first start anyway right?
Then I heard a decidedly loud ping, and several clanking noises.

Looking under the car, I found Several whole, and rather large chunks of my block on the ground. That is the back story so to speak.

I purchased a short block for 150$ (if it's in as good of condition as I think it is. helluva deal!). It's dusty, and apparently pulled from a 1990 GSX. From what I can see, it has a balance shaft removal kit already installed, and needs an oil pan gasket pretty bad. Can anyone tell me how to really inspect this thing? the crank turns great, but beyond that I'm lost. I'll be sure to video log my inspection for better or for worse. It's just I've never had to work on the bottom end of a motor before, and I don't want to miss something stupid and waste valuable time and money swapping this thing in if it's broken.

 

[WES_393]

Pop the rod caps off (one at a time) and take a look at the bearings and crank journals. If the bearings have deep lines or scores, or are showing gold, they need to be replaced. If the crank has the same scores/lines, it will either need to be polished or cut. Same thing with the cylinders, if they have any serious scratches they will need to be honed or possibly bored. Regardless, don't just throw the engine in there. Some new bearings can go a long way for the life of the engine.

If you need a second pair of eyes, I'd be glad to help out. If you need a good machinist in the Springs, I recommend nobody but Michael down at Burts Auto Supply. The guy does amazing work and knows 4g63's like the back of his hand.

 

[curt-s]

Some words of advice: don't use an oil pan gasket. They're recommended from the factory to use RTV (gray is most popular). Just make sure the pan mating surface is straight and put a 3mm or so bead all the way around it. Lots of information on that subject already available.

 

[JDT]

Some words of advice: don't use an oil pan gasket. They're recommended from the factory to use RTV (gray is most popular). Just make sure the pan mating surface is straight and put a 3mm or so bead all the way around it. Lots of information on that subject already available.

Does this apply to 420a's too? I've been looking around but it's not really clear, I've mostly heard that a gasket kit is best for these motors.

 

[VoltAction]

Some updates :
Checked crank for any sort of play (Via prybar). Couldn't shake that thing loose to save my life.
Asked the previous owner the mileage. He said around 100,000.
Bought a 1,000lb capacity engine stand for 35$, it's brand new, and from the same guy who sold me the block. I need to find someone to borrow an engine crane from, got two possibles I still need to call.

Pop the rod caps off (one at a time) and take a look at the bearings and crank journals. If the bearings have deep lines or scores, or are showing gold, they need to be replaced. If the crank has the same scores/lines, it will either need to be polished or cut. Same thing with the cylinders, if they have any serious scratches they will need to be honed or possibly bored. Regardless, don't just throw the engine in there. Some new bearings can go a long way for the life of the engine.

I'll be taking pictures the second I get the short block on the stand, and video recording me popping the rod caps and inspecting the engine.
I'm also going out and getting some plasti gauge tommorow. I'll PM you my phone number, and I'm at best buy most every weekend. Thanks for the help.

Some words of advice: don't use an oil pan gasket. They're recommended from the factory to use RTV

I have no problem using RTV instead of a gasket, I would of never known. Thanks man.

I'll keep updating this thread as I move through this short block. Who knows, maybe some newb will need it one day.

 

[BogusSVO]

Get some pics up. Lets see what you have to work with.

 

[VoltAction]

It occured to as I was looking at info on the website that there seems to be a desparity. My horsepower goal is 260hp. Not the 500+hp everyone seems to be asking about. I need a headgasket good to around 300 horse, nothing special. I found a fel-pro gasket for pretty cheap. Here are the options I'm currently staring at. Found at rock auto

FEL-PRO Part # 9627PT - 24.79

VICTOR REINZ Part # 5875 - 28.79

DNJ ENGINE COMPONENTS Part # HG17 - 20.79

If all of these are junk, fine. Point me in the right direction, but so far, everything I've seen recommended is for someone with way higher aspirations and way more cash

 

[BogusSVO]

It occured to as I was looking at info on the website that there seems to be a desparity. My horsepower goal is 260hp. Not the 500+hp everyone seems to be asking about. I need a headgasket good to around 300 horse, nothing special. I found a fel-pro gasket for pretty cheap. Here are the options I'm currently staring at. Found at rock auto

FEL-PRO Part # 9627PT - 24.79 <-- This one

VICTOR REINZ Part # 5875 - 28.79

DNJ ENGINE COMPONENTS Part # HG17 - 20.79

If all of these are junk, fine. Point me in the right direction, but so far, everything I've seen recommended is for someone with way higher aspirations and way more cash

Get the Fel-Pro, Thats all you will need

 

[WES_393]

Agreed, Felpro and Mitsu headgaskets are of equal quality. My Mitsu gasket is holding well over 300hp with very high boost and timing on E85. Whether you want crazy power or not, it's never a good idea to cheap out.

I did get your PM, although I'm rarely out by Best Buy anymore. Few time I am, I'm with the guy who has the JDM Celica GT-Four. So we kinda keep to ourselves. Lol.

 

[VoltAction]

Took apart the short block today, I initially planned to plastigauge and check clearences, but what I saw was so bad I'm replacing it anyway. Here's the pics
dsm Photos by VoltAction | Photobucket
Also the crank surface that is covered by the caps has some grooves in it not gouges. Just smooth grooves. Is that normal?

 

[hazmat6135]

I'd have a machine shop check it but it doesnt look too bad. Might only need a polish on the crank and just replace the bearings. Take it to a shop and have them do as much of the bottom end as you can afford. How are the cylinders?

 

[greekgodchaos]

Some words of advice: don't use an oil pan gasket. They're recommended from the factory to use RTV (gray is most popular). Just make sure the pan mating surface is straight and put a 3mm or so bead all the way around it. Lots of information on that subject already available.

^^^ This, my oil pan is leaking thanks to this mistake I made, after I get back from CA, an oil change is in order with also dropping the pan off and redoing the gasket with RTV...learn from other peoples mistakes if you can

 

[VoltAction]

I'd have a machine shop check it but it doesnt look too bad. Might only need a polish on the crank and just replace the bearings. Take it to a shop and have them do as much of the bottom end as you can afford. How are the cylinders?

The cylinders are in perfect condition near as I can tell, how much will getting the crank done cost, on average anyway?

 

[WES_393]

Down at Burt's Auto Supply I had my crank inspected, cut, and cleaned for around $100. Just make sure to let the shop know you want the plugs removed and the crank journals scrubbed and flushed.

 

[VoltAction]

Down at Burt's Auto Supply I had my crank inspected, cut, and cleaned for around $100. Just make sure to let the shop know you want the plugs removed and the crank journals scrubbed and flushed.

I'm calling them tommorow morning, bad ass dude.
After some Googling, I found out the name of the bearings I need. Main crank bearings, and connecting rod bearings. I'm staring at the order screen on parts-Dino, do I need to order a different size bearing then standard? To be more clear. In the order screen I can select .01 over etc. What is that option for?

 

[WES_393]

You won't know what bearings until you get the crank polished or cut. If you get .25mm cut off the crank you need a .25mm oversized bearing. It's possible you have .25 cut off the mains and .50 cut off the rods, so you need two different sized sets of bearings. So just wait until you get the crank done.

 

[VoltAction]

Crank is currently being polished/cut. Journals and plugs are being done too.
120$ exactly. Hope it works out!

 

[BogusSVO]

Good start on the crank getting the balls out.

120 not bad, about the same it goes for around here.

 

[VoltAction]

Good start on the crank getting the balls out.

120 not bad, about the same it goes for around here.

yeah, should be done by the end of the week. The inspection yeilded
.50mm out of spec on the mains (its actually more. The mic didnt fit in the grooves all the way) and .25mm out of spec on the connecting rods.
The dude who did my inspection nearly shat a brick when I showed him my main bearings xD Glad I decided to inspect the block, thanks dudes.

Can't wait to get video of the reassembly. If all the parts are new, is there any point in plastigauging to check the clearences upon reassembly?

 

[BogusSVO]

Since you are getting a grind done, you may want to read this.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/431201-cut-crank-tested-theories.html

 

[VoltAction]

Since you are getting a grind done, you may want to read this.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/431201-cut-crank-tested-theories.html

That's awesome. I love how much information is availible for these cars.

 

[VoltAction]

Crank is almost done. Damn holidays.

I started removing things from the engine, can't wait to get this thing running again.
I will be taking the time to address some issues with the car as well.
My c.v. boots have been clacking for a while, and my transmission had been have real trouble going in to first. I'm saving the money for that project, and it will be done before the new motor gets installed. The goal here is to have no running issues for the next very long while. It will be really nice to finally fix all these dumb problems. Also I looked but couldn't find a better way to run all the vacuum lines so there not just sitting out all ugly like does such a guide exist, or will I be making one?