2G Testing, fuel assembly/gas gauge.

[miliman13]

Ok sounds good getting a new gauge. Just remember you may also have an intermittent bad passenger sender.

Really? I thought after all this it would be the drivers side that's bad.....


Since we have spent so much time, I might as well ask.

All of the aftermarket gauges are
( 0 ohms empty 90 ohms full )
Which is polar from the OEM resistance values.

Would changing polarity, remedy this?
Since it will show Full when it's actually empty?

 

[luv2rallye]

Well unless I'm reading it all wrong again, you did say you re-measured 89 ohms on that pin 1 (top right) of the drivers side harness side connector, correct? That goes directly through the passenger side sender to ground. So the passenger sender (and it's connections) are 89 ohms when the spec is 2-57 ohms. Maybe to be sure you should just unplug the passenger side connector and measure it's sender side resistance (Y-B pin 5 to B pin 6). Of course one of the Y-B's is the thermistor (pin 3) so you'll have to figure out the right Y-B (maybe swish the tank to make the float move).

No the gauges electrical polarity usually must be maintained. I'm still confused by their statement "0 ohms empty 90 ohms full" as to what they mean. Give me a link to it so I can see one. I'm sure they must work or they wouldn't be selling any.

 

[miliman13]

One of many examples


http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eB...2810&category=33674&pm=1&ds=0&t=1471752540770

 

[luv2rallye]

Interesting. Both that gauge and their recommended sender say 0 ohms empty and 90 ohms full so they are talking about the sender resistance. Of course it's for a GM car. Perhaps GM has the opposite empty/full case (empty is 0 ohms) where I know for a fact (and have measured it) DSM has full is 0 ohms at the senders (actually 2 ohms). In fact you can short the solid yellow to ground (which then is 0 ohms) and the gauge will read full. Perhaps you need to see if any gauges you can find work this way.

Either that or I'm having another brain freeze.
I just viewed a sender installation video for a GM car and it stated that they have higher resistance for full. They also said some cars have lower resistance for full so you have to pick the right gauge.

So you definitely need to get a gauge where full is 0 ohms and empty is 122 +/-10 ohms (as close as you can get it).

 

[brads]

There are converters you can buy that will adapt that 0-90 signal to match whatever target you need.

I ran into that years ago, adapting 0-90 senders to fit Ford and GM. It takes a fairly simple(for an electronics person) circuit to adapt it to be broadly correct. To make it mapped properly at all points, it pretty much needs a microprocessor to map the variations.

 

[luv2rallye]

Well if you want accuracy and willing to spend the money, Autometer makes one that's programmable so you can custom adjust it for your sender (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...503477_3287&pt=N0529&ppt=C0134#itemDetailTab_).

Autometer makes dozens of cheaper ones but none I've seen that match your sender. Most say "Available in 0-90 ohm (GM mid 60's to mid 90's), 0-30 ohm (early GM), 73-10 ohm (pre 90's Ford and Chrysler), 16-158 ohm (later model Fords) and 240-33 ohm (aftermarket senders such as the Auto Meter 3262)".

If you want cheap and accurate but don't mind the conversion, your digital ohmmeter may be the way to go like your post 32. However that one has a measuring range:0-199.9kΩ with minimum resolution:100Ω. You would have to get one like 0-200 ohms with minimum resolution 1 ohm (basically your multimeter on resistance setting).

Or you go get another working gauge cluster at a junk yard.

 

[miliman13]

This one is 0-200 which is perfect.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D4251RI/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AFHAE9RJVUMB


And yes maybe a new gauge cluster would be easier, I have replaced it in the past.
But I customized my clustor and don't want to redo my work.

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Lastly if it was any other brand or model/color ect I would invest in a pricy gauge, but the ones available dont macth my one AEM gauges.
....

I can put the meter screen next to cigarette lighter.
Again not perfect but my cars HUD already had that space ship look anyway.




In my mind, you can disassemble the passenger side unit and reverse the arm thus it would read full at around 60 ohms and empty around 0 ohms..

A member just installed a new sender and gauge from autometer but the work involved goes even further than any other option discussed.

 

[miliman13]

See when I tested [ 1. ]/Infinity on the driver's sender I was sure that was the problem.... since any sensor the reads that resistance is usually bad... But now I'm thinking it is just the cluster, maybe because I installed those face plates..

The car in storage for so long ...

 

[luv2rallye]

This one is 0-200 which is perfect.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D4251RI/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AFHAE9RJVUMB

Ya that one should probably work. It says operating voltage is AC/DC 8-12V and your car when running is normally 14.4V (and can get to 15-16 depending on battery condition), but the first reviewer says he put it on his motorcycle and claims it works. Even if it burns out, it's so cheap that it's worth the try.

In my mind, you can disassemble the passenger side unit and reverse the arm thus it would read full at around 60 ohms and empty around 0 ohms..

I'm assuming you mean for the "reversed" range gauges. In theory yes. In practice there's usually some physical reason why that can't be done (mounting studs then in wrong position, sometimes there are no longer proper "stop" positions on the arm, arm just doesn't mount properly coming in the other side, etc). You also would then have to do the other side too.

 

[brads]

Have you tried using a few resistors to just check the gauge?

 

[miliman13]

Have you tried using a few resistors to just check the gauge?

No.. good idea I actually have A few in my back pack from class.
Any recommendation on were to tap the resistor into.


These are a more attractive option:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001...fuel+gauge&dpPl=1&dpID=51LqeNO+WXL&ref=plSrch


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B...fuel+gauge&dpPl=1&dpID=41puqamvBDL&ref=plSrch

 

[brads]

You could start out plugging the resistor in at the harness connector at the tank. That will test both the gauge and the wiring back to the tank. If it doesn't read right, then you could try to connect the resistor somewhere closer to the dash, to bypass most of the wiring.

 

[miliman13]

Update*****
I installed a gauge cluster off a 97 dodge avenger automatic .

Super cheap compared to a Gs or Rs eclipse .

Now i have a working gas gauge .

Lol.

Added some leds and it looks solid .
Everything else works too .

Also** the old gas gauge was super stiff, so that explains alot!!!


Side note* the Avengers check engine light is inverted so it looks cooler.

And i can use the ( over drive )
Light in the cluster for something cool later on.

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[miliman13]

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