tapping intake manifold for boost gauge

[weapon0x2]

Should it be done or is it more accurate to tap the fuel pressure regulater vacuum line instead.

Which is more accurate?

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

The signal for the fpr is coming from the intake manifold too, so I don't think it would matter if it were tee'd into the fpr line or running on it's own line from the manifold. Either way you will get nearly the same results and both ways would be accurate. I run mine tee'd into the fpr line and have never had a problem with it run that way.

 

[99gst_racer]

^^^ What he said.

Either one will work, and they'll yield the same result.

 

[El Cuervo]

True. Though I personally prefer individual lines for every part that requires a vacume or boost source instead of using tees. I will be tapping into my intake for a dedicated boost source for my boost for my boost gauge and another for the map sensor when I convert to speed density.

 

[weapon0x2]

What bolt on the intake manifold can I take out to tap into?

 

[99gst_racer]

You can drill a hole and tap it to 1/8" NPT anywhere. Although, if you look, you find a boss or two casted into the manifold. Those boss' are even better for drilling and tapping because of its thickness.

 

[Calan]

There's an undrilled boss a couple inches from the brake booster port that is an excellent spot...at least on the 1g's. Not sure if the 2g's have it or not.

 

[weapon0x2]

Thanks guys

 

[tsi87889095]

Yea on my 1g there was a plug threaded in to the side of the intake manifold to the right of the coil pack. I threaded mine in there and its the closes point to the firewall.

 

[the_mork]

Really? People are concerned enough about the accuracy of their boost gauge that they're going to tap their intake manifolds over just Ting into a line?

What type of boost gauge are you using that is so accurate that it matters? Much more important how do you expect to actually see that difference in accuracy when you're driving, and why would it even matter.

I'm generally fairly concerned with accuracy from my MAP sensor, but only to a medium degree. It honestly doesn't matter very much as long as your boost gauge/MAP sensor are reasonably accurate. I don't even look at my boost gauge anymore because I can hear/feel whether or not the car is acting normally. For some people that may not actually be an option because they don't use electronic boost control that makes noise when max boost is achieved but for me it works well. SD doesn't even really need accurate MAP placement so long as boost vs uncompensated airflow is consistent in that placement.

Cliff notes: Boost gauges only need to be generally accurate.