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t04b(v-trim) Bolt on Discussion

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Of course there's other options at higher prices, this is simply an alternative to the 16 or 20g.
 
1991gs-t said:
Fair enough.....I just think that for a turbo that size should'nt be just "sideways" to something that flows far less....

Not flaming on 1029TSG or mock his product, cause he seems like a great guy and all, I just think there are different routes people can take....simply an opinion :)
this is just a question but, what route can people take if you don't mind sharing.
 
spades_gsx said:
this is just a question but, what route can people take if you don't mind sharing.


I dont think its my position to give speciifics, especially in this thread cause it would look like im some sort of vendor promoting my product. All I can say is go with the proven stuff. If you real interested, PM me.
 
yo2001 said:
1.4 bar is not high boost nor race gas terrirory.


Not everyone here runs 1.4 bar on a daily car or on pump gas for that matter. Some of us that are cursed here in california cant do much with our piss water gas :cry:
 
you can at least run 1.2 bar right? still like 33lb/min
 
I certaintly wouldn't mind it if someone with actual, real, verifyable knowledge provided additional input here or in any other thread. Choosing the right turbo for you car is a big part of the DSM experience ;)

If the different manufacturers provided comparable numbers regarding intake and outlet size, or flow bench data, of their turbine housings, that would help a lot.

We already know about compressors from Garrett and MHI, etc. The main difference is the turbine housing now. I realize that this may be proprietary or compeititve information though.

I am currently looking up T3 and T4 flange specs to see what the outlet area is. No luck yet. I want to compare it with the 2.5"D of the Bullseye. If someone could measure the outlet size of the other turbine housings that would be a nice stat!
 
On a side note, thanks to L2R for swabbing the poop deck---
 
I bought this turbo and install kit, and am just wondering what hp range i will be in so i can make a good decision as to what clutch to buy.
 
David,

the turbo came today. I've got to say, I'm really happy as far as first impressions go.

I can't wait to get this thing on (along with everything else sitting in my house and garage :shhh: )

Thanks a lot,

Jesse
 
I did a quick measure of the compressor housing for a small 16g vs the to4B.

The s16g has a 1.85 ID inlet and goes to 1.35 ID outlet.
The to4b has a 2.7 ID inlet and goes to 1.8 ID outlet.

Does anyone know the specs on the b16g?
 

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This doesn't make any sense. plain and simple. there are many statements in this thread that the to4b outflows and makes more power than the e16g at lower boost. If the BONE STOCK 4g63 outflows this turbo, then it certaintly outflows the e16g! common sense please.

The mystery is where you get your opinion.

Why do you say the turbo needs race gas? Do you have any facts to back this up ? Did you compare the 4g63 flow to the comp map?

Granted, the turbo is a high boost design, but cut off everything above 15 psi and you still beat the evo16g. Now you wanna go to the track with some octane? Who you gonna call?
My target boost is going to be 20psi street, and 24 psi track days. That will be on 100 octane. So if your limited by 91 craptane, make sure that you let everyone know THATs the reason you can't use the turbo. Sound good?

1991gs-t said:
plain and simple?? It sux :| this thing would probaby flow great on a honda, but a BONE STOCK dsm head outflows this particular turbo and never has it anywhere near its effeciency range under any boost pressure....

I dont think its a mystery as to why people dont make power untill 15lbs or higher....This turbo needs to be on race gas/hight boost to make any power on our cars.

Not mocking garrett cause they make great turbos, but this specific one just doest cut it.

My 2 cents
 
Thanks Jesse. As far as I know the Big 16g housing is the same as the small, just contains a larger wheel.
 
MaroonclipseGST said:
I bought this turbo and install kit, and am just wondering what hp range i will be in so i can make a good decision as to what clutch to buy.
An ACT 2100 or 2600 will work. I've used both and have the 2600 now because it offers a good deal more hold for a small extra investment. Mark
 
1991gs-t said:
Not everyone here runs 1.4 bar on a daily car or on pump gas for that matter. Some of us that are cursed here in california cant do much with our piss water gas :cry:


1.4 bar is only about 20psi.

I ran 20psi all day on my L2R and 50-trim with 91 Arizona piss water.
 
So do I.

There are a lot more variables than octane *cough*tuning*cough* that determine what boost you can run without knock.

Charge temp, CC conditions, spark temp range, etc.

L2RTSiAWD said:
1.4 bar is only about 20psi.

I ran 20psi all day on my L2R and 50-trim with 91 Arizona piss water.
 
Guys, My H3 has been on the car with no major issues. I swapped this turbo with an e16 (running 17-18psi) which was on the car prior to the swap. The spool is surprisingly 16Gish. Although it sounds different on the spool up. My problem is the BOV flutter I know have across the entire range. I have tried routing the p side directly to the actuator with the same results. Dave's opinion is the amount of air flow has changed going past the BOV and rate at which this happens doesnt allow enough time for the pressure to equalize on the top side of the bov. As a result fluttering at different psi levels.
Optons
Compressor surge?
Better spring on a differnent BOV (i.e, Tial).
Crush the BOV (have concerns since I have no metering device).
I thought it could have been the actuator arm but that wouldnt affect the entire range.

Any ideas to bounce around before I make a $300 plunge on a BOV. That my not be the total issue. Although I hope it is....

Emmanuel
 
Sure -

First, you mention an actuator. That is part of the wastegate. Not sure what you are referring to by that?.

To fix the BOV, if it is leaking, search for a thread on that and vacuum sources. One guy reccommended to take the vacuum source off the throttle body.

Another idea is to replace it with a buddies. BOVs wear out. You may only need a new one ($95).

Q: How did you mount the stock BOV on a H3? You ARE using 2"+ IC piping, right? The stock BOV section is mighty restrictive. Post a pic.

You should probably start a topic in the problem forum.

boostcreep said:
Any ideas to bounce around before I make a $300 plunge on a BOV. That my not be the total issue. Although I hope it is....

Emmanuel
 
I agree, the new 1G BOV should fix the problem. The BOV kit from Dejon Tool would be a nice addition.
 
Now that I think of it, it might be comp surge. If you are restricting the airflow with stock IC piping, that would tend to push the comp into the surge area.

Might need bigger, less restrictive intake. Please describe your intake.
 
The intake was the first upgrade (damn near 4 years ago) to Buschur hard pipe, 3" exhaust no cat..... I thought about compressor surge too but I'm not sold on that.
What type bov are you using? My 1Gen BOV is only 3 yrs old. Also, the leak stop kit is only good for above 15 psi. That is not my total problem only part. So, it will fix anything above but not the low end. Either way I think the BOV is about to be replaced. I'm wanting one that will allow for more room if I decide to upgrade further. I'd preferr the opinions of individuals on this thread than on other sources since it applies to the same setup in question.

Emmanuel
 
Anyone running the composite 7cm gasket sold by BEP for their turbo?
Mine blew out recently in two places.
It sealed perfectly before that, however.


All of a sudden, it sounded like my external wastegate wasn't closing. Checked the hood and could smell the exhaust.
 
L2RTSiAWD said:
1.4 bar is only about 20psi.

I ran 20psi all day on my L2R and 50-trim with 91 Arizona piss water.


You ran 20psi daily on a 7bolt with stock headstuds?
 
The solution to the gasket failure we found was a re-torque after a few heat cycles. We would be glad to send you a new one.
 
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