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t04b(v-trim) Bolt on Discussion

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No problem. :D

I have a few questions if you wouldn't mind answering them here for everyone else to see (in case it might help them with their installs).

Do you have any torque figures for any of the following?:
- Oil return flange bolts to CHRA
- Exhaust manifold to turbo bolts
- Turbine/compressor housing bolts
- Wastegate flapper (the black hex bolt)

Do you recommend that teflon tape be used on the NPT fittings (both oil feed fittings, oil return hose to flange)? I'm assuming yes, but just want to be sure.

Thanks for any info!
 
I hadto cut my stock fan ALOT I cut off from the middle all the way the rest around, And also had to cut the blades alot so they dont smash my ic piping. I plan on getting a slimfan, But for now, This is working without any problems. The waste gate doesnt hit the fan though, I'm almost positive. I just hadto cut for the ic pipe reason if i can remember, Either way, It works now.
 

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nazthug said:
I got the SBR manifold that has the slightly thicker flange, will it push the actuator into the fans? Or how much clearence is there from the actuator to the fans? Any trimming?

I haven't tried test-fitting it yet, but it's going to be close. The actuator doesn't seem to be the problem, though - the outlet coupler and my stock LICP is going to be the problem, if there is one.

If anyone has been having a problem installing the 90* elbow into the LICP, I'm with you there. It's nearly impossible to do. I ended up cutting the reinforcement fiber off of the hose in that area to let it stretch a bit more, and ground down the elbow lip. I think I was able to cram it in there enough to keep it from blowing off, but time will tell. I'm going to pressure test it at the first available opportunity.

If you're using the stock LICP like me, you'll want to take it off the SMIC and cut it down to fit on that end. Otherwise, pressing the LICP down (compared to the stock location) puts a large kink in that hose. With the 90* elbow stuffed in, it reaches the compressor outlet just fine. We'll see if the fan can be crammed in there as well. :D
 
i dont think im going to worry much about the IC piping

I have a JR FMIC kit that takes the lower IC pipe and throws it to the drivers side, he says it clears 50trims kits(they have one on their shop car) so it should clear with this t04b

It just goes down, and straight 90* to the driver side

I think the guys who are trying to run it to the stock location might have problems

So i think im only worried about hte wastegate actuator getting in the way, as long as i can position the turbo to shoot straight down and not get in the way, the piping should all fit up with stock fans, at least according to JR
 
Please do not use Teflon tape, paste is optional.


This is straight out of the Garrett service manual.

Compressor Housing bolts are 12.88 NM
Turbine housing bolts are 15.59 NM

The conversion is 1 NM = 0.7376 lb/ft

Nick will have to chime in on the oil drain specs. Stock specs on the manifold bolts are fine.
 
Here's a picture of the new flanges, they should fit better than the original ones.
 

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1029TSG said:
Compressor Housing bolts are 12.88 NM
Turbine housing bolts are 15.59 NM

The conversion is 1 NM = 0.7376 lb/ft

Nick will have to chime in on the oil drain specs. Stock specs on the manifold bolts are fine.

Holy crap, I'm glad I asked. I was going to torque them down to about twice that. Last question, I promise: is any thread sealer recommended for those bolts?

(The turbine housing/compressor housing bolts.)

Thanks for all the help.
 
You can actually get away with quite a bit more torque on the turbine side, its the compressor side that will likely strip out the threads. No thread sealer but we highly recommend "Anti-seize" on all turbine bolts
 
1029TSG said:
You can actually get away with quite a bit more torque on the turbine side, its the compressor side that will likely strip out the threads. No thread sealer but we highly recommend "Anti-seize" on all turbine bolts

Yeah, I imagine the cast iron turbine housing will hold up a bit better than the cast aluminum compressor housing.

I remember someone quoting one time that cast aluminum is rated slightly stronger than molded plastic. :D
 
Heres a picture of the TO4B Vtrim(oil cooled only) in my car with slim fans for anyone wondering what it looks like. I haven't been able to enjoy the turbo yet because of some other problems that need to be looked at first. Tommorow am replacing my upper intercooler pipe because the dejon one i have the flance on the TB cracked so i was pist about that. I also have to replace the 1g TB because of problems with idle surge. Then i have to figure out why am spooling 15psi by 5,000 LOL am sure dave knows about this. On another note dave when you tighten the wastegate actuator is it easy to tighten it or kinda hard. Because on mine i have to use alot of muscle to tighten it. If all else fails am paying a visit to your shop! :p The one thing i have to do is get that slowboy manifold to push out the turbo a bit more since its kinda a pain when putting on the intake since it sorta hits the lower radiator hose. But no complains so far the turbo pulls so hard above 5k. I can't wait to ge things tuned and running right

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Am bored so heres so more pics for people to look at at. :)

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It looks like the 2G has slightly more room between the radiator and the turbo than the 1G... at least, more room than mine with a 2G manifold on, if that makes a difference in positioning.

Is the compressor housing rotatable? Meaning, if I loosen up the bolts on the compressor housing, can I point it more downward? Currently, it somewhat points toward my radiator.

I also am having minor issues with the turbo being right up against the lower radiator hose. My intake coupler sits right on it, actually. I can angle it slightly and fit the tube in, though.
 
I'm looking to install my T04B this weekend. Anyone had issues with the radiator fan so close to the turbo? Can you reuse the heatshield?
 
boostcreep said:
I'm looking to install my T04B this weekend. Anyone had issues with the radiator fan so close to the turbo? Can you reuse the heatshield?


Although I don't have the t04b and have the t04E version (bullseye) instead, I can honestly say that I don't think the lower shield will fit. The upper shield can be put back, though. Also, although the compressor on mine was larger than the t04b, I managed to get the driver's fan to fit with a dremel.



Hopefully, I'll get my turbo back from David soon (needed to send it back), and I'll post my own review of the install and the turbo's performance (60 trim).


Reid








-
 
My reuse the heatshield i only thought of it as a warning thing. Mine has been off since i had switched to my second turbo(on 3rd turbo already). In my opinion i like looking at the manifold but thats just me :)
 
hmm..well it fits with slimline fans'


wonder how close it will come to the stock fans, that actuator sticks out some it looks

I hope it fits, i got it over the t04e because of the smaler compressor housing and hoping that it would fit without new fans


Should be all set for the install mid next week, i'll keep you guys updated as well as dyno numbers to follow :thumb:
 
I'm using Buschurracing's polished SS upper heat shield, amazing loos. Sill looking for a lower shield for my bullseye turbine houding. Mark
 
I'm not sure which ones have been set aside for you but I can check. Contact me directly tomorrow.
 
When I get around to working on the car again and get in my 7cm gasket and bolt from SBR, I'm going to try to hack the lower heatshield to fit to at least cover the hotside of the turbo and the O2 sensor housing to shield the fans from the heat. I'll let you all know how that goes.

If anyone is interested on making a Home Depot intake on a 1G with this turbo, let me know and I'll post pics of how I did it. I'm doing a 1G filter --> 2G MAF --> 3'' Intake --> T04B setup. Got the BOV return tube all figured out, and the return tube fits great with cutting the tube slightly. The stock emissions nipples were also accounted for (VC breather, evap cannister) although I might block the evap line off later.
 
I also made a 3" intake pipe from Lowes. I got two bends, And one 3" to 2" plastic piece to size down to my filter. I got 1 3" coupler and then one coupler for the top that hold the reducer part to the intake part. Nothing else was needed, Here is a little pic.
 

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Wish I was running the MAFT setup... would have been so much easier to make the intake. :D
 
Well on my car, the actuator barely touches the fan housing, so I hacked a bit away but not at all at the fan.

I really wish that my oil kit was the new one that is being sent out. They look nice as I don't like the way that mine fit.



Last night I raced a friends 5.0(very nice). He is a 5 speed with many bolt ons and gears(3.73's) and we started in the middle of my 3rd and went through 4th. Through third I pulled half a car, then hit full boost, shifted and pulled away VERY VERY HARD. Several cars.OMG He is very impressed and swears that my car is extremely fast becuase I pulled very hard.

He has driven my car and said that it doesn't "feel" as fast as it is due to the power band. He is a v8 of course with gears so he is extremely torqie. I have torque as well, just later.

I am on 15 lbs
stock exhaust and airbox till next week
with 193k miles and counting on the sthock engine!!!! :thumb:



-Gilbert
fastest, highest mileage eclipse around! AND ITS A 7 BOLT!!!!
 
Contact me directly and I will have Nick drop ship you one of the new flanges at no cost.
 
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