Suspension

[cojim99RS]

I got KYB GR-2 and adjs coil overs it seems that the control arms hit inside the fenders and i need to know whats the deal please help. I ve spend so much money and it still hits. Should i go with adjs shocks or what?

 

[x camaro owner]

we need a year of the car please suspensions are different.

 

[cojim99RS]

The year of my car is 1999 mits eclip RS PLS HElP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[x camaro owner]

i have kyg gr2's on mine to and they work fine after all they were oem to. so i would say something is up with your spring setting or you could just plain out be what i call bottoming out the strut if your springs are set low enough. i have heard of a problem like that with neons using drop springs on oem struts. i have a 1g and i don't know your cars suspension like the back of my hand. is there marks on the control arm or any place on them cuz if you are hitting it, it will leave some form of a mark. you might be hearing the strut bottoming out in its tube.

also how is your camber looking

 

[cojim99RS]

I got to check that out but not really i dont see any marks u may be right about the struts and i dont have camber yet.

 

[cojim99RS]

So do u think i should go with adsj struts like the KyB GXA or what? The sound that i get and is just the front . Is really nasty when i hit a small pot hole or bump. Hope fully is the strut. Something else if a buy the other struts u think is ok to leave the back ones alone or should i change it. I really dont have a problem with them.

 

[ACM]

Spring rates ?
How far have you dropped the car ?
More comprehensive detail needed.

GRs are stock-spec replacement units, intended for a completely stock application.
Used outside those parameters they will not function effectively.

Bottoming out in the manner you describe is common when lowered if the bumpstops are shortened/removed and spring rates are too low.

Charles

 

[DevilSperm]

no camber kit = fuct suspension...do it right or dont do it at all....look what i had to do ..this is on my 95 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39755

 

[cojim99RS]

OK here is the deal. I just bought this car 3 months ago and i barely know about cars specially this one. Im starting to get into cars to be honest.I got coil overs and the springs that i have are half as small as the stock springs. The rubber from my tire is about 2 inchs from the fender. So its low as hell thats the way i want it. The only thing i know is the spring had a sticker that said 500p. Know about bumpstops i ve seen how they look but my car dont have it and i dont even know what the hell they are for. Know when i first lower my car some stupid kid that got me drop zone coil overs installed them and he f-ck my shocks up i blew the sh-t. I dont even know what he got off my car on the original springs and struts. so thats the story (and thats the highest the car will go with the coil overs.)

 

[jtmcinder]

no camber kit = fuct suspension...do it right or dont do it at all....look what i had to do ..this is on my 95 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39755

Ripping the rubber part of the bushing that connects the knuckle to the upper A-arm has zero to do with whether you installed a camber kit after lowering. Here's why:

Most of our suspension bushings have two metal sleeves with rubber between them. The rubber is vulcanized to the sleeves and the sleeves are prevented from rotating by being clamped to the parts to which the bushing attaches. Therefore, motion at the bushed joint produces twisting of the rubber between the sleeves (see my recent post about the problems a guy is having getting his rear toe to stay where he aligned it). This twisting will, eventually, tear the rubber.

Now, when you lower a DSM, you are now asking some bushings to have a resting state that involves some twisting of the rubber. One of these bushings it that between the rear knuckle and the upper rear A-arm. So, now the bushings are being twisted all the time, instead of only when the wheel moves up or down. This will kill the bushings even faster.

The fix is quite simple. Have the car resting on the hubs and loosen and tighten all of your suspension bolts that involve sleeve-rubber-sleeve bushings. If you notice that any bolts are rust-welded to the inner sleeve during this process, replace that bushing.

Don't feel bad if you didn't know this. When my front lower LCAs were replaced under the recall, the dealership installed the new arms with the wheels at full droop (up on a frame lift). I had to show them how the job had to be done on a wheel lift with the weight of the car on the wheels as the inboard pick-up point was being tightened. Thankfully, this didn't cause a big stink. These guys had dreams of becoming a Five Star and were happy to have someone explain why that was the way it was supposed to be done.

Last comment: one advantage of aftermarket bushings is that the inner sleeve is not vulcanized to the bushing (and there usually is no outer sleeve). So, as long as you keep them lubed, you are not using all of your bushings as undamped springs anymore. Your springs are your springs and your bushings only hold the various pieces together ... every part doing its job and only its job.

- Jtoby

 

[DevilSperm]

the reason mine was so bad was because my tires were actually hitting the knuckle when i would go over a bump...it wore almost all the rubber off my tire and most of it was melted to my knuckle thats why i had to replace all that on mine...im smarter now, no more doing shit half assed...anyway, good post..ill keep that in mind for the future