Suggestions for removing manifold to turbo bolts

[Mauispyder]

I am attempting to replace turbo. The manifold to turbo bolts/stud appear as in photo, the one with the stud I was able to loosen the nut. The three that look like bolts I haven't been able to budge. I really don't want to break them. I've tried PB Blaster and worked on them after driving the car to heat everything up. I've used a breaker bar. I rounded the forward bolt. Any further suggestions?MAP gas torch? More PB blaster? Special tools?
Thanks everyone.

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[92AWDHX40]

Pull the the whole thing off and take it to a shop as a last resort.

 

[oneslowwdsm]

Unfortunate flaw design with the DSM are these damn bolts. The only thing that may or may not work is turning the car on and letting the manifold heat up and try while the bolts are hot. Worse case scenario is the heat will help you break them, then you can drill them out. Get some anti-sieze next time.

 

[Marchev]

Heat the area around the bolt threads with a gas torch plenty, then spray with pb blaster (it will smoke but dont be alarmed). Use a 6 wall socked with a breaker bar. Keep heating and spraying, it will come loose

 

[10's or bust]

More pb blaster and run time as mine were easy when I removed my manifold.

 

[Lou98GSX]

If you can run the car and get the manifold hot is your best bet . If they brake you will have to drill and tap.

 

[Mauispyder]

I'll keep working it then, also will buy a six wall socket or two, the only 14mm ones I had were "star".
Should I concentrate the torch at the bolt heads or further down the assembly? I removed the down pipe with some effort but I could put it back if the consensus is that it's better to heat tings up with driving instead of with torch.

 

[Type1DSMr]

I literally had to soak it in pb blaster for 3 days and use a big breaker bar to loosen my bolts for the first time. When you do get them out you should replace them with new oem bolts and conical washers with anti seize. Now they come out with ease while still being tight enough for a good seal.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

If you get them out run a tap through the holes to clean them and use nickle anti-sieze on all new bolts/nuts with two conical washers on each. If you have to disassemble again it won't give you any problems. Been there on a NEW BEP housing lately and its hard stainless. Trust me.

 

[donniekak]

Why are you super worried about breaking bolts off in a turbo you are replacing anyway?

 

[Spoolingaround]

+1 for anti seize. It only takes you one time of removing them to learn that.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

You can hit the top of them to try hit / shock them and that might help to loosen any dirt or rust inside but this does not always work, anither good trick is acetone and atf fluid! Its been proven to do wonders on.seized bolts and nuts!

I still cannot find the stud and nuts kit for these damm manifolds and its driving me crazy, normal studs just wont hold up too long from the heat! If yiu remember where you got yours from let me know

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

Use a mix of half synthetic ATF (mercon iv works well) and acetone. It's an amazing penetrating oil. Let lots of that soak in for a day and bang it a couple times with a hammer then take an impact to it.

 

[Mauispyder]

Thanks all for sharing your experiences with this. I'll try the tricks and report back.
To Donniekak, although I've had the car for a long time, I'm pretty noob at wrenching so I don't know the anatomy of the bolt in question. Specifically if it's threaded in the exhaust manifold, not sure if I'm capable of drilling out a broken bolt without destroying the exhaust manifold. Then again that's how I felt recently when I changed the timing belt. Thanks again.

 

[donniekak]

They are threaded into the turbo exhaust housing only. Breaking them will damage the manifold in no way. If you broke all four of them for some reason, it would have no impact on installing a new turbo. Your old turbo would just have four bolts broke off in it.

 

[Mauispyder]

Well I used all of the suggested tricks. I got three out of four out intact. I think if I ever need the T25 again I'll pay someone to remove the busted bolt.

 

[bling5tatus]

I can see from your picture in the first post that the OEM washers are installed improperly. The dots are supposed to face eachother and you need two of those washers per bolt. Make sure to use copper anti-seize the next time you install these and set the washers in the proper orientation and you won't have this issue again.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I may be wrong but haven't had any problems and I face my conical washers like this - () Please excuse me if I am wrong but I have not had any problems at all like that. I thought my dots all faced out.
Plus 2 on anti-seize!!!

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

1990TSIAWDTALON is correct. The conical washer dots should face away from one another. So, one the lower washer's dot should face the exhaust manifold. The upper washer's dot should face away from the exhaust manifold. The conical washer's should not face one another.

There are many recommendations for anti-sieze. Nickel-based anti-sieze works well as it is rated for much higher temperatures than regular anti-sieze is. There are also alternative anti-sieze compounds that do not contain heavy metals to those that are health conscious.

 

[Mauispyder]

I actually can't see any kind of resolution in my picture. But for the record, the exhaust to turbo bolts (and stud nut) haven't been touched since factory assembly. When I got them all off, the conical washers were all oriented correctly, ie dot sides facing outward away from each other.
I bought some nickel based anti seize, and new oem bolts and washers.
T25 was in perfect condition. Only thing I saw bad was a hairline crack in the factory manifold to turbo gasket.