Ho0ked
15+ Year Contributor
- 169
- 0
- May 8, 2005
-
Northern Va.,
Asia
Ok, so I made my boost leak tester from a coupler and a pvc endcap+ tire valve, as per this site.
I stick it directly on my turbo intake and use a bicycle pump.
I canot get ANY pressure to show on my boost gauge in car, no matter how fast I pump this thing.
2nd idea, I use a small cigargette lighter powered air pump.
In car boost gauge barely hits 5psi and drops soon as I shut off the pump
The car hits 24psi atm and holds about 21 to redline. SOMETIMES the car won't boost past 9psi unless I get off the gas and remash the pedal
Also the car is slugish to about 20 psi then comes on roaring and then stutters slighty at about 6k RPM.
Could really use some advice.
Thanks
SBR 2g Race core IC full 3" hard pipes.
SBR G50 Internally gated.
More in my profile.
I stick it directly on my turbo intake and use a bicycle pump.
I canot get ANY pressure to show on my boost gauge in car, no matter how fast I pump this thing.
2nd idea, I use a small cigargette lighter powered air pump.
In car boost gauge barely hits 5psi and drops soon as I shut off the pump
The car hits 24psi atm and holds about 21 to redline. SOMETIMES the car won't boost past 9psi unless I get off the gas and remash the pedal
Also the car is slugish to about 20 psi then comes on roaring and then stutters slighty at about 6k RPM.
Could really use some advice.
Thanks
SBR 2g Race core IC full 3" hard pipes.
SBR G50 Internally gated.
More in my profile.
. Minus the air compressor part.
can HEAR the weld leak, not the BISS or the top of the BoV leak
