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Stock timing belt capabilities?

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Foreverthuggin0417

Banned Member
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Aug 1, 2012
Nowhere, California
Hi, I was wondering how much hp could a stock timing belt withstand. Mine is very loose and I need to replace it. I was going to just get the oem one from o Reilly's for $50 bucks, but some people recommended to get the performance one. Any help or suggestions on what I should do is highly appreciated. Thank you
 
OEM, gates, house brand... Or if you have deep pockets and want something blue, a really expensive gates racing belt is available. Im running a gates(normal style) and its holding up fine.
 
ive even used the crappy 30 dollar ebay ones. they are lesser quality then the OEM and gates ones but i would not be afraid to put one on a stock cruiser, and run it 100,000 miles. if youve got ANY money in your engine spend the few extra bucks for a OEM or name brand.
 
Hi, I was wondering how much hp could a stock timing belt withstand. Mine is very loose and I need to replace it. I was going to just get the oem one from o Reilly's for $50 bucks, but some people recommended to get the performance one. Any help or suggestions on what I should do is highly appreciated. Thank you
Stock is good to 400 hp. Stage 2 blue gates belt is good till 600. Stage 3 purple hks belt is what you will need if you want to run with the big boys. That one is good till 1000. In all reality, the oem is good for whatever you will throw at it, they don't even cost that much, don't cheap out on the timing belt.
 
Stock is good to 400 hp. Stage 2 blue gates belt is good till 600. Stage 3 purple hks belt is what you will need if you want to run with the big boys. That one is good till 1000. In all reality, the oem is good for whatever you will throw at it, they don't even cost that much, don't cheap out on the timing belt.

UHhh..you couldn't be so wrong..i have seen many dsmers pushing 1000+ using oem mitsubishi belts for example jeff bush and so on. as far as HP wise its not like theres any stress on the timing belt when you push more power, only when your revving it up that high is when id be concerned,the belt is there to connect the crank to the cam gears.. either your pushing 300hp or 500 or 600 the cycle is still gonna stay the same and turn the same direction..
 
UHhh..you couldn't be so wrong..i have seen many dsmers pushing 1000+ using oem mitsubishi belts for example jeff bush and so on. as far as HP wise its not like theres any stress on the timing belt when you push more power, only when your revving it up that high is when id be concerned,the belt is there to connect the crank to the cam gears.. either your pushing 300hp or 500 or 600 the cycle is still gonna stay the same and turn the same direction..

Correct, there is not any extra stress on the belt when you make more horsepower, at really high rpm's yes, but power in general no. The belt drives the oil pump and cams, which will have the same load regardless.
 
UHhh..you couldn't be so wrong..i have seen many dsmers pushing 1000+ using oem mitsubishi belts for example jeff bush and so on. as far as HP wise its not like theres any stress on the timing belt when you push more power, only when your revving it up that high is when id be concerned,the belt is there to connect the crank to the cam gears.. either your pushing 300hp or 500 or 600 the cycle is still gonna stay the same and turn the same direction..
Agree, I was going off of his mod list. I don't think hes going to go 1000+ on his 16g.
 
its normal to have a little bit of slack if the car is lets say sitting over night, mine does that, you can kinda push a little on the belt between the came gears next day and feel it slack...the tensioner kind of relaxes after the car has cooled down, if thats the reason to this thread, OP i wouldn't worry about it much.
 
91mits:Not that I disagree with you, but consider the idea that in order for the valve train to sustain higher RPMs and larger lift camshafts one must upgrade the spring pressure which directly effects the cams' ability to turn, creating more load on the the belt, which in turn can lead to premature stretching and wear.

While my application doesn't require much more than a factory belt, I don't see why higher reving or higher horsepower cars wouldn't benefit, it not require, a more stout belt. If OEM reigned supreme in the latter instances, both the Gates Racing and HKS belts would be discontinued. That's not to say "XXX horsepower requires XXX belt." However, there must be some piece of the puzzle you've left out before coming to your own conclusion.

I'm just trying to consider this logically while playing the Devil's Advocate. :thumb:
 
91mits:Not that I disagree with you, but consider the idea that in order for the valve train to sustain higher RPMs and larger lift camshafts one must upgrade the spring pressure which directly effects the cams' ability to turn, creating more load on the the belt, which in turn can lead to premature stretching and wear.

While my application doesn't require much more than a factory belt, I don't see why higher reving or higher horsepower cars wouldn't benefit, it not require, a more stout belt. If OEM reigned supreme in the latter instances, both the Gates Racing and HKS belts would be discontinued. That's not to say "XXX horsepower requires XXX belt." However, there must be some piece of the puzzle you've left out before coming to your own conclusion.

I'm just trying to consider this logically while playing the Devil's Advocate. :thumb:

LOL like i mentioned in my post, if one was revving to a higher rpm then id want to upgrade as the speed increases and can wear down the belt hence why the kevlar belts are stronger fitted for these applications, i just look at it from an engineers view since I'm a senior year electrical engineer :sneaky:
only thing id ad is what you said, and the higher rpm, thus generating more heat on the belt, which is why kevlar belts are better suited, i have still seen oem belts used in 1000+ hp dsms, i personally if was at that level, would want the hks belt, just as a peace of mind
 
Why it's loose is that the autotensioner is doing it's thing to keep the belt in proper proportion with the timing functions and requirements.

ALL OHC motors - both chain and belt - have this looseness, for you just can't have a belt or chain tight all the time or you'll break in a heartbeat it due to the rotation pulses of the crank caused by the downward power stroke of the piston.

Little secret: Contitech builds the OEM for Mitsu and are stock belts for European OHC motors.

Contitech belts are nothing to sneeze at for massive durability in a timing belt for standard to moderate usage.
 
Thanks for all the advice. I got the gates belt and installed it and now my car is starting rough and won't run right at all. Any help on proper timing would be highly appreciated. Also I may bent some valves. Note: original belt did not break just doing maintenance. Anyone with proper knowledge please help me out. This is my first dsm and need help to get it running again. Right before this happened I just got ordered my downpipe, high flow strait pipe and found super side mount. Thnk you ahead of time for help.
 
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