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step-by-step on filling in old spoiler holes [Merged 9-6]

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i got some hole covers from home depot and painted them to match the car, then just popped em in... its good until i have money for the body shop
 
Originally posted by focusedrage
i got some hole covers from home depot and painted them to match the car, then just popped em in... its good until i have money for the body shop

OR.. leave the spolier on until you can do it right:thumb:
 
I've seen someone who replaced the low 3 piece spoiler with the 97-99 high spoiler and used those plastic hole pug thingies to fill the holes. Wasn't pretty. bleh.

Anyway, if I recall correctly I remember there being 5 holes on each side and 2 in the center (one being about the size of a quarter, maybe even a little larger).

If anyone here has ever gotten those holes filled and painted at a body shop i'd be interested in knowing what it cost. I've thought about replacing my low spolier with the high one, but never looked much into it since I just assumed it would be pretty expensive.
 
I believe it's a few hundred. Because they have to weld them like 98silvergs said and repaint the whole hatch.

I've seen people put tape. It wasn't that bad actually granted that it was a black car with black electrical tape. You don't notice it until you get real close.
 
this is brian s car, this is a very good pic of what needs to be done, he did the rear wiper too...

384mvc-005s.jpg
 
Mine was done by my boy at the body shop when I re-painted my car. He used a welder to do it. You have to be very careful and know what you are doing otherwise it will not be even. There are mad holes that need to be filled in. I got rid of my spoiler, antenna, wiper and wiper sprayer.
 
It is definatly not held on by tape!!

There are 3 holes on each side piece, 2 holes on each side of the hatch, and a hole that is about 1.5 inches in the middle of the hatch where the brake light wire comes up through.

You will need to have all the hole filled by welding them shut and sanding down so that it is even. Then apply bondo to fill any left over spots. If you don't have the holes welded shut you run the risk of them sinking and being noticable, especially the middle one.

You will need both rear quarter panels and the hatch painted.

When I swapped my low spoiler for the Turbo style it ended up costing me close to $700 for everything because I had it done right. If you want to be ghetto or have it look like #### then go ahead and use bondo or tape but for it to be right they have to be welded.
 
BONDO IT!
get a haynes car repair manual for body work. i had holed from a park bench spoiler the ricer before me had. so i got the bood, bondo'd it, then painted it (or have a body shop spray it for a few bucks). i am really picky about this ####, but you cannot see one line there now.....
 
my friend, welded metal do the back of it and filled the holes with bondo, then had it sprayed, it looks good, could have been better done by a bodyshop, but whatever helps.
 
Originally posted by Tallen
BONDO IT!
get a haynes car repair manual for body work. i had holed from a park bench spoiler the ricer before me had. so i got the bood, bondo'd it, then painted it (or have a body shop spray it for a few bucks). i am really picky about this ####, but you cannot see one line there now.....

You might be able to get away with that for the side holes but there is no way you could fill a 1.5 inch hole with bondo and have it look perfect.
 
Ok, I need a idea on how to shave these holes that the 5 peice spoiler left.

Ok, I did this befor but I used metal glues with patches, and a hamme. I brought down the surface filled it with the patch, the filled iwth glass and plastic filler.

I do not wish to do this again,

I also dont wanna

Mig weld due to blowing holes in the metal

Leading due to warping it.

Bonoding it, cuz thats just wrong,

Filling with metal glue and bondo, that doesnt last 2 long.

What other Idea's ?


Iam looking for Long Lasting protection.

I was thinking of this....

We have tons of shredded VERY SMALL sheet metal srips, like micro small, grabing tons of that and mixin with metal glue and fillin the hole, and the Plastic fill over.

I am thinking this might be the best idea and quickest.

What do u all think?
 
unless you weld in new metal nothing you do will last it will all eventually crack and fall out.
 
I kno, But its just that the ####in metal is SOOO thin at the top, iam afraid of blowing holes in the metal.

And I dont want 2 f uc k up
 
practice on some scrape metal *or a neighbor's car* you know what they say practice makes perfect
 
i just used a wire feed welder and some lil round peices of metal, and they this stuff called anti-heat compound,(you can get it at a auto body supply store) its like clay, that you put aroungd the weld and it wont warp the metal around the weld, and then i just used fiberglass filler to cover it, and it turned out perfect. its been on ther for a year now, and it get cold as hell where i live, IOWA, and i have had no cracks or swelling from the weather change.

other wise if you dont wanna weld anything, those holes are small enough you can just use lil squares of fiberglass matt(the woven kind) not the shredded. and put that on the underside of the hatch, make sure you cover it good with the resin(put some resin down before you put the fiberglass peices on, then put it on kinda thick over the fiberglass)
Then on the outside of the hatch use bondo hair(fiberglass) to cover it, IT WILL HOLD, the holes are really to small to crack, if you get the area covered around the hole on the outside of the hatch(like a couple inches around) it wont swell.
I have done that before, it was alot easier, and the cars I have done it too have held up so far, no complaints.
 
Anyone who welds for a living should be able to do a plug weld on those tiny holes, without warping the surrounding metal. You could just tack on a backing, and fill the holes with brazing.
 
You can always use fiberglass. Use a DA to sand all the paint off the trunk and bring it to bare metal, lay a layer of glass on the hole use the resin, and let it dry. It will be down a little, use a little bondo to fill then after that is sanded/grinded down, lay down another layer of glass repeat and smooth the top out with finishing putty. Works like a champ, I have my doors shaved and trunk including the rear window wiper. Looks clean, easy to do and holds. good luck
 
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