Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[Kalabalik1]

since you did the timing belt i would double check the timing and make sure it didnt slip while you were working on it. It is possible to set the motor 180* out if you dont line the timing marks on the cams up properly. dowels need to be pointing up.

Then everything is correct.
Thanks.

THIS.

Check or just replace the crank/cam sensors.

Also check the sprockets that the sensors read, I've seen sprockets lose a tooth somehow and wreak havoc. It's one of those things you'd never find if you weren't looking for it.

I will deffinetly doubble and tripple check all the connectors.
The CAS is changed, and tested, and the new one works, the old one did not.
I mean how can everything fail like this, did maby lightning hit my car??
It seem that all the fragile electronics went out on me, but cant understand why???

Thanks.

Have you checked your fuses?

All of them. quadrupple checked. =O)
Even changes some that looked a little old.

Thanks man.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Can somebody help me with my Temp Gauge.
It shows half warm ALL the time.
I disconnected the sending unit, all the temp sensors and still the gauge is on half.
The only thing seems to run the little pin is when ignition is on. I goes down only when i turn the car off.
And my fuel gauge isn't working either.
What's wrong here, how to find the fault? How to fix this?
A known problem?
Does anybody know what this is????

You are kings here, love all the help!!
Thank you very much all of you.

 

[GSTurbo1]

do you have a standalone fuel system? I had a wire unhooked from my ecu (megasquirt) and it would not allow it to run at all.

If all else fails just grab the boot of the spark plug holder and then have someone crank on the car, it doesnt hurt, its just a little tickle.

I did this with a dirtbike, gonna feel better than a little tickle

 

[Spoolin92GSX]

That could be, because it puffs out air from time to time. (sounds like while cranking).
One strange thing that happened today was when i pulled out the CAS to test the voltage while rotating it, i got those electric sound and all of a sudden a big puff of air where the EGR valve is(californian model). Scared me a little, what was that all about???????????????????????

Sorry to ask a newbie question like this but what exactly is a MAF, how to I check all this you said, boost leak and MAF??

Thanks again yall

The MAF is what measures how much air is going into your engine, so the ECU can calculate how much fuel to add to it. If that's not working right, obviously major problems. I don't know of a way to test them with a multi-meter, but it could be something to check since everything else seems right. Boost leaks tie into the same thing, if there's a leak in the intake tract (after the MAF) then the mafs reading will be incorrect and you won't get the right air/fuel ratio. There are a few write ups here and on VFAQ.com explaining how to do a boost leak test.

 

[Kalabalik1]

The MAF is what measures how much air is going into your engine, so the ECU can calculate how much fuel to add to it. If that's not working right, obviously major problems. I don't know of a way to test them with a multi-meter, but it could be something to check since everything else seems right. Boost leaks tie into the same thing, if there's a leak in the intake tract (after the MAF) then the mafs reading will be incorrect and you won't get the right air/fuel ratio. There are a few write ups here and on VFAQ.com explaining how to do a boost leak test.

Thanks a lot, i will definitely look into that.
What about the puff, do you know anything about that?
Like it released air, or like cylinder 4 ignited or something, don't know really what happened? Just made a puff from that area where the EGR valve is while rotating the CAS with the ignition ON.
Strange??



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Just fixed everything with the MAF too.
Works as it should with the leds flashing right.
But STILL no start.
This car really has quit on me, had it for only 3 days.
NICE DSM!!!!!
Whatever I do It JUST WONT START!!

Please anybody that knows this SHITTY car, help me out here. I see hundreds of views of the thread but just a few that helps, PROPS to yall but still no luck guys.
I already have made a lot of scratches on the paint because of my frustration, even made a fine text on the hood.
Please can somebody please help me out before i decide to use MY big ass Oh Baby! sledgehammer on it?

I wonder if somebody knows this for sure:
Can a CTS that is bad still give out correct ohm measurements????????????
The car seems to crank better or worse I don't know but to me it sounds better when the CTS is unplugged.
Iv'e tested it in boiling water, tests out ok.
But can it still flood my plugs?

And how much compression is too low/high for the car to not start, i think my shitty head job is preventing it from starting??? But how can it when everything is torqued to spec?????

I Hate this DSM...............It feels like the SOUL of the car just LEFT!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[turtlebain]

do you have a standalone fuel system? I had a wire unhooked from my ecu (megasquirt) and it would not allow it to run at all.

I did this with a dirtbike, gonna feel better than a little tickle

Hmm, soooo I probably wont grab onto it then. Well I just got out of work, and I want to work on it. I do know the fuel is functioning, as you can see gaseous vapor shoot out the spark plug holes on each crank, .. and of course the smell of gasoline.

Ordered NGK BR8ES Plugs. I don't think the plugs are the issue, but they look worn enough to replace. Still haven't solved this issue!

 

[Spoolin92GSX]

I just had a thought after checking your profile.. Says you have a 92, same as mine. Do you know what year the replacement ECU is for? If it's a '90 ECU there is a small amount of modification needed to make it work and run.

 

[niddydsm]

Check your grounds as well, ## Ect,Maf,Iat,Tps all use the same ground

 

[LaserRS92]

If 90 ecu in 92 car, the ecu harness will require a pinout swap of 6 and 14 if I remember correctly. This will switch the MAF and TPS signals allowing the car a much better chance of running. Also the coolant temp sensors have no start plagues both of my last two dsm's. It's where I start looking now. I accidentally put a 90 ecu in my car when it wasn't starting with no luck, swapped the pins and it started right up only to flood out about 15 seconds later bc the coolant temp sensor was bad.

 

[BogusSVO]

Run a proper compression test and leakdown test.
Check your cranking fuel pressure, it might seem like you may be getting enough by your eye, but put a gauge on it and make sure you are around 43psi

Remove one spark plug wire and spark plug, crank car over and check the color odf the spark, it should be blue/white, if it is red/orange in color you have an issue (coil)

Post back your results.


I have read thu your other threads, I I have concernes with your HG install and what condition your cylinder head is in.

 

[92PandaTalonTSI]

I know I mention this a lot on a lot of other people's problems with start up, but Check the injectors. When my car wouldn't start up, it was because the injectors were clogged up to the point where it wasnt spraying, but dripping. Therefore, the injector clicked, and fired, so I smelled the fuel but wasn't getting the right fuel. Plus the PSI was reading corrdctly at 43PSI. So always keep that in mind. I pulled the injectors out, pushed in the pin with my fingernail and tried blowing through it. When it was super difficult to blow through three of the four, I discovered I was running on 1 good cylinder the whole time which caused my car to run like poop. This will happen if there is anything in the fuel system or if the car was sitting for a while without the correct fuel stabilizer added to it. Since the car was shipped, I'm assuming that it was sitting for a while. And by the way... three days without the car not starting isn't anything compared to the year and a half it took me to get mine running

 

[turtlebain]

Sill no start.

Currently, trying to find a full diagram for the ignition circuit. My coil-on-plug is wired correctly. I have to trace the wires leading up to that to their origination.

This is what is currently hooked up to the coils:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Some more photos loose connections in engine bay:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

2 More plugs not connected to anything in the bay below:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The following usually connects to the noise condenser, but is not connected at the moment:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Then all goes into the same harness:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[JwpRider]

If you pulled the injectors (all four?) and saw them 'spraying' while cranking, then the CAS and CPS is probably OK. If the ECU does not see the Crank Position sensor 'signal' after a couple revolutions, then it stops the injectors from firing. (At least this is how it works on a 2G)

You said you mesured the CTS...Measure the sensor while 'cold' and make sure it is good. I have bought NEW sensors which were the wrong ones. It fit and plugged into the harness, but gave the wrong readings to the ECU. ---Flooding the motor ---no start! ALSO measure the 'CTS Wiring' at the ECU connector/harness. Make sure you get about the same readings. This will verify all the wiring back to the ECU. Make sure ALL the ECU plugs are in tight, and the ECU is mounted/grounded.

Finally, as other have suggested..double, double check ALL the timing marks and ignition wiring (coil pack, spark plug wiring, etc). Also make sure you have the right ECU...look for the Mitsu Partnumber on the ECU, and verify.

As others have suggested, a compression test and fuel pressure test would also be very helpful.

Good luck!

 

[counti41]

Check your CAS install it 180 degrees or will cause a crank but no start

Make sure that ECU is plugged in too

 

[AZJETSFAN]

Well I just want to thank everyone for there feedback concerning my laser. I have finally got the problem fixed and it turned out the ECM was the problem. I replaced it and now she starts every time I turn the key. Whether its hot or cold. Once again Thank you for all your responses to help me figure it out.

AZJETSFAN

 

[a2tjhb]

i have a 97 eclipse rs 2.0 non tubro thats pretty much stock i was driveing on highway and the car died. a week befor i replaced the coil pack after the car broke down i have replaced the fuel pump and filter the cam sensor and crank sensor. i have crank but no start no check engine light the fuel seams ok and pressurized im out of ideas any help would be great thanks

 

[GSTurbo1]

sounds like an ECM problem... see if you are getting spark.

 

[a2tjhb]

checked for spark last night no spark replaced the coil today stll no start is there a way to check the ECM?

 

[93_tsi_fwd]

Get a know good working ecm and swap it out.

 

[a2tjhb]

so if i have no spark and a new coil then logic says its something that controls the spark right? wich would b the ecm is there anything else that controls spark? and if it was the ecm would there b a check engine light?

 

[KewlWinter]

Had the same problem with my wife's 96 Talon N/T. Finally swapped out the ECU as a last ditch desperation move and voila! fixed!

 

[iBoostDSM]

Today I was driving and after I little while I realized a weird clicking type noise. It would get faster as rpms increased. It kind of seemed to get louder later in the day. Then I stopped at a stop sign and the car shut off. I checked for spark and I was not getting any spark. I didn't check anything fuel wise. It will turn over but nothing ignites. Brand new alternator, battery is good and I believe the starter is too, everything has power. There is one plug that is disconnected by the coilpack, a roundish plug with a white ring in it I believe. I cannot find out where it goes. Any idea what may be causing this, car is a 92 talon tsi awd.

 

[rlacasse1]

Can you take a pic of the plug and post it?

 

[iBoostDSM]

I'll get one tomorrow sometime, I have abandoned the car for now. But the wire for it comes out of the massive bunch of wires right underneath the coilpack by the intake manifold.

 

[KewlWinter]

Check the caps in your ECU. A lot of times failure is preceded by clicking.

 

[thomcasey]

Is it square ('90) or triangular ('91-94)? Could be your coil pack connection