Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[NHerron]

Yeah I would just wait until next oil change if your oil has no miles on it. Or buy cheap oil from walleyworld and do it if you wanted too

Check oil water wetter by Redline, good stuff to add to the cooling system

Yeah I would just wait until next oil change if your oil has no miles on it. Or buy cheap oil from walleyworld and do it if you wanted too

Check oil water wetter by Redline, good stuff to add to the cooling system

 

[spyderdrifter]

Right on. I'm feeling pretty good about my car now. There's not even lifter knock coming from it. After the belt squeals went away, all I heard was nice smooth operation. Still a little hesitant on taking it out on the road right now though. After that first start up I happened to check the radiator hoses for temp difference and the bottom one felt like it didn't get warm like the top did. So chances are if that's the case, I might be getting a new radiator soon.

 

[turtlebain]

Hey guys, what usually goes here:

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It got disconnected amongst some tinkering, and it is not obvious what gets connected there, if anything.
It looks like there is a cut wire lead coming out of there, but I didn't cut anything.
I know one thing though, my engine cranks, and doesn't start. I can smell the fuel. I don't hear any spark.

 

[92AWDHX40]

could be a wire cut in that area to the coil or igniton transistor.

 

[turtlebain]

could be a wire cut in that area to the coil or igniton transistor.

Car has individual coils.

Update: Soldered the cutoff wire to another wire where it had been stripped, no improvement.

 

[97polotalon]

so im just getting done with my build. the car has a built 2.0 .holset turbo . walbro 400 pump,fic1650cc injectors,fulelab fpr (43psi), so the weird thing is there was a problem with the lc1 wideband and it blew the ecu sensor ground, the car oddly enough started right up with the blown sensor ground. since the lc1 has been replaced , the car is not 100percent done the down pipe is not weilded to the turbo, but before i put it on thetrailer to take it to get the dp weilded ide like to here the car start or atleast try to start it just cranks and cranks no start, motor is great makes 160ish psi on each cylinder, i know the timing marks are spot on, the car is on speed density with the dsmlink cable, can someone please look at this log and see if they see anything weird as to why it wount start at all ,
car has great spark to , starts right up on starting fluid, so im guessing the tunes not giving me enough gas?

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

This might be a little redundant but.......did you replace the ECU since the ground blew on it?

Also from a quick peek at the log, your TPS is a bit off, your deadtime/base fuel pressure is off, the global is just a smidge off, annnd.. that's really all that stands out besides you mentioning damage to the ECU.

 

[97polotalon]

yes the ecu was repaired by ecmlink, i accually just got it running about 10minutes ago, i had to adjust the injector battery adjustment, i bumped the values up and the car fired up, im ganna adjust the tps and deadtime , thank you very much for the help! any idea where the dead time should be on these fic 1650s?

 

[danieltovar]

Thanks guys for the help. Well i will crank the motor to see the cams move, and sound like the piece of gasket or oil cause the timing the mess up. I will replace the head again, i will post more later what i find in the way to fixed my problem.

 

[turtlebain]

Guys, still looking for a fix for this..

 

[92AWDHX40]

keep looking for a broken wire, if thats all you saw in the area or check the ecu, wiring, battery, fuel system, compression so many times i changed something and found out it was something different.

 

[turtlebain]

I'll check but I thought I had checked everything that made sense. It was stripped wire coming somewhat from the spark area. Could the resistor unit (from the pics) could have gone? Where could I source a new one? What even is it? I'll check fuse boxes also. Any other ideas?

 

[5150DSM]

Honestly, I've never broken/stripped a timing belt without losing the head and I've lost 4 timing belts over the years. Removing the valve cover is by no means definitive, it's just a quick and dirty method that MAY reveal what's going on. At this point you need to pull the head(if you're not pursuing a warranty claim) and start gauging the extent of the damage. Generally speaking, you will have multiple bent valves, cracked valve guides and some divots in the pistons. A lot of the time the pistons can be saved by lightly grinding the edges of the divots untl the are smooth again. As for the rest...
Timing Belt VFAQ (Timing Belt TSB - ENHANCED)
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/368554-removing-head-components-1g-2g.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/185236-head-removal-mini-engine-rebuild.html

That should get you started. If you want to bypass the rebulding yourself, you can pick up remanned heads from J & C cylinder head exchange for a decent price. I've run a couple of their heads now with no issues.

 

[turtlebain]

It looks like there was a melted fuse in the fuse box, however it looked like it was for the ac...

Still looking for an ID on that tubular piece. with the cut end. The car has over plug coils so it might not be necessary anymore, but would like to know what it is still.

Thanks.

 

[Rsawd95dsm]

heres the tubular piece http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/435618-what.html

 

[DSM's 4 life]

that's the "noise condenser" basically a ground you should have skinny black plug within 5 inches of that

 

[bryzenga]

Check your fuel pressure at the regulator. If your getting fuel, then check spark. If you have a multimeter, Verify that you are getting voltage to your coils. Take a coil off of your setup and put a spark plug in it. Let the plug rest against some sort of metal on the engine to let it ground out and have a friend or someone crank the car while you watch for spark.

Did this problem occur suddenly or after you did some work or something?

 

[turtlebain]

heres the tubular piece http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/435618-what.html

I followed link city ^ to get to the answer. People say its a noise condenser, and rids the engine or spark noise in your radio. And the part # is MB542494. But then, there's this:

Well, i'm not 100% sure its a capacitor, but... There is a silver round piece that looks like gets grounded on the intake manifold of a 2g. I did a 6bolt swap and must not have tighten it down properly, and because it was lose, it was causing my IGN fuse to constantly blow. I removed it and the car runs fine now. What is it for and can I run without it?

and this:

I recently had the same problem...a little silver cylinder with a wire that attaches to it, and has like a phone jack connection at the end.........well anyway mine broke apart and the car wouldnt make any spark.....yet when i held it together the car would start and run fine......i also had trouble with it blowing fuses whenever it got disconnected......i took the part to an eagle dealership and a mitsu dealership and nobody was able to tell me ### the hell the part was called,,,,,,on it (if its the piece im thinkin of) it should have L035-1...but that number doesnt match up anywhere.........anyway to make a long story short, i went to a junkyard, found the part, plugged it in, i never had a problem with spark or igniton since

And then this:

Hello to all. To make things short and simple, my 420a motor got waterlocked, i reBUILT it. As in wiseco pistons, eagle rods and so on. Installed the motor a week ago and drove for 70miles flawlessly besides an oil leak coming from where the block and cradle hold the crank. Pulled it back out, resealed in, installed new orings and fired her up again. No leaks ran great, drove it to my appt 30miles down the road with no problems what so ever, turned it off, came back to start it, and it just turned over. It has no igniton whatsoever. Did minor testing in the dark. There is no power to the coil. There were no cel's when she ran, and i am running out of ideas. Only thing that is not connected is a capacitor that sits on the front of the motor. Altho i didnt have any problems the first 100 miles i drove it. Please help. Very stumped. Will do further testing tonight. Thanks!

and finally this:

It's not only for radio noise suppression. It's for general EFI and pulse absorption, which in some cases can cause interference in the ECU and other control devices.

I think I found my answer. Ordering one tomorrow.

 

[GSTurbo1]

I know for mine I sometime have to floor the gas to the floor and keep it there while trying to start. Then let off once it hits.

 

[turtlebain]

that's the "noise condenser" basically a ground you should have skinny black plug within 5 inches of that

Yeah, I was wondering where to connect up to.. that black plug is where you connect for a stock car, but with over plug coils, it may be different. I'm looking for a wiring diagram for these.

Check your fuel pressure at the regulator. If your getting fuel, then check spark. If you have a multimeter, Verify that you are getting voltage to your coils. Take a coil off of your setup and put a spark plug in it. Let the plug rest against some sort of metal on the engine to let it ground out and have a friend or someone crank the car while you watch for spark.

Did this problem occur suddenly or after you did some work or something?

Yes it occurred suddenly after tinkering with gauges, and wiring. I can smell the fuel, so I know that's working. I know that noise condenser is not connected to anything at the moment. It sounds like N/T's can run without it, but turbo's need it or it messes with the ecu.

 

[mcre8iv]

It's the starter solenoid. I replaced my starter with the same issue, it was the solenoid not releasing/ shorted.

 

[dalesocks]

Did you check the ignition switch?

 

[mcre8iv]

The clutch may be the master or the slave. I have a quartermaster twin and it's a pain...I have to replace my slave and add a longer pushrod on the save for mine to disenage before the floor...
Yeah.

 

[rev03]

any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. my car turned over but wouldnt start. i had everything to do with the timing replaced about a month ago, new cranksensor, new cam sensor, coil pack, plugs, wires, battery. ive checked the fuel and spark and everything seems to be up to par. i finally unplugged the cam sensor and the car started right up. It ran a little rough but none the less it started with it being unplugged and wont start with it plugged in.. does anyone have any ideas?

 

[Ikeelyou]

it sounds like you might need recheck the timing on your cam sensor. When you unplug it your PCM resorts back to a default fuel map so that it can "limp" home when there is a fault. It sounds like your injectors are either not firing or firing in the wrong order.