Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[1G9S9T7]

The terminals may be bad. Or bad enough to not give a good connection.

 

[damageinc0318]

all the terminals are new I replaced everything as far as the cables go . Im gonna put a multi meter on it tomarrow and see if I can figure out were my voltage drop is

 

[Mike02rt]

I'd recommend a load test on the battery to see what cold cranking amps are left in the battery (CCA). If it's too low, it will turn over the car very slowly. Free checks at any Wal-Mart with tire lube and autozone/advanced/NAPA.

A multimeter will only be able to tell you the voltage on the battery but not the CCA. But, the meter will be useful in checking voltage on all the wires.

 

[DSM_Newblet]

Thank you guys for the responses, I would contact him but he moved yesterday which sucks because he helped me with everything on my car (also with a little help from this forum and I learned alot from him but now I am on my own so i decided to make an account on here and post on these forums for further advice. But anyways I know i have air and i have a minor boost leak but the car ran fine before the conversion just would stutter when hitting about 7psi of boost. Also i know i have fuel because we pulled the return line on the fuel rail and it was spitting all over the place and im almost positive we have spark because we just replace the wires and plugs and it was doing fine before the conversion aswell. So I'm pretty stumped on this one, all clues lead to something with either the injectors or ecu since those were the only things on my car but how can i find out if the ecu is the problem??

I meant the injector and ecu where the only things replaced on my car***

I meant the injector and ecu where the only things replaced on my car***

 

[MY1GDSM]

i have a minor boost leak but the car ran fine before the conversion just would stutter when hitting about 7psi of boost.

You just contradicted your self there... .

Do a BLT for starters... .

 

[clipto]

Double check your maintanance and also get rid of those damn burning chips. No offence I have seen them they are ok but if your running a decent setup and upgrading to some E atleast make sure the beast is tuned right. Also eathonal can be fun cranking on cold starts in the morning. I use to drain my battery when trying to start that beat up I always had to carry a battery jumper box. Good luck get it sorted out.

 

[Hal]

Swap the plug wires 1&4 to 2&3

 

[MY1GDSM]

Double check your maintanance and also get rid of those damn burning chips. No offence I have seen them they are ok but if your running a decent setup and upgrading to some E atleast make sure the beast is tuned right. Also eathonal can be fun cranking on cold starts in the morning. I use to drain my battery when trying to start that beat up I always had to carry a battery jumper box. Good luck get it sorted out.

I'm not one to comment on peoples grammer as I'm no English major by any means.

But, Burnt is the word I think your looking for. Also you seen them? care to explaine? Sounds like the problem is he has no suport for his chip now. not the chip. from my experiences it's the car 99% of the time not the programming... .

The ECU probably isn't seeing the airflow it should because of a boost/vacuum leak and as I asked and HAL pointed out they probably need to swap the plug and/or injector wires.

Also, Sounds like you need a proper tune... E85 can be hard to start but killing the battery is a bit much even at freezing temps my car on 1450's and E85 doesn't take more then 2 turns of the key and that's only if the pump isn't set to run when key'd on... . oh and that is on a Chip,Ecmlink or h8/evo ecu... it's all Coding in the end just because you use a different GUI or codign them something else doesn't mean you can achieve the same things in the end.

Btw OP How warm is it out in Phoenix right now? 80-90*?

 

[DSM_Newblet]

@my1gdsm it hit about 108 today and even over that a couple days before so cold cranking is no issue we are in hell. What is a "BLT" and no i don't mean the sandwich . And i just now swapped the plugs instead of 1234 it is now 2143 and tried to start it and it sounded like it was about to start but then a weird electrical clicking noise from what sounded like the middle of my center council behind my radio or even under it (maybe the ecu) and i got scared so let off and now I'm too scared to try it again . Did i do something wrong with the plug order? What was that sound?

And now the sound is happening when i just have Key On Engine Off????? WTF

 

[Twinturbo120]

@my1gdsm it hit about 108 today and even over that a couple days before so cold cranking is no issue we are in hell. What is a "BLT" and no i don't mean the sandwich . And i just now swapped the plugs instead of 1234 it is now 2143 and tried to start it and it sounded like it was about to start but then a weird electrical clicking noise from what sounded like the middle of my center council behind my radio or even under it (maybe the ecu) and i got scared so let off and now I'm too scared to try it again . Did i do something wrong with the plug order? What was that sound?

And now the sound is happening when i just have Key On Engine Off????? WTF

I remember doing the samething and the car backfired and died. Not doing that again

 

[DSM_Newblet]

I remember doing the samething and the car backfired and died. Not doing that again

How did you fix it?

 

[Rsawd95dsm]

BLT= Boost Leak Test

 

[Airsign89]

Couldn't the presence of e85 in the system have unclogged gunk in the fuel tank and caused the fuel filter to become clogged? Also is the clicking noise you are hearing coming from where the ecu is located behind the radio/under the dash?
Edit: Also without the AFPR wouldn't starting the car be further troublesome if your pump is completely overrunning the OEM FPR?

 

[DSM_Newblet]

It's sad to say that I think I know what it is... Bad ecu I looked it up and the clicking noise behind the radio is one of the main symptoms of a bad ecu. I'm going to rip it out and inspect it to see if it's an easy repair or maybe just take it to a pro. This sucks I paid $150 for that eprom and it was bad.... maybe

 

[Airsign89]

It's sad to say that I think I know what it is... Bad ecu I looked it up and the clicking noise behind the radio is one of the main symptoms of a bad ecu. I'm going to rip it out and inspect it to see if it's an easy repair or maybe just take it to a pro. This sucks I paid $150 for that eprom and it was bad.... maybe

ECMtuning.com IE DSMlink.com does ecu repair, If you can figure out if its worth repairing.

 

[DSM_Newblet]

Yeah I'll probably just slap in the stock ecu and 450 injectors and fill the take with gas for now. I was so excited to finally be running e85 Does anyone know if i can keep the 1000cc injectors in or just put the stock ones back in.

 

[Airsign89]

Do NOT put the 1000cc injectors back in. Your car would not run, and if it did the chances of killing your cat(assuming you still have one), piston rings and sensors would be possible.

 

[DSM_Newblet]

Okay I was pretty sure it would be dangerous and that is why i asked thank you.

 

[Airsign89]

DSM Newblet: I hope I did not sound condescending in my last post. I too am a relative newb, though for the past two years as a member and as a lurker I've spent hundreds of hours sifting through the massive data dump that comprises this great site, finding out that nearly all of the info one could need for their respective dsm is here, its just a matter of finding exactly where that data is. Anyway I hope that you can repair your eprom(if it is indeed the ecu because relays are also known for causing that tick sound, mods correct this if incorrect please), and go the 'link route or utilize one of the many freelancers on this forum who burn custom eproms. Just look at the 4g63 parts classifieds and the top ad is for freelancers. I hope this helps.

 

[luv2rallye]

Do you have 1 of the 2 large battery negative cables going to a starter mounting bolt (other to firewall)?
Measure the voltage drop across each starter battery cable while cranking. Touch probe to battery post - NOT the cable terminal.

 

[xxNocturnalxx]

Make sure you have all of the grounding cables installed, intake manifold to chassis, tranny to chassis ect. I'm leaning toward bad battery though.

 

[counti41]

Do you have the cam angle sensor 180degree backwards or unplugging

 

[maxddr19]

I haven't messed with anything in my car, but a few weeks ago, me and my dad took out the alarm and we cut the black and red wire connected to it. After we took it out, the car wouldn't start so we decided that it needed a new battery. Got a new battery today and it still won't start. But everything else works. I have know idea what the problem is.

 

[92AWDHX40]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

 

[JuGs]

well if it started before the alarm was removed and then not started after it was removed i would ust put it back in. was it a factory alarm or after market?