Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[Anthony95TSiAWD]

Was there an immobilizer somewhere that you missed?

 

[spyder evolved]

I had similar problems. Turned out that my starter clip kept coming loose.. but I still pulled both the stock and aftermarket alarms out before I figured that out.

 

[maxddr19]

It was aftermarket.

Nevermind. It starts now. We cut the cord for the alarm but the automatic lock still works so when we hooked up the battery, the alarm was going off and the car won't turn on when that's going off. Just had to unlock the door and it worked.

 

[toppertopper]

hmm lets start by , The car starts , it might not start after that with out banging the gas tank ,..But other time the car will start every time ..There is spark..It will sometimes start run like total shit a/f gauge will show lean (when i press the gas while its running like that it wont die)
Fuel filter , or fpr? the pump is good turns on of course

 

[mikestalon90]

it could be the filter you also might have a short in your pump

 

[toppertopper]

If i had a sort in the pump , wouldn't it just die out sometimes? not only when i try to start the car?

 

[Arthris]

Sounds like ## pump is on its last limbs. GM pumps do the same thing. One morning itll give out. Might as well start lookong for a 190 or a 255.

 

[Funfettie]

pull out your fuel sending unit and check for matter in the tank below the fuel pump. I have seen some really dirty fuel tanks that have so much stuff in them, that when the pump starts up, it sucks all that crap off the bottom of the tank and plugs the filter on the bottom of the pump. doesnt happen very often, but it could be your issue.

Otherwise its your fuel pump. you could get another OEM pump for dirt cheep on here from another member, or look around for a walbro 190, or upgrade to a 255 if you have an afpr!

 

[toppertopper]

Thanks everyone , i will do the filter ..See if that helps , if not i will drain and clean the tank , change the pump and fpr

Might have a short or its grounding out some where..Died on my today after 6 hours , i was ready to call a tow truck ...Started wiggling the wires by the pump and it started up ...

 

[damageinc0318]

I didn't have trans to chassis ground or intake to firewall . Starts and runs fine now

 

[triggerx]

I know its going to be a lot harder, but can I do all this with the engine still in the car?
And Im assuming I should drain all the fluids before getting started correct?

 

[5150DSM]

You need to a head rebuild to your list. It's more than likely that the timing belt jumped/sheared and you bent valves, cracked valve guides, dented pistons, ect... I don't know what kind of warranty you got but by the symptoms, it sounds like the tensioner pulley failed(or was mis-installed) which caused the belt to loose tension and start walking and slipping. This caused teeth to be stripped off the belt and the timing jumped, hence the reason the motor won't turn over.
Only a teardown is going to reveal the extent of the damage but simply removing your valve cover may give you idea of where you are. Look for rockers laying in the tray, if so, guaranteed head damage.

 

[triggerx]

Alright First I want to say, thanks alot everyone. Honestly we need to credit more people on this forum ### you guys all help so much. Thanks to this forum I actually have the confidence to do something like this. A year ago I would have sold the car and Been Looking for a new one.
So thanks for all the input regardless if its the answer im looking for.

Now
@5150DSM
I removed the valve cover, And I honestly didnt see anything that was suspicious looking. Note that this is my first time doing all this so I could be wrong.
However the rockers seemed all there and lifters and cams were all right.
So from what I can see with the valve cover off i might have some luck after all.

There are two holes in the corners of the motor towards the rear of the car. 1 on each corner(closest to passenger side and closest to driver side) Im assuming these holes are suppose to be there correct?

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[WES_393]

You wont be able to see the bent valves from taking off the valve cover. You will need to run a compression test or just pull the head off the engine. I would suggest running the compression test first. Yes, those holes are supposed to be there. They are oil drains and if I remember correctly, there is actually 6.

I would personally still take it back to the shop. They replaced the timing belt and it sheered teeth, that is 100% their fault and they need to pay for the damage.

 

[triggerx]

You wont be able to see the bent valves from taking off the valve cover. You will need to run a compression test or just pull the head off the engine. I would suggest running the compression test first. Yes, those holes are supposed to be there. They are oil drains and if I remember correctly, there is actually 6.

I would personally still take it back to the shop. They replaced the timing belt and it sheered teeth, that is 100% their fault and they need to pay for the damage.

I totally feel you, but honestly Id rather just take this as a learning experience, ### at some point I wanted to know how to do this with my car.
I took it to an aamco, and that was my first mistake.
When I initially got the car done by them I was content ya know, but after all this it really isnt worth it. Not only that I have the opportunity to replace all the seals I can think of and add somethings.

BTW pulled out all 4 plugs and those are also good. doesnt seem like anything banged up against them. So with that and no metal shavings in my oil, so far so good.

As for removing the head, does the car have to be at tdc?
And can I do a Compression test w/o getting the car to operating temps?

 

[tay97gst]

Ok guys i have a tricky one for you. This isnt my GST but my sisters 99 avenger. Her cars been sitting for a while because of a bad tie rod,which my dad wont let me fix, however she does start it every other day or so. A few days ago she tried to start it and nothing(I was in the car). No crank, no clicking. She tried again and then it started the fast clicking but no crank. Thinking it was something with her battery i tried to disconnect the battery terminals to get off the corrosion and then was gonna give her a jump. As soon as i disconnected the negative ground the alarm went crazy. So i disconnected it and tried to pull all the alarm fuses, but nothing shut it off, I replaced them of course. Now every single touch to the car sets off the alarm. Now i cant jump it because the alarm is constantly going off and the car doesnt even click when starting. As we speak the terminals are off cause i couldnt take it any more. Also, i tried unlocking both doors and the trunk to shut it off but it still kept going.
Also, hyypotheticaaally, if someone hated the sound of the alarm and cut the alarm horn wires to save his sanity, would that send a signal to the starter not to start? I can resplice them if thats the case but even when i put the battery terminal back on the alarm is still going to town. Please help my sister is driving me bonkers!
ALSO, i did try to use the valet switch but to no avail. Is there some special way to shut off the alarm with the valet switch?

UPDATE: It let me jump it and started but the alarm is still going off while its turned on. I can tell because the lights are flashing like the hazards are on.

 

[AngelOfPassion]

My wife's car does this anytime we have to jump it. We have to have the keyless remote ready and have her push unlock or panic right when it goes off. Then it's fine.

We also have had to have the key in the ignition after it has been unlocked with the keyless remote when we jump it to get it to not go off. I think the doors needed to be closed as well.

I really hate her alarm needless to say...

 

[tay97gst]

My sister doesn't have a fob so I'm not sure what to do about that. Now it starts and runs just the alarm is still going off! I have no idea what i need to do to get this alarm to permanently shut off.

 

[2skippy]

Is it an aftermarket alarm or stock, depending on the alarm it may require you to lock and unluck the driverside door with the key for the system to reset. I know this is how my buddies nissan is, nothing else would shut the thing up.

 

[kraig milton]

Turning the key in the driver door lock should do the trick, If all else fails, remove the alarm. Its not like you even have a remote key fob for it. Best of luck. Alarms are funny sometimes.

 

[danieltovar]

I replace my head cover with a new one because it was leaking oil. The car turn on perfect with the new cover and i turn it off cause i saw the gasket was sticking out, and oil was coming out. I fixed again then the car wont start why if everything was fine. I have check if i have unplug a sensor, got new spark plugs but it wants to start but just dies.

 

[chinewalker]

Sounds like you got the spark plug wires out of order.

 

[TAL0NTSi]

make sure your firing order is 4-1-2-3

 

[danieltovar]

make sure your firing order is 4-1-2-3

Ok so 4 1 2 3 is the coil where do they go on the plugs

 

[WES_393]

1 is the cylinder closest to the timing belt, 4 is closest to the radiator cap. They go in order 1-2-3-4.