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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada,
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
1 is the cylinder closest to the timing belt, 4 is closest to the radiator cap. They go in order 1-2-3-4.

I just set my wires like you said and does the same thing. Yesterday it would start and died today it will crank but it would not turn like last night.

I also change the coil could me cam sensor go wrong cause of the oil plug the sensor for having my gasket sticking out cause of the compression leaking out. Help cause i have everything new in there from motor to sensor, and hoses.
 
Make sure the coil is wired up correctly. Also check your Crank Angle Sensor (under the intake cam gear) to see if it's fully plugged in and there are no shorted wires.

Just to make sure, you have the wires going into the engine 1234 and the wires at the coil going 4123, correct?
 
Make sure the coil is wired up correctly. Also check your Crank Angle Sensor (under the intake cam gear) to see if it's fully plugged in and there are no shorted wires.

Just to make sure, you have the wires going into the engine 1234 and the wires at the coil going 4123, correct?

Everything is connected triple check. The wires are connected from the coil to head like these.

coil 4 goes to cyl 4 close the the rad cap
coil 1 goes to cyl 1 close to the belt
coil 2 goes to cyl 2
coil 3 goes to cyl 3
 
Okay, sounds like the plug wires are in the right order. Take the plugs and wires out and lay them on the valve cover. Have someone crank the car while you watch (but don't touch) the spark plugs. If they fire a bright blue spark, then your good on spark. Then I would suggest taking a timing light and verify that timing is at least close to 5* BTDC with the timing pin grounded while someone cranks the car.

Here's some links that should help you out:

Base Timing Adjustment

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/246794-ignition-coil.html#post151070320

But I would seriously check everything you were even close to. CAS, CPS, ICM, etc. Any of those even mildly loose or missing a wire can cause a no start.
 
Thanks for that info and links i will do that tomorrow and post, but remember that yesterday the car turn on and drove it until i open the hood and saw the gasket out of place turn it off and fix the gasket. KNow the car turn on and died, today wont start just just act like it will, but it dosen't. Maybe the timing got mess up, but i did not mess with it, but could be.
 
Timing is good, coils are good, wires good. Maybe the cam sensor got flood in side cause of the big opening of the gasket where a lost compression and oil or the motor suck air.

Well i remove the spark plugs and connected to the wire and crank the car to see if it they would spark. The cyl 3 spark, but the rest don't. Do they all need to spark? help somebody

somebody:cry:

I did a test on the wires where you but the screw driver to see if there is spark, well wire 1 and 3 are the only ones that spark
 
Do a continuity test on the coils with a meter and see if they are too spec.
You must have disconnected something and not plugged it back the right way.
 
Do a continuity test on the coils with a meter and see if they are too spec.
You must have disconnected something and not plugged it back the right way.

I have check everything and is good. I saw my fuse that i put on my direct fan melted so its a electrical issue. Also i notice that my interior light don't turn on when the door is open. So i took the fan wires and change the the head cover, and notice that my 4 rockers come off and they are loose, i guess from trying to turn the car on so what know:barf:
 
You are looking at too many things. Check what you messed with and make sure it is all good. You didn't mess anything up with changing a valve cover and spark plug just forgot something.
 
You are looking at too many things. Check what you messed with and make sure it is all good. You didn't mess anything up with changing a valve cover and spark plug just forgot something.

Yes you are right i found that there was a electrical problem because my fan wire that is connected directly fuse melted so i did check everything with fuses and fixed what i found. Know i want to find why the rockers are so lose and they just fall off. there is a lot of space between the lifters and cam:hmm:
 
If you look on you're coil pack you will notice there labeled on the side that faces you match them with the corresponding cylinder
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If that checks out double check all your plugs Crank and cam sensors specifically
 

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If you look on you're coil pack you will notice there labeled on the side that faces you match them with the corresponding cylinder
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If that checks out double check all your plugs Crank and cam sensors specifically

They are plug like in the picture, and my sensor are knew they are also few months new when i did my motor rebuilt. These was a electrical problem cause only 2 spark plugs fire and i did put a new coil that does the same thing as the old one, so its an electrical thing but i fix somethings, but can turn the car cause the rockers are loose and they fall. I want to know why would these occur, did from trying to turn the car or something else.

One more one of the rockers has a crack in the middle.
 

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Yes you are right i found that there was a electrical problem because my fan wire that is connected directly fuse melted so i did check everything with fuses and fixed what i found. Know i want to find why the rockers are so lose and they just fall off. there is a lot of space between the lifters and cam:hmm:

What rockers are you talking about? The ones that open the valves? Then thats why it does not start.
 
My 92 Laser when its cold will start and run/drive great. Even after driving for a while it runs/drives perfect. Then if you turn the engine off it won't start back up for hours. I have replaced the dist. cap, ign rotor, ign wires, spark plugs(put iridium in), fuel pump, fuel filter, radiator, thermostat, coolant temp sensor, coolant, alternator, battery, and set the ign timing. I have tested the ign coil, starter, throttle position sensor, injectors, and done a compression test which have all tested fine. When its hot and cranking I have spark and fuel but it just won't start. Any ideas??? PLEASE HELP!!!!!!:banghead:
 
On 2g turbos i can tell you we have FPS(fuel pressure solenoid) fpr hot starts. Check if you have one and if you do make sure its functioning.
 
Need some major help with my new speed density setup for my 2g gsx auto 6 bolt ecmlink v.3, car won't start given option for MDP only when select VIO it'll start. Did I miss something?
 
My laser is the 1.8L non-turbo. I have checked and I have good spark and my fuel pressure is good as well. now here is what's weird, when the engine is at operating temperature and it won't start I came across this, if I unplug an injector it doesn't matter which injector the car will start and of course it dies. but when I plug the injector back in the car will start up. but only one time. unless I unplug an injector again. I have checked just about all sensors and relays replacing what was needed. the only thing I think it might possibly be is the ecm. but a new one is not cheap and I don't want to replace it for no reason. I'm open for any thoughts or suggestions.
 
My laser is the 1.8L non-turbo. I have checked and I have good spark and my fuel pressure is good as well. now here is what's weird, when the engine is at operating temperature and it won't start I came across this, if I unplug an injector it doesn't matter which injector the car will start and of course it dies. but when I plug the injector back in the car will start up. but only one time. unless I unplug an injector again. I have checked just about all sensors and relays replacing what was needed. the only thing I think it might possibly be is the ecm. but a new one is not cheap and I don't want to replace it for no reason. I'm open for any thoughts or suggestions.

Sounds like flooding from leaking injectors or, your fpr is not working as it should causing the leaking injectors.

I do know on a honda (early 90s) a solenoid switch in the dash would stick when it got hot, either in the car or under the hood when not running. This would cause the pump not to work and no start unless you hit the dash on the drivers side....start right up then. Sounds kinda similar but, flooding instead or, you get fuel for a couple turns of the engine then, no fuel pressure as the pump is no longer on. I still believe it is the fpr.
 
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