Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[delta448]

I have blown 3 of my head gaskets before on my Nissan Micra, and that took a lot of overheating before that happened. I literally had to rape it.

If I really blown my headgasket on My Talon duo to no overheat, just a loose coolant hose for 5 minutes then this engine really is more sensitive than a babys ass.

From what I just read on wikipedia, your Micra uses an all-aluminum engine. The 4G63 has an iron block and aluminum head. When you have two different metals that expand at very different rates sandwiching a gasket, you have to keep those metals from getting hot and expanding at those different rates. You can blow the stock 4G63 gasket at temps as low as 135C (~275 F), I've seen it happen. You can also exceed this temperature and blow them without the stock temp gauge ever reading over half, especially if the ECT is measuring an air temperature because you've lost coolant.

So in other words, if a thermostat clogs, a ECT fails or loose coolant for 5 minutes with this car, YOU'LL BLOW AN HEADGASKET?????

Usually thermostats fail open, not closed, and if the ECT fails it reads the lowest temperature in it's range, which causes the ECU to run on the warmup routine and inject more fuel, which causes a richer, cooler burn or a no-start condition the next time you try to start it.

Yes, depending on ambient conditions and how you drive, if you loose coolant and drive for 5 minutes on one of these cars, already warm, you are very likely to blow the head gasket, possibly warp the head and can even destroy the pistons.

Then this car really isn't drivable at all. Only then engine experts can drive it and that to me folks is MOST UNLIKELY!!

Not necessarily engine experts, but people who won't forget to reconnect the upper radiator hose.

SO NO HEADGASKET BLOWN, let's just drop that.

And for the compression yet again, I cannot test it at all, I STILL get 0 results on all cylinders because it wont rotate fast enough to test it.

It STILL and as in the first place HAS that SAME LAME Cranking, barely turning.

Do a leakdown test instead then.

Or you could try jumping it if you actually think the cranking problem is electrical. The fact that it won't even crank ought to tell you something.

the only thing I can think of is the thing people are saying about the coolant temp sensor
flooding my engine with gas.

Who's saying that?

 

[TSIturbo91]

I have a question. Do you know how to use a multimeter? For Ohms testings and such? If so there are many testing values in the manual for specifications of electrical equipment. Also can you have the starter tested? Here in America we got Autozones ad such to help. But I know your country hates the automobile, . So I dot think ya have any over there. Anyway the coolant sensor should have ( X ) amount of resistance when submerged in hot water. I forget the value now but it's on here somewhere.

I shall be looking for it as well if I can't find it. But I do all my work from my phone because I don't have Internet where I live. But I'm so funking far in the woods they pipe in Sunshine.

Also, please do a leak down test at all costs. It's going to say way more on here than a compression test.

Pictures and video will go a long way in some cases. And since this one is being so debated I think it will help a lot.

 

[steve]

He may be misinterpreting something I suggested he check earlier.

How easy does the engine turn over by hand while all the plugs are out?

Have you looked at the electrical connections yet?

Did the then crank normally before or has this been an issue for a while?

 

[95'RS-T]

Ok, so put the spark plugs in the engine and turn it by hand. Its not an accurate way to check compression, but you will know if you have compression if it suddenly gets tough to turn. let us know if it gets hard to turn or if it just rotates freely.

 

[Kalabalik1]

From what I just read on wikipedia, your Micra uses an all-aluminum engine. The 4G63 has an iron block and aluminum head. When you have two different metals that expand at very different rates sandwiching a gasket, you have to keep those metals from getting hot and expanding at those different rates. You can blow the stock 4G63 gasket at temps as low as 135C (~275 F), I've seen it happen. You can also exceed this temperature and blow them without the stock temp gauge ever reading over half, especially if the ECT is measuring an air temperature because you've lost coolant.


Usually thermostats fail open, not closed, and if the ECT fails it reads the lowest temperature in it's range, which causes the ECU to run on the warmup routine and inject more fuel, which causes a richer, cooler burn or a no-start condition the next time you try to start it.

Yes, depending on ambient conditions and how you drive, if you loose coolant and drive for 5 minutes on one of these cars, already warm, you are very likely to blow the head gasket, possibly warp the head and can even destroy the pistons.


Not necessarily engine experts, but people who won't forget to reconnect the upper radiator hose.


Do a leakdown test instead then.

Or you could try jumping it if you actually think the cranking problem is electrical. The fact that it won't even crank ought to tell you something.


Who's saying that?

I saw it some threads here and on google.
I really then hope that is the headgasket.

It turns hard, i need a wrench then, with the plugs in it.
Without the plugs its fairly easy.

And im sorry to everybody that said its the gasket.
I said it wasn't it 100%, I TAKE THAT BACK!!
Ill find out pretty soon when my friend arrives, we will test to push it.
If it doesnt start then, then it has to be the GASKET =O(
But thats not that expensive is it or?? If its only the gasket then I can change the gasket, of course leveling out the head too. Or how you call it in the states?
I guess i need to replainish the valves too, don't know what they call it here either, im sorry.

Sincerely Alex

I have a question. Do you know how to use a multimeter? For Ohms testings and such? If so there are many testing values in the manual for specifications of electrical equipment. Also can you have the starter tested? Here in America we got Autozones ad such to help. But I know your country hates the automobile, . So I dot think ya have any over there. Anyway the coolant sensor should have ( X ) amount of resistance when submerged in hot water. I forget the value now but it's on here somewhere.

I shall be looking for it as well if I can't find it. But I do all my work from my phone because I don't have Internet where I live. But I'm so funking far in the woods they pipe in Sunshine.

Also, please do a leak down test at all costs. It's going to say way more on here than a compression test.

Pictures and video will go a long way in some cases. And since this one is being so debated I think it will help a lot.

Ill really look in to this too.
THANKS TO YOU TOO, PLEEENTY!!!!!

Sincerely Alex

He may be misinterpreting something I suggested he check earlier.

How easy does the engine turn over by hand while all the plugs are out?

Have you looked at the electrical connections yet?

Did the then crank normally before or has this been an issue for a while?

It turns pretty hard with the plugs in it and fairly easy with them out.

I've checked every connection i could find and they all seem ok.

It has been cranking that lame since it stalled out.

Thanks again.

From what I just read on wikipedia, your Micra uses an all-aluminum engine. The 4G63 has an iron block and aluminum head. When you have two different metals that expand at very different rates sandwiching a gasket, you have to keep those metals from getting hot and expanding at those different rates. You can blow the stock 4G63 gasket at temps as low as 135C (~275 F), I've seen it happen. You can also exceed this temperature and blow them without the stock temp gauge ever reading over half, especially if the ECT is measuring an air temperature because you've lost coolant.


Usually thermostats fail open, not closed, and if the ECT fails it reads the lowest temperature in it's range, which causes the ECU to run on the warmup routine and inject more fuel, which causes a richer, cooler burn or a no-start condition the next time you try to start it.

Yes, depending on ambient conditions and how you drive, if you loose coolant and drive for 5 minutes on one of these cars, already warm, you are very likely to blow the head gasket, possibly warp the head and can even destroy the pistons.


Not necessarily engine experts, but people who won't forget to reconnect the upper radiator hose.


Do a leakdown test instead then.

Or you could try jumping it if you actually think the cranking problem is electrical. The fact that it won't even crank ought to tell you something.


Who's saying that?

Everything you said, i think you'r SO on it.
Huge Thanks!!

Ok, so put the spark plugs in the engine and turn it by hand. Its not an accurate way to check compression, but you will know if you have compression if it suddenly gets tough to turn. let us know if it gets hard to turn or if it just rotates freely.

It turns hard, i need a wrench then, with the plugs in it.
Without the plugs its fairly easy.

 

[95'RS-T]

So you got some compression since its turns hard. Do you know if there is any coolant in the oil? I believe the engine should still start even with a blown head gasket. It seems like you don't have any spark since its flooding with fuel. Check if your getting spark by having a friend crank the engine with #1 plug out to see if it sparks, then try #2 spark plug.

 

[hyperfreezer]

I'm a newbie, hence why I'm posting here. I recently went from a subaru to a dsm, and its been a dream untill recently. I drove the car to the bank, went in, and when I came back out it wouldn't fire up. All I get is a click from the starter relay. We replaced the starter, and the relay switch, but still have the same problem. We jumped the starter and it spun like crazy, but turning the key never seemed to send the signal to the solenoid to engage the flywheel. Already tried jumping the car to see if the battery was low, but no luck.

Only other thing I can think of is the clutch engage sensor. Might of messed it up somehow?
Any ideas?

Thanks.

Edit: the motor turns over if I pop the clutch. Runs and idles just fine.

 

[jared98gst]

if it clicks check your grounds by battery, something simple and starter ground is fine too? mine likes to loosen up

 

[Aphix]

I would definitely check your battery terminals and ground terminal as that is classic symptoms of a bad connection.

 

[hyperfreezer]

Yessir it clicks, and kills all of the other electrical in the car, gauges and radar power off till I let the key release from the ignition position.

I will check the grounds by the battery after work in addition to the clutch engage sensor.
The ground on the actual starter is good, I transfered it to the tranny bolt that sits right next to where the starter mounts.

 

[EverettGSX]

I have a problem here I'm trying to solve tht I messed it up my self, so factory alarm went on and instead of take the wire off the battery I cut off 4 wires that were connected to the alarm horn, and now car won't start, so if I'm gonna re-wire them will the car start? Or there's smthng else I'm gonna need to do? Any idea? And also how else can I turn it off if I have shaved handles and and no remote or anything to the factory alarm? If anybody knows what to do ### let me know thanks

 

[Sir Joke]

my batt ground always seems to come lose every couple months and idk why. No matter what i do.

 

[supermario300hp]

+1 on the battery. check your fuses too.Alot of times its the simple stuff that gets overlooked

 

['97 Cayenne]

I haven't given up on this (not yet anyway) its simply on hold right now while I sit on my ass and wait around for my new injector seats to come in. Should be here tomorrow or Thursday

 

[Mr PopUps]

Sounds like you popped a fuse maybe, but if the 2G's are like my 1G, there is a starter cut relay that will prevent you from starting when the alarm is going off. Its behind the knee pad on mine, more than likely in the same place.

 

[hyperfreezer]

The battery is in the trunk since there's no room for it up front. I'm eager to see if vibrations threw the ground connection loose. Ahh I'm going to be in a coma if that's all the problem has been. I've been working on the car since last Friday trying to trace wires and whatnot. Never thought to check the battery ground.

 

[Kalabalik1]

So you got some compression since its turns hard. Do you know if there is any coolant in the oil? I believe the engine should still start even with a blown head gasket. It seems like you don't have any spark since its flooding with fuel. Check if your getting spark by having a friend crank the engine with #1 plug out to see if it sparks, then try #2 spark plug.

Iv'e checked the oil and smelled it, it only smells like oil and looks normal, dark brown, as it should.
Yes, iv'e pulled all the plugs out and they give nice blue bright spark and in sync too it looks like.
I think I flooded them duo to the cranking without the throttle fully open.


To Anyone:

Another thing:
If it would have NO compression at all, wouldn't I be able to push it easily while it is in gear and almost by myself???
And if it HAS compression that it is very hard for me to push it while it is in gear???

Am I Right??

 

[delta448]

If it's in gear you won't be able to push it.

Have you checked the ECT sensor yet?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[95talongirl]

From what I just read on wikipedia, your Micra uses an all-aluminum engine. The 4G63 has an iron block and aluminum head. When you have two different metals that expand at very different rates sandwiching a gasket, you have to keep those metals from getting hot and expanding at those different rates. You can blow the stock 4G63 gasket at temps as low as 135C (~275 F), I've seen it happen. You can also exceed this temperature and blow them without the stock temp gauge ever reading over half, especially if the ECT is measuring an air temperature because you've lost coolant.

Very true. Quite a few cars from the 80/90's era suffered a lot of head gasket problems due to the fact that the manufacturers were using cast iron blocks and aluminum heads. As stated above, this different rates of expansion from heat can cause problems. The old turbo mopars and the dodge neon were well known for head gasket failures. I really wouldn't rule this out of the equation yet. Also, depending on how bad it is, sometimes the car won't start back up. Esp. with a loss of compression like you are experiencing. Sometimes it's only leaking a little, and it'll run a higher temp than normal, but you could drive it for a long time like that.

So I'm a +2 for a leakdown test.

Edit: sorry, didn't see the posts above while I was typing this.

 

[Kalabalik1]

Very true. Quite a few cars from the 80/90's era suffered a lot of head gasket problems due to the fact that the manufacturers were using cast iron blocks and aluminum heads. As stated above, this different rates of expansion from heat can cause problems. The old turbo mopars and the dodge neon were well known for head gasket failures. I really wouldn't rule this out of the equation yet. Also, depending on how bad it is, sometimes the car won't start back up. Esp. with a loss of compression like you are experiencing. Sometimes it's only leaking a little, and it'll run a higher temp than normal, but you could drive it for a long time like that.

So I'm a +2 for a leakdown test.

Edit: sorry, didn't see the posts above while I was typing this.

I really appreciate all this tips, without you guys I would literally go crazy.
THANKS A LOT YET AGAIN!!!

I really don't know what a leak down test is but I'm sure ill find it if i google it.
Thanks again everybody, Ill get back with any updates.

Sincerely Alex

I really appreciate all this tips, without you guys I would literally go crazy.
THANKS A LOT YET AGAIN!!!

I really don't know what a leak down test is but I'm sure ill find it if i google it.
Thanks again everybody, Ill get back with any updates.

Sincerely Alex

I found it, and I will definitely do a leak down test to if it wont start when I push it.
PLEASE, PLEASE i hope it starts when i push it.

Sincerely Alex

 

[JwpRider]

One common thing I hear, is the LAME CRANKING...If it is cranking slow, get some f'n battery power (a couple KNOWN GOOD batteries in parallel) and try it. If it still cranks slow, look into the starter or wiring to starter (big wires, need good connections). Until you get it really cranking, you are not even 'trying' to start the car...so you don't know if it is broken or not. (Seen it before).

 

[EverettGSX]

Sounds like you popped a fuse maybe, but if the 2G's are like my 1G, there is a starter cut relay that will prevent you from starting when the alarm is going off. Its behind the knee pad on mine, more than likely in the same place.

Hey thanks I'll check that

 

[1cleanreddsm]

the power outage you're experiencing is due to the ground on your battery. Try replacing or adding more ground to the battery.

and for the clutch sensor, simply just unplug it.

 

[Kalabalik1]

If it's in gear you won't be able to push it.

Have you checked the ECT sensor yet?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I will check that tomorrow as soon as I wake up.
Thanks PLENTY!!!!

One common thing I hear, is the LAME CRANKING...If it is cranking slow, get some f'n battery power (a couple KNOWN GOOD batteries in parallel) and try it. If it still cranks slow, look into the starter or wiring to starter (big wires, need good connections). Until you get it really cranking, you are not even 'trying' to start the car...so you don't know if it is broken or not. (Seen it before).

Your SO right about this.
I will do everything little thing people here tell me to do, it all seems so logical,
what everyone is telling me.
Im very stoked that i get so much help about this car.
Now I REALLY see that buying this BEAUTY of a car was WEEEEEEEELL wort it.

Thanks again to everyone, If I could send all yall flowers I would!!

Sincerely Alex

Not as positive today as yesterday!

I tried today to start it by towing it, and as sensitive MF as I am, I sitting here and crying literally like a baby.
Depressed as I am and realised that THIS car right now SUCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I't aint my dream car anymore, I just hate it right now. It seems something more serious. Because of tiny coolant loss????? Because of that stupid radiator hose?????
It didn't start at all, we had good speed, I was towed while trying to start it an NOTHING, like yall say here: with no AVAIL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I checked the ECU box for something, seemed like it had some corrsion here and there but nothing serious but still It can be faulty,
But these ecu boxes does not exist here and I cannot test it with a working one =O(

Im really depressed now, I don't have tools to test compression accurately and tools to do a leak down test to really find out if it is the Head gasket or WHATEVER!!!
Live way out in the bushes so only God knows when someone will be able to help me again with anything. I think it will remain here and broken like it is for a loooooong while.
Im ALL out of money right now!!!!

THIS CAR JUST STABBED ME IN THE HEART OF MY SOUL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

A BIG Sorry to everybody for this depressed post!!!

Alex

 

[hyperfreezer]

Pulled the battery, got it tested and charged, battery is good. Added another ground on the battery. Avoided catastrophic fire due to a bad gas tank seal. Car still won't start. Removing and reinstalling starter tommorow, and checking the ground.

Any other suggestions? Much appreciated.