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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada, Manitoba_Canada
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Having some issues with my 95 Talon FWD. Its a 6 bolt swap with a 2g head.
Has a no start no crank issue. Just clicks once from the starter relay in the interior, and at the same time once under the hood. I reground the starter relay and made sure it was tight.
Won't start with a jump.
One single click from the relay in the car and also from under the hood.

What I've done.
Charged/tested battery
Checked Fuses
Checked ground on firewall and starter
Tightened pos. cable contact to starter
Replaced Starter Relay in dash
Tested starter/Tested Good
Tried to start it unplugging Clutch Start switch
Cleaned Posts/New Clamps.
Lights don't dim when starting.
CEL Comes on, goes awy when ignition is in ON position.
New Spark Plugs
New Wires


Car push starts fine.

I'm at a loss on what else to try unless quite possibly the alarm is interfering. My battery isn't being drained either.
Just dunno what to do. Ive researched a lot and still can't seem to find the issue.
 
Sounds like your starter. Seen starters test good and still be bad. Remember starters are not tested under load. What I mean is starter pin may pop out and spin but is freely. Might not be strong enough to turn the weight of the fly wheel to get it to start. At least is stick and you're able to push start it vs an auto
 
Does the starter try to engage at all? Does the starter itself click? Sounds like the starter armature is stuck (bad starter)[DOUBLEPOST=1414547795][/DOUBLEPOST]Have someone try start it while u take a hammer and lightly tap on the starter
 
Yes the starter itself clicks and there's a very faint rapid clicking for maybe a second, I couldn't hear it until I recorded a video with my phone under the hood while I started the car. There's someone in the background with a nail gun and a hammer.

Im ultimately thinking the starter, even though it tested good is actually bad. I literally went through everything else except for replacing the starter.

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Having some issues with my 95 Talon FWD. Its a 6 bolt swap with a 2g head.
Has a no start no crank issue. Just clicks once from the starter relay in the interior, and at the same time once under the hood. I reground the starter relay and made sure it was tight.
Won't start with a jump.
One single click from the relay in the car and also from under the hood.

What I've done.
Charged/tested battery
Checked Fuses
Checked ground on firewall and starter
Tightened pos. cable contact to starter
Replaced Starter Relay in dash
Tested starter/Tested Good
Tried to start it unplugging Clutch Start switch
Cleaned Posts/New Clamps.
Lights don't dim when starting.
CEL Comes on, goes awy when ignition is in ON position.
New Spark Plugs
New Wires


Car push starts fine.

I'm at a loss on what else to try unless quite possibly the alarm is interfering. My battery isn't being drained either.
Just dunno what to do. Ive researched a lot and still can't seem to find the issue.

Did you try an ohms test between the positive starter terminal and ground?
 
Using a test light one side to neg battery post one side to starter signal terminal turn key to crank position and see if test light illuminates if it dies uve most likely got a bad starter
Edit: if it DOES uve most likely got a bad starter
 
I might be able to get ahold of a test light tomorrow before work. and give it a shot. I think I might go out there now and pull the starter up through the top with the harness and triple check the connection and wires again. I'll post pics when I do it. Might not be till tomorrow. Just seen the time.
 
It looks like everyone has covered it but make sure you have 12 volts at the starter for power, and then that the start signal is actually getting to the starter. Grab a multimeter and start looking for 12 or more power signals. Surprisingly a bad ground could do it as well.
 
Yeah I'm def going to try it, first thing in the morning. I have extra wire of various gauge to try it. I'll reply with an update. Thank you guys though for helping and even the attempt of helping.[DOUBLEPOST=1414697823][/DOUBLEPOST]Assuming I did it properly, I took a 10 gauge wire and wrapped it around where the harness goes to the starter, on that metal piece closest to the solenoid. Fed it to my friend that was top side for him to pull it to the battery. When I touched the pos, it just did what it was doing in the video. I get paid tomorrow, gonna pick up a starter and hopefully that'll be that.
 
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~Update~
Replaced the starter, rechecked all connections and wires.

Still doing the same thing. Any other ideas? Gonna check the voltage I suppose starting at the battery when I can get an extra $20 bucks to buy an ohms reader. Can a battery charge and test good, but the crank amps be depleted?

Updated Video
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Last edited:
Measure the voltage AT THE STARTER (not at battery) WHILE TRYING TO CRANK with your jumper wire on the starter solenoid. Measure at both the starter solenoid signal and the main large cable on the starter. If less than 10 volts you either have a weak battery, bad starter, or poor battery cables/connections. Check/clean connections. Make sure large battery negative goes directly from the battery negative terminal (not from body connection) to a starter mounting bolt.
 
All right I used a bigger gauge wire to try and remote start it again. At the risk of sounding dumb(but never went through this stuff before) I might have done it wrong the first time.(remote starting)

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The first time I was trying to remote start it with a wire to the POS cable to the right. This second time getting it to crank over I touched it to the right at first, nothing. I then touched the wire to the left side and success, car starts up.
I probably was supposed to do that in the first place the first time. But I'm assuming my POS cable is bad, unless its on the wrong side. I.E. I have my POS from BATT to starter on the right side. Bolted down.
 
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