Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[slonkey]

I did a boost leak test and the only spot it really let's out air is on the exhaust mani to Hot side turbo. Old owner broke a bolt in it and we can't get it out.

 

[undefined0000]

I'm on SD no maf. And it's tuned I checked it.

DSM1G90 had some good points. Check into those?

 

[slonkey]

Well I didn't lay the down on there my buddy has a spark plug tester. He put this thing on the wire then to the plug. Screw a little thumb screw and it sparks in that. I believe he said it was blue. Don't know how big but he said blue.

 

[slonkey]

And what u mean by compression is sniffing it

update - So i did a compressing test and got about 110 all the way. lowest was 100 and highest was i think 115 or 112 or something. checked the injectors again and put a little gauge bulb on it. found that its not lighting the bulb. checked with a different bulb, still don't light or flash. nothing. i hear a clicking or grinding sound in the intake/TB section. don't know if that helps but i tried tracking it down but really cant (getting dark).

so any farther help, please let me know.

 

[drive57]

Hey yall, my current vehicle is a fresh built 6bolt swap with a 1g CAS installed with RRE harness. I placed in stock ecu and bingo, car turns on. With stock injector to break in engine.

Installed AEM EMS v1 and no luck, I contacted aem troubleshooting and finally turned on my car, and started burning a lot of gas through exhaust and wont stay on.

It their steps, or something in calibration that needs to be done? Base map for 99 2g with 6bolt swap.

Thank you in advance

 

[98mitsubishigst]

i bought my old gst back with a rod that was smashed threw the side of the block..

I took motor out on friday, and put one i bought off a member on tuners last night..

Today i wired her all up and put everything together.. Went to start it and she started right up.. But was misfiring. I then noticed that out of my water neck i had the cap off to pour more fluid it, not even 30 seconds into running the car it was shooting up relatively high..

I turned off and started again, same thing..

Now the car won't even start, it just cranks.. Any ideas??

My buddy says head gasket but i don't wanna jump to conclusions just yet..

 

[GSTurbo1]

Leakdown test? Cracked cylinder wall

 

[98mitsubishigst]

i doubt that its cracked wall...

Anyone else.. ??

 

[PrimerPLus]

Shooting up? The rpm's or the radiator fluid?

If rpm's I'd start with boost leaks, plugs, possibly your throttle cable sticking? Or your throttle body plate?

If coolant possible headgasket, again check down in plug holes to see if water in there. Do a leak down test.

Usually when replacing motor I have a check list to make sure everything is how it is suppose to be. Your ecu is compatible with your motor year?

 

[GSXSixteenG]

There's not enough information here to diagnose anything. Spark? Fuel? Compression/leakdown test? What was shooting up?

 

[pauleyman]

and you only ran it 30 seconds? unless there was no coolant at all you couldn't have blown a head gasket by overheating.

 

[Lou98GSX]

30 seconds is not enough time to blow a head gasket. it could of been blown already .do a leak down test with the radiator cap off. if the head gasket is blown the antifreeze will start to rise and pour out .

 

[slonkey]

Had a few updates . And now I hear this weird cranking or shorting out noise when I take the keys out. Right by the TB and next to or under the intake manifold. Couldn't really track it down.

Very back of the intake manifold, there is a black and white wire going to a little silver box. What is that. Why I ask Is because the wires for that looked a little brittle and I would like to redo it.

 

[GSTurbo1]

110 is really really low man... you need to see what the service limit is, I think you might be under.

 

[98mitsubishigst]

i bought the motor and was said to have a brand new head gasket and rebuilt head..

Update: i got the car to idle, it was the throttle stuck open..

Now my issue is i got white smoke coming out of exhaust, and the car is misfiring bad... Also this is what my oil looks like.. I'm assuming this isn't what oil should look like, am i right?

But would a blown head gasket cause the car to misfire??

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30 seconds is not enough time to blow a head gasket. it could of been blown already .do a leak down test with the radiator cap off. if the head gasket is blown the antifreeze will start to rise and pour out .

When i do that, all you see is water shooting up and out, not even 30 seconds into the first start up it was doing this..

 

[gieri002]

Just do a compression test, this will really help you narrow the list of possibilities. Yes it looks like you have a blown head gasket though, that certainly looks like oil mixed with coolant.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Yes the head gasket can/will cause a missfire; the spark plug/plugs generally get soaked with coolant.

That is definitely oil and water mixed, so I'm thinking the head gasket wasn't completely fixed.

 

[slonkey]

I got 272s idk if that would make a difference tho. And it's low but I would think it'll still start, wouldn't it?

 

[Colt4G63 also]

The noise under the throttle body is probably the ISC; it's a motor that moves when you turn the key on and off. Did you check the plugs for flooding?

Did you just say in post #9 that you put a noid light on an injector plug, and it doesn't light?
That would equal no fuel.

 

[slonkey]

So that's normal for the isc?

The whole idea was when I took the fpr off the rail it drained the fuel in the line. Then my buddy told me to try to start it, (coil unplugged. It squirt fuel. So I figure it's getting fuel. But I did put a light onto the injectors (last 2) first 2 i never did, and didn't get any light or pulse what do ever.

I also checked timing, they go back to TDC so it didn't jump.

 

[slonkey]

Plugs. Smelt of a little gas. Weren't wet at all tho.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Was this bulb test done with the injector unplugged? With a low watt bulb? If there's nothing there, then check for power to the injectors when the key is on, and make sure the injector resistor pack on the firewall is plugged in properly.

 

[slonkey]

Yeah I unplugged the injector and. Put the bulb into the little inj plug thing . Sorry but I really haven't tore into any of this before. And the key was on and I put a Dvm to the leads on the inj and got nothing. I made sure the pack on the firewall was plugged in and looked for open or stray wires. All looked good.

 

[DSM1G90]

Screw a little thumb screw and it sparks in that. I believe he said it was blue. Don't know how big but he said blue.

Nah ... you need to physically see the spark jump from electrode to ground on the plug itself with the wires coming direct from the coilpack - none of this inbetween stuff. Who knows: you could have plugs that could have crapped out on you with no external evidence of internal failure - why you take them out, lay them on the block, hit the key and see them spark...but pull the MPI fuse so the injectors won't be shooting fuel into the system when you do this test.

You put that inbetween stuff between wire and plug and it's not going to be the real thing.

Couple things I did forget: 1-When you pulled plugs, were they coal black with soot, wet being soaked with fuel, or normal dry? If coal black with soot, fuel isn't being all burnt off due to super cold firing plugs. 2-DO YOU HAVE A CEL? If you accidently pulled a plug off a sensor with the motor running, you have a good chance of shorting out the driver and blowing a ground strip on the ECU which would easily throw a CEL and give you that crappy hard starting issues...why I mentioned earlier - on a ECU crapping out on you.

Good luck with your find. - DSM

 

[Colt4G63 also]

If you don't get constant power from the positive side of the injector plugs when the key is turned on, then check for power back at that MPI fuse that you were having problems with. There's probably some problem/short related to that circut.

The red wire that supplies constant voltage to the injector resistor pack, is the same circut as the red wire that supplies power to the purge sol., EGR sol., FPR sol., WGA sol., MAF, CAS, ECU (pin 107), and the two red wires that power the ISC. Power is outputted to that circuit by pins #4 and #5 of your ten pin MFI relay near your ECU.