The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Squeeling noise

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

reptile80

Probationary Member
26
0
Aug 30, 2009
pahrump, Nevada
Ok so the car originally started squeeling only when it was started up, would squeel for about 15 to 30 seconds and then would go away until I would come to a stop light. It would squeel again there until I started to move. After a few minutes it would stop all together. So I changed the main belt on the car and now it makes a louder squeeling noise and doesnt go away unless I put some belt dressing on the belt. Any one have any ideas on this. I currently have an underdrive pulley ont he crank, other than that the belt system is stock. The car is a 99 GS lowered, with headers.

Thanks for you help
 
Where to start, first get rid of the underdrive crank pulley as you are asking for major problems with that. Second, stop using the belt dressing as that does damage belts and just covers up a problem. Check all the belts for fraying, chunking, cracking etc. Proper tightness is a must as well. Get back after all of that is taken care of.

Reason about the UD crank pulley is that without the dampner, the crank has higher chance to flex and snap. If you search around, you can find pictures of snapped cranks with the UD pulleys.
 
Where to start, first get rid of the underdrive crank pulley as you are asking for major problems with that. Second, stop using the belt dressing as that does damage belts and just covers up a problem. Check all the belts for fraying, chunking, cracking etc. Proper tightness is a must as well. Get back after all of that is taken care of.

Reason about the UD crank pulley is that without the dampner, the crank has higher chance to flex and snap. If you search around, you can find pictures of snapped cranks with the UD pulleys.

Original poster has a 420a, not a 4g63, UDP's are perfectly fine on the 420a, because they are internally balanced, unlike the 4g63 which are externally and UDPs are a horrible idea. Many many 420a users have been using UDP's with little to no problems.

Anyways, I agree with checking for proper tightness. Also depending on the UDP company, they will normally give you a list of belts they recommend for proper size/fitment and quality. 2ndly try to narrow down which belt is squealing, is it your alternator belt or your PS/AC belt? That could also help narrow down which belt is the wrong one or improper.

Lastly, how long has it been on before this started, or did it just start with the new UDP. After so long a new belt will stretch and need to be re-tightened, it normally wont happen more than once, sometimes twice at most, but once again that would lead to proper tightness.
 
make sure that you have not overtightened or undertightend the belt i believe your wanna be able to push the belt about a half inch to 3/4 of an inch when tightened they have a special tool for it but i have never bothered to buy it i overtightened my ps belt on my 420a and it make it squel
 
The UDP is fine so long as it's not a junk ebay one. If it's a junk one, chances are it's not balanced, which can cause catatstrohpy. UDP's for the 4g63 are bad because it can do exacty what he said, you'll find almost no one uses them. However, this is not the case for the 420A. It's a pretty well proven upgrade so long as it's a properly balanced one. If you install it and notice any wobbling at all, it's not balanced.
To the OP:
Your squeal could be coming from your alternator. I doubt it's your ac. It's clutch doesn't even engage unless you're using it, and if it was your power steering pulley, squeeling from being too taught or too loose, it would squeel everytime you turn too hard, not at idle. I'll bet the farm that it's originating from your alternator. Either the belt is too taught, too loose, or your alternator is starting to go out. Get your alternator tested at Auto Zone (free) and make sure you have the proper size belt for your UDP. A good simple test for checking for proper tension on your Alt. belt is to, while the car is off, grab the belt between your thumb and index finger and twist it. If it twists easily beyond 180 degrees, it's too loose. If it's a hard twist to that 180 degree mark, it's too tight. I know it sounds vague but with a little bit of trial and error with readjusting it, you should get the squeel to stop. Good luck.


AHHH F*** IT ALL!!! I get done posting and there are 3 replys saying the same freakin' thing!!!!! AAAAUGGGHHHHH!!!!!!!!!
 
Last edited:
Ok, well the old belt did not make noise, well it did at start up. It is the ac/ps belt that is making the noise. I have tried tightening it, loosening it up, nothing seems to work. I looked at the UDP and it is spinning normal and straight.

I replaced the old belt with a new one because it was squeeling at start up. I also changed out the bearing on the tensioner pulley for the ac/ps belt. When looking down at the belt it looks straight, no turns or curves as it should be. The new belt squeels just as bad as the old belt and I have swapped them back and forth to compare. As soon as I spray it with belt dressing the squeel goes away. I have been very carefull to make sure that I only hit the belt and not a pulley to make sure I didnt hit the bearings (did this to verify the noise was comming from the belt).

The squeel is now constant with either belt on. I have tried everything that I could think of, I used the belt dressing (I know its bad), soaped the belt, and tonight I put the old belt on and cleaned the new belt to see if something there was dirty.

The alternator belt doesnt make any noise, I pulled the main belt (ac/ps) off and turned the car on and no noise at all. So it has to be that belt.

Any help is appreciate.


Thanks
 
Check your pulleys for wear. If the belt was run to tight for sometime,
it will wearon the pulleys, causing them to change their "pitch" thus
making the belt not fit into the grooves properly. (had this happen on
some fan motors at work. changing pulleys took care of the problem)
 
The Pulleys dont look worn at all, I did notice a build up of rubber on them so I think I will take a wire brush to the pulley to clean them off.
 
ok so i checked the pulleys, and they are now clean and there is a very very little amount of play in and out on the pulleys, but when the car is running I dont see the pulleys moving at all. The power steering fluid level was really low, not sure if that makes the power steering pump work harder hense could make the noise or not. As of now it is not making a noise, but I will see if it is in a few hours.
 
ok so i checked the pulleys, and they are now clean and there is a very very little amount of play in and out on the pulleys, but when the car is running I dont see the pulleys moving at all. The power steering fluid level was really low, not sure if that makes the power steering pump work harder hense could make the noise or not. As of now it is not making a noise, but I will see if it is in a few hours.

The power steering pump will whine if it get's too low. I'm assuming you topped it off.

The belts should have IIRC 1/4 inch play up and down for proper tightness.
 
Yeah i topped it off, now when I press down on the inside of the power steering pulley with the car running the noise goes away, when I press on the outside of the pulley the noise stays. Does this mean that the bearing needs to be replaced? or the pulley itself is bad?
 
Ok so I finally got rid of the squeel, turns out it was the pulleys not being aligned, they were off by one ribb.

Thanks for the help guys.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 3 inch Magnaflow SS high flow cat
    3 inch Magnaflow stainless cat. High flow. 18.25 inches. Flange holes are 4 1/8 center. Has...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top