Clicking Noise

[firefly1241]

ok i just bought a 1998 eagle talon esi when i bought it it the guy told me that i needed to rplace the lifters from a clicking sound in the the engine its right on top so im wondering if hes correct he said he had 4 licensed mechanics look at it and they all said to replace the lifters also when replacing the lifters should i also replace the timing belt or should the car be fine with just replacing the lifters

Forgot to add the noise is at idle and once the car gets to highspeeds the knocking stops does that diagnose that this would be lifter knock ???

 

[dr1665]

Could be lifter tick. Might as well pop for all new timing belt, tensioner, and pullies. You'll be removing the timing belt to take the cams out for those lifters. I'd suggest upgrading to the PT Cruiser lifters. You can get them from Parts Dinosaur. Better oiling is never a bad idea.

 

[firefly1241]

thanx also another question ### would you would think would be a first good mod after i fix the lifter tick ???

 

[DSMcrazy3]

Depends on what your goals are with your car. If you plan to turbo it, I would recommend going ahead and buying some parts, or atleast saving for some.

If your plans aren't that drastic, I would just go with an Ebay Cold Air Intake setup. Followed by headers, and a nice exhaust.

 

[GSGoinFast]

thanx also another question ### would you would think would be a first good mod after i fix the lifter tick ???

http://www.2gnt.com/nuke/modules.php?name=Sections&op=listarticles&secid=19
Check that out. You will find most any questions you may have will have already been answered and you can find them through the search both on this site and 2gnt.com. IF you cannot find the info after searching, then feel free to ask. Good luck

 

[firefly1241]

thanks guys lots of props on the help i am lookin to go turbo after a little while any ideas for starter parts ???

 

[DSMcrazy3]

There are so many parts involved with turboing your car. As long as you're serious it doesn't really matter what you get first. Some of the cheaper things are fuel pump, FMU, gauges and oil lines. The more expensive list would contain Intercooler, Turbo, BOV(depending on the kind you want you can put that in the less expensive list).

Those are just some starters.

 

[BigRand]

well decide if your going with a kit or custom.

Answer is probably custom so......

try looking at what kind of turbo your gonna be aquiring (16g,big16g,20g,t3,t3/t4,t4, mitsu t-25, garrett t-25, etc etc.)

Fuel system for what your planning:

1. 255 fuel pump
2. FPR/FMU/SFMU
3. Injectors (stock, 440's, 550's etc)
4. Tuning with (SAFC, SFMU, Megsqurit, etc)

Plan for:
Custom intercooler piping, buying an exhaust manifold, and whatever else is in the GSgoing fast tech article.

good luck

 

[firefly1241]

this is great thanks all for helping anymore tips would be appreciated

 

[GSGoinFast]

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181134

 

[firefly1241]

idk if anyone here can tell me this but is it posstible to bolt the turbo underneath the header instead of in front of them so its more like the 4g63 setup or no just asking for the simple fact that i like the look of the turbo but to me it would just look more sleek and if this is possible couldnt i just use the manifold and the headers of a 2g or 1g 4g63 engine ???

 

[VelocitàPaola]

idk if anyone here can tell me this but is it posstible to bolt the turbo underneath the header instead of in front of them so its more like the 4g63 setup or no just asking for the simple fact that i like the look of the turbo but to me it would just look more sleek and if this is possible couldnt i just use the manifold and the headers of a 2g or 1g 4g63 engine ???

You can't use a 4G63 manifold on a 420A; they're two different engines, so they have two different bolt patterns. Runner spacing is also an issue.

When you start piecing together your turbo kit, you'll likely need to purchase a custom made manifold. The log-style manifolds are more easily found, relatively efficient, and the cheapest. With this design, you can angle the turbo downwards, but it'll never look quite like the 4G63's configuration.

The 4G63 manifolds are cast with an "over and under" design. Log-style manifolds don't put enough distance between the collector and the engine for the "over" part, which makes the "under" part difficult without hitting the engine block.

If you're really obsessed with this idea, you can find someone to make a tubular style manifold. These flow exhaust gases well, but are extremely hard to find, expensive, and horribly unreliable unless made by the right person.

For instance, SSAutochrome sells a tubular SS manifold for around $300-$400, but the quality of their products has long been known to be sub-standard. When I went looking for someone to custom make me a tubular manifold, I got quotes for around $800 (you can find a very good log-style manifold for $300 or less). I've heard that this is partly because the materials necessary to make a quality tubular manifold are outrageously expensive, which accounts for this high final price.

In addition, the tubular manifolds tend to be overly-voluminous to achieve the holy grail of manifold manufacturers: equal length runners. For this reason, I've often seen tubular manifolds that required the user to pull both of their radiator fans (there wasn't even enough room for slimlines)! That can't be good - but then again, if you only drive in 45 minute intervals, you should be fine.


By the way, all of these turbo questions belong in a separate thread. Start a new one titled "My Turbo Project" or something, everyone else has done it...

 

[GSGoinFast]

You can't use a 4G63 manifold on a 420A; they're two different engines, so they have two different bolt patterns. Runner spacing is also an issue.

When you start piecing together your turbo kit, you'll likely need to purchase a custom made manifold. The log-style manifolds are more easily found, relatively efficient, and the cheapest. With this design, you can angle the turbo downwards, but it'll never look quite like the 4G63's configuration.

The 4G63 manifolds are cast with an "over and under" design. Log-style manifolds don't put enough distance between the collector and the engine for the "over" part, which makes the "under" part difficult without hitting the engine block.

If you're really obsessed with this idea, you can find someone to make a tubular style manifold. These flow exhaust gases well, but are extremely hard to find, expensive, and horribly unreliable unless made by the right person.

For instance, SSAutochrome sells a tubular SS manifold for around $300-$400, but the quality of their products has long been known to be sub-standard. When I went looking for someone to custom make me a tubular manifold, I got quotes for around $800 (you can find a very good log-style manifold for $300 or less). I've heard that this is partly because the materials necessary to make a quality tubular manifold are outrageously expensive, which accounts for this high final price.

In addition, the tubular manifolds tend to be overly-voluminous to achieve the holy grail of manifold manufacturers: equal length runners. For this reason, I've often seen tubular manifolds that required the user to pull both of their radiator fans (there wasn't even enough room for slimlines)! That can't be good - but then again, if you only drive in 45 minute intervals, you should be fine.


By the way, all of these turbo questions belong in a separate thread. Start a new one titled "My Turbo Project" or something, everyone else has done it...

Wow Paolo your too nice

 

[firefly1241]

wow thanx on the info pablo ill be sure to post the thread somewhere else srry about that its just alot of ppl were already helpin me here so i thought i could stay with it but thanx for all the helpful info and i guess that puts me on the way to turbo land