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Spyder top wont retract all the way

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ggaarryy

Probationary Member
10
0
Apr 7, 2005
beverly hills, California
97 Eclipse Sypder with 100k. Dont see my exact problem referred to in any other thread so forgive this newbie if it has been addressed or I am posting in the wrong forum.

Tried to put the top down for the first time in a few months. It retracts fine but stops about 90 percent of the way from retracting fully. The motor stops when it reaches that point as well. Last time I used it it worked fine.

It seems as if the corners of the rear seat are hitting the angle piece of the frame mechanism all of a sudden as best I can see. There is no play in the frame otherwise -- it just stops. Cover seems tight and folds okay too.

Here is a link with pictures:
http://home.comcast.net/~93explorer/index.html

Any advice on the problem and how to fix it would be very much appreciated.

Thanks,
GGaarryy
 
I don't have any 1st hand experience with this problem, but I know there is a TSB for bent control arms.

99-42A-007 Top Stack (Convertable Top) - Bent Control Link

Might want to call Satan and ask if that would keep the top from opening all the way. Also, have you tried to put the top down manually?
 
What is a TSB???

If I am seeing correctly in the pictures the peice that is catching on the seat should be straight. I have a problem with my top, when it begins to go back the second metal brace (for lack of better wording) is not being pulled back causing the first part of the top to actually crush it down and bend the metal pieces. Because of the bend they get caught on the rear seats. My suggestion would be to have someone slowly push the button while you watch EXACTLY what it is doing and where it is getting caught up. IF those pices are being crushed straighten them back out and try again.

Our problems could be completly different...just a thought
 
well the part that seems to be hitting the rear seat edge all of a sudden is the 'link' pictured in the diagram in the forum post "common spyder top problems' http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77418&highlight=top+retract

so it doesnt look any different than the diagram (ie, a 90 degree angle). and needs only maybe a half inch of clearance more on each side. I do find it funny that that clearance missing is pretty equal on both sides and the fact it happened without any warning signs.

good ideas so far thanks. I will check the tsb (technical service bulletin) and try to work it manually but think I'll have to wait for clear weather. I dont want to get it stuck down with rain coming :)

thanks again!

PS a search for tsb turned up this thread -- now I'm even more confused because I thought they were supposed to be bent -- and just why would they bend identically on each side???? grrrr http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99900
 
Wow...all of that is EXACTLY what mine is doing. I think I am going to go ahead and take the advice given and buy the new straps. I've kept putting it off because I didnt know what to do........

Thanks for posting the info you found!
 
Ok, to answer all of your questions:

1. There was a TSB on it, and it was fixed in 1999.
2. You need to get the straps to pull the top down for a 1999 model
3. Basically what happens is the straps for your 1998 or prior model is that they get worn out becuase they are made of elastic. The 1999's had straps that were not flexible at all.
4. If your not comfortable using a drill then try and have somebody do it, although it is very easy.
5. It took me about 30 minutes to do it and you only have to do 1 side.
6. Do not keep trying to get the top to go down you will end up breaking the teeth on the gears.

If you guys have any questions ask me, I've done the repair numerous times. :dsm:
 
gsturbo444 said:
What is a TSB???

If I am seeing correctly in the pictures the peice that is catching on the seat should be straight. I have a problem with my top, when it begins to go back the second metal brace (for lack of better wording) is not being pulled back causing the first part of the top to actually crush it down and bend the metal pieces. Because of the bend they get caught on the rear seats. My suggestion would be to have someone slowly push the button while you watch EXACTLY what it is doing and where it is getting caught up. IF those pices are being crushed straighten them back out and try again.

Our problems could be completly different...just a thought


It's this trust me, and a TSB is a Technical Service Bulletin. When there is a common problem with a certain model of a car they will issue a TSB or a nationwide Bulletin stating what goes wrong with the car so other technicians are not banging their heads against the wall trying to figure out what is wrong with it.

Hope this helps. If you guys were in the chicago area I'd fix it for ya. :p
 
I have never worked on a convertible top before. Could someone please explain to me in laymans terms how some straps can make these metal control links bend so that they suddenly start hitting the rear seat as they retract?

Also, if anyone has an acutal copy of the tsb I would appreciate it.

thanks,

Ggaarryy
 
1. The wide elastic straps providing tension for proper folding, connecting the 1st (floating) and 2nd rib, deteriorate and do not provide adequate tension for proper folding.
2. When lowering the top, the 1st (floating) rib does not get pulled into proper position for folding and the links that hold it into place become folded. Normally these links are nearly straight. After folding they become bent into a 90° angle and may even snap.
3. Bent links do not fit into the well. Forcing the roof into the well will like result in additional damage.
4. There are two rows of webbing that run the length of the roof to provide support. They are stapled onto plastic inserts in the ribs. When a roof with bent links is raised and clamped into position, excess tension is applied to webbing at the forward side of 1st rib (since the bent links now hold it too far back. As a result, the staples connecting the webbing start to pull out. Often only one leg of a staple will pull out and will puncture the roof fabric over time.
 
wret,

thanks. I think I am finally starting to figure it out. I found some other posts by you and had to chuckle at the one that said something about the 'links bending so perfectly you thought they were supposed to be that way" -- that was exactly my reaction to mine and a big part of me not understanding the problem!!! I also read with great interest your description of replacing the top. For the time being, I just bent the links to allow the top to retract to enjoy the nice weather but know that will only work a couple of times before the top is damaged or the links just break. It's amazing they didnt use a stiffer metal!!!!

Since the top is going anyway, I found a place that will do the control link repair and a new canvas top for about $1000. Compared with the control link parts about $150 and and a top about $500 to do it myself -- that seems like a pretty good price to avoid the dyi hassle.

thanks again,
Ggaarryy
 
If you haven't replaced your elastic tension straps, watch the floating rib EVERY time you lower the roof. It is easy to reach up and push it into proper position while you retract the roof. It only takes one time while you aren't watching to fold the links again.
 
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