Car wont start (Clutch Pedal all the way down)

[Chrispy0530]

So I was driving out to head to work and the car starts up fine with no problems. I go out like I normally do approaching a gate that I have to wait for till it opens. Rolling to a stop I go from 1st gear to neutral(I didn't use the clutch this time for some reason) and the car stops.

But when I go to press the clutch to engage 1st gear, the clutch fly's all the way down to the floor. Not knowing why, I try to pick it back up and press it again. Same reaction. Car is completely unable to shift so I turn the car off. Was able to shift everywhere again but the clutch still has no pressure. So I try to start the car and it feels like its locked when it trys to turn over.

Any idea's?

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

Your clutch release fork is broken and it's probably just binding up in there and not letting the clutch/flywheel turn. Hopefully there's no damage to the pressure plate or anything else. Either way she's got to come apart now.

 

[oldman420]

That sucks man, good luck on the repairs.

 

[Chrispy0530]

Damn that Transmission is almost new too. I'm just going to have to take the clutch release fork off of my old tranny and put it on that one.

Hopefully I can get it towed to my dads shop tomorrow. Saturday I'll be able to do the swap from my old tranny to the new one.

 

[SiNiST3R]

Hate to say it but I knew you should look at that

It could be many things

You have a throw out bearing toasted or stuck in pressure plate, pin popping off, not shimmed pivot ball ect. Really its an easy fix if you know how to work on dsms Nothing is wrong with your tranny most likely so don't sweat it. Worst is it shoved the throw out bearing into the pressure plate . Upgrade your clutch and upgrade to a SS clutch line also and be on your happy way glad I could help your prob GL



PS I hate DSMs

 

[k2crasher]

Sorry to hear about your luck. If it was me I would buy a new shift fork as opposed to using the one off your old tranny. Also check your petal adjustment under the dash, make sure you aren't extending your slave cylinder too far, that might have contributed to the fork breaking.

 

[SiNiST3R]

Right , I'm gonna post this here so you can come back to it when your adjusting your clutch next time.

YouTube - Proper Clutch Adjustment

 

[Chrispy0530]

Yeah, about replacing the shift fork, the only reason I'm not buying a new one is because funds are currently low for me atm.

Upgrade your clutch

Please don't tell me that . This is the current set up I have right now.
Exedy Twin Metallic DSM - Amsperformance.com

 

[SiNiST3R]

Who installed this and how long ago - this might be the FAIL of your problems.

 

[Chrispy0530]

Step uncle did it for me about a month ago.

 

[Dsmj89]

Oh yeah that is deffinately not right, i knew your fork was bad as i told you on the phone, it was a probability. I would start ordering a brand new oem piece if i were you.

 

[SiNiST3R]

Ask your uncle if he shimmed the pivot joint ie put a washer under it.

 

[Chrispy0530]

Don't think so. I'm gonna go ahead and say no.

 

[SeaveeDSM]

Chris,

Have Luis call me today to coordinate picking up the brand new OEM clutch fork, OEM Throw Out Bearing I have here and get them from him. I probably won't be able to drop by the shop Friday evening so better you have these in hand already when you drop the tranny then.

Oh, I also have a new in the box OEM slave cylinder if you need it but after now seeing the thread it does seem the clutch fork is likely busted and/or the TOB. Make absolutely sure the starter motor is not bad but from your pic it sure looks like clutch fork is broken and/or jammed which as someone else said may be impeding the starter motor from properly engaging flywheel to get the engine to turn over. Once you get her on the lift and the driver's wheel off use socket and ratchet to manually turn the crank pulley and thus make sure the engine itself is not internally seized somehow. Doubtful based on your account of how this all went down but that just takes a minute to confirm.

If the flywheel has been damaged by either part breaking you will likely need to have it resurfaced too. If it wasn't directly damaged when the fork and/or tob broke and it was properly resurfaced (or was brand new if aftermarket) at the time the tranny was installed a month or so ago you might not need to have it resurfaced now.... Also gonna have to look at the pressure plate's wear condition. If it too is almost new then its probably OK. I'm guessing the cost of flywheel resurface is about $30 or so. Before the week is up try to find a machine shop open on Saturday that could do it in case its needed. If you need a new Pressure Plate its gonna be hard to source that between Friday night and Saturday....

Regardless of if at the end they are busted or not, do NOT put back in a used fork or TOB. And don't leave other stuff which is bad or marginal uncorrected (i.e. if applicable flywheel resurface or pressure plate with bad wear, etc). You are just asking for continued problems and the enormous hassle of having to drop and replace the tranny again and its not worth it for parts so relatively inexpensive (at least in the case of the fork and tob). Pay me whenever you are able for these - no rush in the short term.

Finally, watch the video linked above in this thread. The clutch adjustment is super easy and that video explains the process perfectly. Jackstransmissions has a few other similarly helpful videos on their website.

Hope you can get it back up and running before the meet Sunday....

 

[15psi88]

I haven't dug real deep and I'm not saying this is the case but...
I read somewhere that there is a pedal stop needed for the PTT(I believe) twin disk. Any chance of it being the same case with the Exedy?

 

[dsm_billy]

good luck whit the repairs shud buy new fork so u know everything is fresh u know

 

[GusGst97]

I'm having the same issue with my car. I just did the clutch, slave cylinder, and clutch master cylinder. The pedal still goes all the way down and won't come back up. Now the car won't start. The car started up before fine before we took it apart.
Any help?

 

[chrysler kid]

Can you spin the tires freely when the car is in the air or are they locked in position like the car is in gear

Did you properly bleed the master and the slave?

Air in the lines will often give the symptoms you are describing

 

[GusGst97]

I haven't tried spinning the tires. I bench bled the slave and master before putting them on. Then we started to bleed the entire system. Every time we bleed it there will be a bubble in the master. It's not all the time. It happens randomly.

 

[chrysler kid]

It's not the same but it is, I've had problems bleeding clutch and slave masters without using a vacuum pump

Basically I use a vacuum gun with the little attachment to sit in the bottom of the reservoir, pull a little vacuum like 2-3 pumps of the gun, then get in the car and slowly depress the clutch pedal, slowly raise it off the floor, then depress it again.

Basically when you connect the line coming off of the master the air bubble sits inside the master itself and the only way to get it out is to slowly depress and then slowly lift the pedal so that the air bubble can be sucked out from the top (the way the air bubble wants to go naturally anyways.). Some times it was just from pouring the dot 3 in the master, but it seemed like the fluid itself retained air bubbles

I had an off the shelf assembly from gm for my ls1 slave master and line all bench bled but some how still had a bubble in the clutch master itself

With a vacuum on the reservoir I can usually get a solid pedal in 3-4 slow pumps of the clutch pedal

You should be able to position the vacuum gun so that you can see the clear line coming out of the master with the fluid under suction in it. When you start pressing the clutch pedal you will see the fluid level rise and small looking carbonation bubbles. Repeat until that fluid in the clear line to the vacuum gun stops drawing bubbles

 

[GusGst97]

My buddy that's helping me is gonna take his vacuum bleeder tomorrow. We're gonna try that and hopefully it fixes it. If not I'll be back on here again. LoL

 

[chrysler kid]

It should give you a strong pedal, I'm guessing the no start is from the clutch being fully depressed on the trans on startup

The ls1 fbodies and C5 corvettes are notorious for having random pedal pressure issues and the best way I've found to fix it is with clean fluid and a vacuum gun. They are $34 at most autoparts stores, you can also rent one from them as well