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Some wires and a noise (pics and vid)

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DSM_munky_man

10+ Year Contributor
1,128
6
Sep 20, 2010
Tulsa, Oklahoma
Alright boys, changing the oil today and seen some wires that one was cut and the other was just a plug not sure where it goes, I am guessing BCS but want to make sure. It is in the right area and is part of the MAF harness and is kinda laying under the filter by the UICP. Next is a one wire plug that is on the Throttle cable and it is just cut, whats this for and do i need to hook it back up? And the vid, the noise is coming from the transmission. I used a long extension as a stethoscope I just need to know what the sound is and what i need to do to fix it. It goes away when I push the clutch in. and if I take the clutch out, once all the way out it does it again.

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You can't really hear it in the vid I guess but it sounds like a scrathching recipricating scratching sound. like something is loose? It only does it sometimes more noticably in change of rpms. never noticed it till now?
 

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the noise sounds like the TOB. mine does that too. i dont know what causes it or anything but thats what it is.
 
first pic looks like the stock boost solenoid plug, dont worry bout it if u have a manual boost controller. and the second just strip and put a female connector on it and take off that plug its next to and reconnect it.

Alright, thank you. what is that for though? Idle validation?

the noise sounds like the TOB. mine does that too. i dont know what causes it or anything but thats what it is.

Ic, is it necessarily a bad thing? Meaning I will have to replace the clutch and stuff soon?
 
Alright, thank you. what is that for though? Idle validation?



Ic, is it necessarily a bad thing? Meaning I will have to replace the clutch and stuff soon?

You should plug in the stock Boost contoller, you might be throwing a code if you dont. You just dont need to have the vac lines going to it.
 
not sure what its for cant remember now LOL

haha alright, if you think of it post it! :thumb:

You should plug in the stock Boost contoller, you might be throwing a code if you dont. You just dont need to have the vac lines going to it.

No codes for that as of a week or 2 ago. Only a coolant temp sensor code and a CAS code, both intermittent. I think the solenoid is completely gone though, cause I looked down there and I didnt see anything for it to plug to.
 
Alright, thank you. what is that for though? Idle validation?

It is the Idle Position Switch. All it does is tell the ECU when the throttle plate is closed.

No codes for that as of a week or 2 ago. Only a coolant temp sensor code and a CAS code, both intermittent. I think the solenoid is completely gone though, cause I looked down there and I didnt see anything for it to plug to.

He's thinking about a 2g. On a 2g if you remove the stock BCS it will throw a code, not so on a 1g.
 
Alright, thank you. what is that for though? Idle validation?

It's the Idle Switch: 1G Idle Switch

As mentioned, the other is for the stock boost control solenoid, it is easily detachable from the car so if it is missing and you don't have a code, don't worry about it: 1G BCS

Edit: This is the third time in the past week I've been too slow... 9!'clipseDOHC has it covered
 
Edit: This is the third time in the past week I've been too slow... 9!'clipseDOHC has it covered

:thumb: A couple of weeks ago you kept beating me to the post, it's my turn! ;)


first pic looks like the stock boost solenoid plug, dont worry bout it if u have a manual boost controller. and the second just strip and put a female connector on it and take off that plug its next to and reconnect it.

Correct, good advice!
 
So with that not connected would that be a reason for intermintant high idle? Cause it will idle fine sometimes, mostly when warm, but when started cold and drove for a few minutes, even after warmed up it will idle like 1200-1500? What about the idle surge problem we have? Could this be part of it?

And thanks to both you of you and anyone else helping out! Doing great!! :thumb:
 
Ya i knew that, i just figured maybe this would be a part of it due to the engine not know if it is in idle or not and searching for the right rpm.
 
So with that not connected would that be a reason for intermintant high idle? Cause it will idle fine sometimes, mostly when warm, but when started cold and drove for a few minutes, even after warmed up it will idle like 1200-1500? What about the idle surge problem we have? Could this be part of it?

And thanks to both you of you and anyone else helping out! Doing great!! :thumb:

It's possible. Fix that wire ASAP, it will take like 5 minutes to fix (all you need is a female spade connector) and then go from there.

If it doesn't fix it, check your ISC:
check your ISC

Adjust your idle (BISS), and go from there. Idle problems are notorious on DSM's but they can be fixed. My car finally idles perfect (it took me a while though)!
 
Alright, Thanks for the links. I am not to worried about it at the moment as it only does it once in a while, and recently I havent noticed it.
 
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