Some powder coating I did this weekend

[usmc0651dns]

I decided to do a little restore work on the GSX since it is currently out of commission. Here are a few of the parts I did. I did pretty much everything metal I could find. I know my color choices were pretty bland with exception of the candy red valve cover and radiator brackets, but let me know what you think.

 

[Maverick4g63]

Looks good man. Whats your powder coating setup? I would love to do this stuff as well.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Looks good.

 

[Mph]

Yeah, I want to know what method you used! Looks great!

 

[army94e]

What color is that on the valve cover? Looks really nice, good work!

 

[razrman8]

What color is that on the valve cover? Looks really nice, good work!

I decided to do a little restore work on the GSX since it is currently out of commission. Here are a few of the parts I did. I did pretty much everything metal I could find. I know my color choices were pretty bland with exception of the candy red valve cover and radiator brackets, but let me know what you think.

Badabing.

 

[usmc0651dns]

I grabbed a HotCoat setup by Eastwood, the dual wattage (higher end) one. The valve cover is done in "translucent red" I believe. Also from Eastwood. For my first experience I am highly pleased.

 

[army94e]

I grabbed a HotCoat setup by Eastwood, the dual wattage (higher end) one. The valve cover is done in "translucent red" I believe. Also from Eastwood. For my first experience I am highly pleased.

Thanks!

 

[ILoveMyTsi]

Nice work for sure. I really like that color of red also.

 

[usmc0651dns]

I wasn't too sure about it when I saw it online or on the color chip chart that came with the gun. It was the closest to the look that I was going for so I decided to chance it. 8 ounces runs about $17 shipped and I was able to do the valve cover, fuel rail, and radiator brackets. Like I said earlier, I want a nice clean look and just a little accent of the red. Hopefully I can get everything put back on and get some bay pictures within the next weekend or two. Damn full time work!

 

[army94e]

I normally prefer the shaved look to be clean, but that color makes it look really good.

 

[bradselph]

I love that red!
Couldn't you leave the letters silver though? It would be 100 times better. IMO

 

[3kgt2nv]

Check out columbia coatings for a better quality powder and cheaper prices.

 

[phunny]

Are you planning on exposing the lettering?

 

[ILLiCliPSE]

I like the intake manifold, personally . Stock...I love that. Is that actually a color? Or is that just sand blasted and cleared or something?

 

[Mph]

Hey OP, can you post links to where you purchased your setup??

 

[hurricanecris24]

Eastwood.com

 

[motozachl]

Manifold looks hott

 

[usmc0651dns]

Manifold is "platinum". If you have the time to wait for an auction to end, eBay is where I got my gun. Eastwood is a seller on there and the stuff is actually cheaper than on the site by a few bucks (powder). I saved about $20 - $30 on the gun by bidding instead of buying on the site. Everything was brand new of course.

I would love to have shaved the VC completely before coating but I don't really have the time. I may polish the lettering in the near future. I would prefer that look as well. My main thing now is to get the car back up and running.

 

[army94e]

This is true, you can always buy a cheap VC later and have the time to really have at it! Good luck with coating in the future

 

[Detective Coating]

Not bad for your first parts. My suggestion for the valve cover would be to shoot your faraday areas first like the corners and where there are 90 degree angles. It looks like the coating is pretty light in those areas. You may want to check your ground if you're having trouble in those areas. Get a solid earth ground using a copper rod drilled into mother earth and run a wire from that to your rack, your quality of work will improve greatly with this. The intake looks like it was undercured, are you using an IR thermometer to monitor when your parts get up to temperature and then curing them for the 10-15 minutes once it reaches the correct PMT?

 

[usmc0651dns]

Thanks for the advice. Honestly I was just looking for a more durable and cost effective solution than the ole rattle can. Once I get my garage setup I will definitely look into the more stable grounding solution. I was thinking of a second coat on the VC but not sure. I will coat it again when my BOV comes in as I will be coating the top of it to match. I have an extra, dedicated oven setup for coating. I haven't went as far as to check the surface temp of parts while coating. I have been adhering to the 20 minute rule of thumb as outlined by Eastwood in the manual. If I get more time and become more serious with my coatings I will pick up the thermometer gun. Great input!

 

[Detective Coating]

Thanks for the advice. Honestly I was just looking for a more durable and cost effective solution than the ole rattle can. Once I get my garage setup I will definitely look into the more stable grounding solution. I was thinking of a second coat on the VC but not sure. I will coat it again when my BOV comes in as I will be coating the top of it to match. I have an extra, dedicated oven setup for coating. I haven't went as far as to check the surface temp of parts while coating. I have been adhering to the 20 minute rule of thumb as outlined by Eastwood in the manual. If I get more time and become more serious with my coatings I will pick up the thermometer gun. Great input!

If you want it to be the most durable you will need to cure the parts longer. Eastwoods timing is vague and not correct. The valve cover for example normally takes about 40 minutes total to reach the correct PMT and to fully cure. The second coat on the vc won't work since its already cured, you willl have to start over since you've touched it. At a minimum for the smaller, thinner parts I would stick to 25 minutes. Anything bigger or thicker, leave them in a little longer.

 

[2GbTalonGuy]

Those look great. Good work.