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So I think I have ECU problems, help determine

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DSMGary

10+ Year Contributor
113
1
Jun 27, 2010
Toronto, ON, Canada
I have a similar issue to this one:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/304579-possible-ecu-problems-fixed-bad-ecu.html

Sorry for starting a new thread but my problem is slightly different. My car sat for 1 month as i was out of the country on business. Today i decided it was time to go for a cruise with my beloved dsm. The car started right away, i let it warm up for about 3-4 mins. Started to back out of the driveway, made it in to the middle of the street when car decided to stall. While it was sputtering to a stall, i heard the "clicking" sounds from behind the radio (in and around the ecu). I tried to push it up into my driveway but coudn't. I have a steady slope and the car is too heavy to push for me. So i tried to start it numerous times, it would stall out right away or would sputter to a stall. It smells like gas. My thought is that the ecu has decided to not send a spark signal anymore.

1) Is this an ECU issue or do i have something else going on?
2) Would a car start after sitting for a month and die like this all of a sudden with no prior warnings?
3) What do i do now?:coy:
 
Open up the ecu and take a look if the capacitors are original or if they've leaked. There are examples of bad ecus here: ecurepairhome [ECMTuning - wiki]

Since it sounds like you are hearing the mpi relay click, when the car wasn't starting did you see the CE light come on when you first turned the key to "ON"? The boost gauge should also go to zero. If this isn't happening, your ecu isn't turning on which is more than likely capacitor damage (or the mpi relay has opened). Let us know what you find.
 
Okay, So i just so happen to have an ECU hanging around. Well actually its one that i have been trying to sell for some time now. Nobody wanted a non-eprom one. My luck i guess. I swapped the ecu's out and the car started right away, just came back from a 2 hour drive.

Questions:

1) I did open up the "bad" ECU, I was not able to see any leaking caps. Any thoughts on this?

2) I am going to send one of the 2 ECUs to ECMTuning for the linkV3. Which one should i send? Do i send the working one so i save on some bench time? or Do I send the bad one and have it repaired so i have 2 ECUs, one with Link and one without.

Note: both are non-eprom ECUs, therefore i would have to have them retrofitted for the link.

:rocks:
 
Questions:

1) I did open up the "bad" ECU, I was not able to see any leaking caps. Any thoughts on this?

2) I am going to send one of the 2 ECUs to ECMTuning for the linkV3. Which one should i send? Do i send the working one so i save on some bench time? or Do I send the bad one and have it repaired so i have 2 ECUs, one with Link and one without.

Note: both are non-eprom ECUs, therefore i would have to have them retrofitted for the link.

:rocks:

I am following the rules/regulations/requests; a request reads: Post in the correct forum, not the Newbie forum just because it's busy.

Hate to say it, but getting a response in the newbie forum is much quicker and much more vast. All i have is 2 simple questions as a matter of opinion. Hence the bump, mods might not like it.

So anyways, anybody have any thoughts to my 2 questions? Thanks in advance!:)
 
Just because you don't see the leakage, doesn't necessarily mean it isn't leaking. If swapping the ecus does fix the problem, there's more than likely something wrong with the one ecu.

Does the "good" ecu still have original caps? If so, I would send that in before it goes bad also. It's just a matter of time before it does. It should be less to convert that one than the one that already needs repair. Unless you happen to see a bunch of leakage on the good one. Then, it probably won't matter which one you send in.

Hope that helps.
 
It may cost you another $90 to have it repaired. If you have the extra cash, then go for it. It's always good to have a spare ecu. But even with your spare ECU, it may only work for a period of time until it goes too. So even if you send the good one I would have the caps replaced too.
 
Thanks for all the feedback. I will send the working one out to ECM tuning. Get the new caps and socket conversion.

I have some pictures of the "bad" ecu.

1) Does anyone know why there is white goop on the screws? Does this indicate a rebuilt unit? (i have never seen the goop on any Mitsu ecu, i have had afew dodge colts before)

2) Does anyone see any obvious damage that i missed?

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It doesn't look rebuilt (hard to tell from directly overhead, c106 may have been replaced.) so the paint is more likely added by a junk yard or reseller to note if somebody opening it up or swapped boards after the sale and tried to return it.
 
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