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1G Snapped Clutch Pedal Bolt, Need Opinion

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The Clutch fork (upgraded), pivot ball, and throw-out bearing have all been replaced and only have a few hundred miles on it. Could this be a leaky MC, or SC? I do not see any fluid anywhere, but I am unsure why the fork wouldn't go back to its original position. Any ideas on this one?

Are you sure it is the fork that is getting stuck? Or is it the slave cylinder that is getting stuck?
Squeeze the boot that is on the end of the slave cylinder. With your fingers, and be careful that it might squirt at your face if there is any fluid in there.
If the cylinder is leaking, it can accumulate in the boot and not leak out onto the floor at all, until you squeeze the boot.
Or pull that boot off.
Also like Mech Addict said, take the fork window boot off and you might see something that way too.
 
Thank you for the responses!

Mech Addict, I'll have to do that and see if I can see anything getting caught in there, hopefully its nothing serious requiring me to take the tranny off again.

That's a good point We're on Boost, I shouldn't have over looked the slave cylinder, not sure why I didn't think of checking that while I was out there. Thank you, I will look into this as soon as I can.
 
When it is stuck its far to the left (passenger side from my angle). and when resting normal Its a little past the halfway mark in favor of the right side (drivers side). It is not hitting the bell housing. I'm also currently looking into the clutch needing readjusted, specifically the release valve, due to the new assembly still having the adjustment of the old assembly.
 
While its stuck you might loosen the slave bolts and see if it remains. Would rule out hydraulics. If its sticking after that i would say time to drop trans. You may be looking at cause and effect here also. One problem causing two issues. Problem inside the bellhousing causing sticking and excess pressure on the system that snapped your clutch pedal.
 
Thank you for the response! It would be nice for one fix to rule them all. So let me try to explain in better detail of what is happening now. Whats happening now isnt what was going on when it initially broke.

So after I move the pivot fork back into its correct position, the clutch pedal feels normal and nice until it gets close to the floor, then the pedal just gets stuck at the floor. Once I pull the pedal off the floor and try to compress it at all it feels like a brick and wont move at all. I believe this is because the fork stays in the left position, then when the pedal gets pulled back and compressed again it is trying to fight the fork pushing it even farther where it cant go. Once I reset the fork its the same thing over and over. Clutch feels fine until it hits the floor, fork stays pinned when the pedal is manually pulled back, then there is no movement in the system.

I am still working on diagnosing it on the forums (looking into different adjustments and the release valve for the fluid) and will keep this post as updated as I can. Thank you all for the help and input!
 
Have you tried pauleyman’s suggestion of trying to move the slave cylinder pushrod by hand when the clutch fork won’t move back, but you have pulled the pedal back by hand. It should move at least slowly with only hand force. That would help rule out misadjustment.
 
Thank you for the response! It would be nice for one fix to rule them all. So let me try to explain in better detail of what is happening now. Whats happening now isnt what was going on when it initially broke.

So after I move the pivot fork back into its correct position, the clutch pedal feels normal and nice until it gets close to the floor, then the pedal just gets stuck at the floor. Once I pull the pedal off the floor and try to compress it at all it feels like a brick and wont move at all. I believe this is because the fork stays in the left position, then when the pedal gets pulled back and compressed again it is trying to fight the fork pushing it even farther where it cant go. Once I reset the fork its the same thing over and over. Clutch feels fine until it hits the floor, fork stays pinned when the pedal is manually pulled back, then there is no movement in the system.

I am still working on diagnosing it on the forums (looking into different adjustments and the release valve for the fluid) and will keep this post as updated as I can. Thank you all for the help and input!
Just my guess.
To me, sounds like the SC is the one stuck for some reason, maybe the SC's wall is badly damaged or dirty and disturbing the piston to return. When OP pulls the pedal off the floor, only the MC piston goes back with sucking the clutch fluid from reservoir tank and the SC piston stays at the same location, that's why next time when he tries to depress the pedal he feels like a brick and the pedal won't move at all. Even if the fork is stuck, if he pulls the pedal off the floor by hand, both cylinders would generally go back and at leas he can depress the pedal at next time.
If that's the case, replacing both cylinders would probably solve the issue.
 
Just my guess.
To me, sounds like the SC is the one stuck for some reason, maybe the SC's wall is badly damaged or dirty and disturbing the piston to return. When OP pulls the pedal off the floor, only the MC piston goes back with sucking the clutch fluid from reservoir tank and the SC piston stays at the same location, that's why next time when he tries to depress the pedal he feels like a brick and the pedal won't move at all. Even if the fork is stuck, if he pulls the pedal off the floor by hand, both cylinders would generally go back and at leas he can depress the pedal at next time.
If that's the case, replacing both cylinders would probably solve the issue.
Exactly my (pauleyman’s) suspicion.
 
Hey guys, quick update. I hopped under the car to look at the SC and it looks like the previous owner used random bolts that were way too short. The SC was no longer attached to anything and was just laying there with the rod just jammed at an angle into the clutch fork. I spent the day replacing the SC and installing a stainless steel line and the clutch feels amazing. Still needs slight adjustment, it engages too far off the ground now exact opposite compared to before, and needs a road test then I can give a final update. Thanks to everyone who have helped me on this issue and lets hope this thing is fixed!
 
I spent the day replacing the SC and installing a stainless steel line and the clutch feels amazing.

The new line you put in, is it the kind that goes all the way back to the master cylinder?
If it is, could you get a shot of it where it goes into the master? Might help me with something for future info.
 
Yes, it is the full line that goes from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. I will see if I can get you a photo tomorrow. It just goes into the side of the master cylinder exactly where the old line is, facing toward the passenger side of the car.
 
Yes, it is the full line that goes from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. I will see if I can get you a photo tomorrow. It just goes into the side of the master cylinder exactly where the old line is, facing toward the passenger side of the car.

Ok great!
The line I know of looks to me like it's made really for 2g, but I think some people also are using it on 1g. The difference is whether there is a 90 deg turn at the master end of the line or not.
Well whatever line you have, I'd love to see a shot that shows the passenger side of the master and a little bit of the firewall in that area so it's clear how the line runs there.
The line I know of is this one with the 90 deg turn, sold by STM and maybe a few other people:

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Ok great!
The line I know of looks to me like it's made really for 2g, but I think some people also are using it on 1g. The difference is whether there is a 90 deg turn at the master end of the line or not.
Well whatever line you have, I'd love to see a shot that shows the passenger side of the master and a little bit of the firewall in that area so it's clear how the line runs there.
The line I know of is this one with the 90 deg turn, sold by STM and maybe a few other people:

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You can use a 90 degree fitting on 1G but there is a straight fitting kit, too. or you can build your own by buying the parts separately.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Master-to-Slave-Cylinder-Complete-Clutch-Line-1990-1994-Eclipse-DSM-4G63-Turbo/190723619148?fits=Model:Eclipse&hash=item2c6803794c:g:lZIAAOSwwyVfxEnC
 
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Hey guys, quick update. I hopped under the car to look at the SC and it looks like the previous owner used random bolts that were way too short. The SC was no longer attached to anything and was just laying there with the rod just jammed at an angle into the clutch fork. I spent the day replacing the SC and installing a stainless steel line and the clutch feels amazing. Still needs slight adjustment, it engages too far off the ground now exact opposite compared to before, and needs a road test then I can give a final update. Thanks to everyone who have helped me on this issue and lets hope this thing is fixed!
I gotta ask, how did you not notice this when previously unsticking things?
 
I was only looking at it through the top of the engine bay, I could see the fork and the rod at low light and that was about it. That and a long day of working on it I was pretty checked out for the day. As soon as I got underneath it was obvious. Great excuse to upgrade the lines.

We’re On Boost mine was a straight piece, I’ll get you a picture as soon as I’m in contact with the car.
 
Thanks Hiroshi. Is that ebay line the one you use on your car?
I have that kit and a Techna Fit kit, too. the one in the link below. But I don't remember which one is on my 1g right now. All kit is almost the same, just a -3AN SS braided line with a AN to metric fitting, a banjo bolt and crush washers. So actually no big difference.
https://www.technafitstore.com/Mitsubishi-Eclipse-4-1989-1994-p/mccl-1g.htm

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I have that kit and a Techna Fit kit, too. the one in the link below. But I don't remember which one is on my 1g right now. All kit is almost the same, just a -3AN SS braided line with a AN to metric fitting, a banjo bolt and crush washers. So actually no big difference.
https://www.technafitstore.com/Mitsubishi-Eclipse-4-1989-1994-p/mccl-1g.htm

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Ahh good info, thanks!
When I was replacing my master and slave I realized it would be a lot easier working on those things if they had a flexible line like this. But I never found either of these kits.
 
I don’t get it; where does the banjo get attached? I just replaced my clutch MC and slave, and didn’t have a banjo on either. :confused:

It comes already assembled to the slave cylinder.
Like in this picture of a slave cylinder, the banjo fitting is the silvery colored part that is right below the bleeder nipple:

md733623-oem-mitsubishi-slave-cylinder-1g-dsm-awd-gsx2_1024x1024-stm-jpg.616703




In the picture it has a black rubber cap over the threaded port that you put the hydraulic line into.
So the line that goes there runs pretty much parallel to the cylinder.
 
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