1G Snapped Clutch Pedal Bolt, Need Opinion

[Uncle Jacks Hands]

We're On Boost, here is my setup as well, which is probably the exact same as DSMPTs.
Mech Addict, I threw in a couple shots of the SC as well for your reference.

 

[We're on Boost]

We're On Boost, here is my setup as well, which is probably the exact same as DSMPTs.

Yeah! Good deal, thanks.

 

[XC92]

Could I jump in and ask what's the advantage of a flexible braided stainless steel line over either the stock hard line or a replacement line?

I'm about to replace the slave on my 1G AWD because it appears to be leaking, but if that doesn't fix it and it's the line, I've got to replace that too and am wondering what with.

I have some brake line NICOPP and fittings that I could use, and I've practiced making double flares, but if SS is better for some reason, I'd consider that instead.

 

[Uncle Jacks Hands]

So someone can jump in as I am not an expert, but I believe it is to prevent future rust/corrosion issues as well as be more efficient over the rubber/flex piece pressure wise so it has a firmer more consistent brake.

 

[We're on Boost]

Could I jump in and ask what's the advantage of a flexible braided stainless steel line over either the stock hard line or a replacement line?

I'm about to replace the slave on my 1G AWD because it appears to be leaking, but if that doesn't fix it and it's the line, I've got to replace that too and am wondering what with.

I have some brake line NICOPP and fittings that I could use, and I've practiced making double flares, but if SS is better for some reason, I'd consider that instead.

Well I think there are pros and cons.
For me the main pro of the 1 piece full length flexible line is that it would be easier to maneuver into position when you want to line it up with the port where you put it into the cylinder. I would have appreciated that little help a few times.
And they are easier to buy, once you know where to buy them. (The 2 links given by DSMPT)
And they might even be cheaper than just about any other way of doing it.

With one line going the full length you wouldn't be using those U shaped wave spring clips, which might be another plus. I had a hard time putting the wave clip back in that is closest to the slave, and kind of mangled that one pretty bad. Wish I could buy some new ones but I haven't found them new anywhere yet.

On the other hand, the Stainless braided lines still have a liner inside (should be Teflon) and the liner + braid are not quite as rigid to internal pressure as an ordinary full on steel hard line. But they are pretty rigid and should last a long time. People get good results with them.
The OEM rubber hose that is about 1 foot long seems to have some type of internal braiding that makes it pretty rigid but I've never cut one open to see what is in there. It should be an internal braid made of nylon or something similar.
I wanted to check out posts I've seen that complain about the OEM rubber hose "ballooning". So with the new hose on there, this is the OEM hose that is fairly smooth on the outside surface so you can measure it with a caliper or a micrometer, I measured the OD of it at no pedal pressure, and again at full pressure (pedal to the floor compliments of a helpful neighbor). Could not tell any difference. Meaning it was probably something less than .001 of an inch. This was with my trusty Mitutoyo dial caliper #505-637 which I've been using since the early 80's. I don't know, maybe they start ballooning when they are 20 years old or something.

I stuck with the OEM lines because my long hard line that runs from the master was in great shape, looked like new, no mangled threads, no mangled flares, no corrosion. All the routing of it, and the clamps that hold it in place, all that stuff was perfect, so I just didn't feel like ripping it out if I could get the other 2 lines new, which I could. But the short steel line that goes into the slave, that had to come from Japan and it cost about $20 and took 3 weeks.

 

[XC92]

But doesn't NICOPP kind of give you the advantage of both, the strength of steel with the flexibility of hose? Well, not quite as flexible but certainly more so than steel. Hopefully I won't have to replace any of the line, but if I do have to, it's what I was going to go with.

Btw, how does one detect where a leak is? If air is coming in, during the pedal release stage, then doesn't that mean that fluid should be coming out, during the clutch disengage stage (i.e. when you press on the pedal)? Or are there pernicious leaks with there's no fluid coming out?

 

[We're on Boost]

But doesn't NICOPP kind of give you the advantage of both, the strength of steel with the flexibility of hose? Well, not quite as flexible but certainly more so than steel. Hopefully I won't have to replace any of the line, but if I do have to, it's what I was going to go with.

Btw, how does one detect where a leak is? If air is coming in, during the pedal release stage, then doesn't that mean that fluid should be coming out, during the clutch disengage stage (i.e. when you press on the pedal)? Or are there pernicious leaks with there's no fluid coming out?

Oh ok, if you were going to make up your own metal lines from scratch, I would say use the Nickel Copper stuff probably. I mean it would be a lot more formable than steel line and a lot more corrosion resistant. When I say "steel" line I mean just plain steel like OEM hard lines are made from, not stainless steel.
So it should be a lot more formable than any steel (stainless or not), therefore easier to get good results when you are making flares or bending. It could still kink in bending so the tool and the care used there would be important. I've never used it but I'm pretty sure it would not be flexible anywhere near what rubber is, for bending. But even rubber hose has a minimum bend radius (without kinking) that you can look up in the manufacturer's catalog if it is any kind of industrial hose. I think that formable metal tube can be bent to a smaller bend radius than reinforced rubber hose of same ID, if you have a proper bending tool for it. But if you are only talking about that short metal line that goes into the slave, you won't need a small bend radius.
The strength and rigidity for holding pressure without elastic deformation would be better than rubber for sure.
The strength and rigidity for resisting dents when you drop your tool box on it might not be so hot.

That problem that seems like air coming in, but no fluid leaking out - I don't know what to make of that.
Fluid can move back and forth freely between the reservoir and the rest of the system when the master piston is fully retracted (all the way aft) or anywhere in the first 1 or 2 mm of its travel from full aft. Maybe it has something to do with that. But I don't really get it what's going on in your case.

 

[XC92]

I'm pretty sure the leak is in the slave. When I press the piston in there's very little resistance, a kind of "whoosh" sound, and air comes out the bleeder tube. I'm just allowing for the possibility that there could be another leak elsewhere. Hopefully not as forming clutch line isn't something I view as fun.

 

[92AWDHX40]

I used the ss line because my oem one broke, and its nice and shiny.