Smokes only when i brake hard

[Maudio909]

Hey guys whats going on i do apologize if this question has been put up already. But i have been searching the forums and i cant find this anywhere on here at all.
Anyway i just got back into the DSM world and boy em i glad to be back ".

Ok so heres the deal guys i just bought a 97 Eclipse GST about 1 day ago.
The car seems to be running fine with no problems, Well i just noticed when im driving the car and get on the gas and come to a stop and brake hard it throws smoke out of the exhaust for some reason. The color of the smoke it looks white to me. But i cant figure it out i turn the car on let it ilde no smoke. Only when i drive and then come to a stop it smokes like crazy. Now i just got the car back from the shop today here is what i had done
Oil Change
Spark Plugs
Coolant Flush
New Fan
New Ac Pulley

So they i got on it today and the car started backfireing like crazy on me still smoking only when i brake PLEASE I NEED ADVICE PLEASE guys anything will help
Heres some mods on the car guys
16g evo turbo
greddy intake
greddy rs bov
greddy intercooler
apexi turbo timer
greddy turbo back exhuast

 

[Dsmkauai]

I would check your vac lines and Pcv system to ensure thing are flowing and working properly. The only thing tied into your brakes is a vac line for the brake booster, it maybe that when your on the brakes hard it's taking to much of the vacuum and your crank case isn't venting fast enough. I don't know bro just a thought.

 

[architechnik]

Is your BOV recirculated? If not, you're probably getting a lot of fuel dumped in when the BOV vents.

 

[WES_393]

So the car smokes (and now stutters) when you literal apply pressure to the brake pedal while at higher speed, but not smoking or stalling when letting off the gas without brakes?

Is the BOV recirculated? Are you losing any brake fluid that your aware of?

 

[Maudio909]

I dont know what the means when you say is the BOV recirculated ?? Im sorry
The car dosent smoke until i brake for going fast if i brake well just cruising no smoke.
I dont see no brake fluid gone, But im under the car right now i see a oil leak on the floor now shit".
I dont know where that came from look like its near the turbo
Heres pic hope i can help

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[Dsmkauai]

See the tube going from your bov to the intake tube that means its recirculated bro.

 

[Maudio909]

Im sorry guys im trying here
Ok thanks man i just learned something "
So what should i do ???
Anybody's input would help thank's
Im sorry might be a dumb question
But is this the stock motor for this car ?

 

[nickk90]

It could be your valve stem seals or turbo seals leaking when you let off the gas and have nothing to do with the brakes. Try accelerating then just letting off the gas with out touching the brakes.
How many miles are on that turbo it looks stock so I wouldn't be surprised if it was at the end of its life.

If you are losing brake fluid I guess it could be related to the brake booster sucking in brake fluid but I'm not sure if that is even possible.

 

[NHerron]

It's all good man welcome to the site

Yeah that's the original engine.

Can you take a pic of the turbo? Does it say 'turbocharger' anywhere on it? Like this:

 

[WES_393]

No worries, we were all newb's once. I would suggest looking at these links on your spare time to learn about the basics of these cars.

Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page

***master newbie thread*** - DSM Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum: DSMtalk.com

The first thing I would do is a boost leak test. It's one of the first things anyone should do to a newly purchased DSM. Boost leaks can cause all kinds of issues including backfiring and "stuttering". The basic idea is to pressurize the intake system (just like the turbo does) to find/fix any leaks. It would also be a good idea to visually check all the rubber lines (especially the one going to the brake booster) for cracks or rotting. Here are a few good links to making and using a boost leak tester.

IC Pipe Tester

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-boost-leak-test-how-boostpro-net-tester.html

But for the smoking, it's really hard to say without actually seeing it. If your absolutely sure it's white and not blue, that is a typical sign of water/coolant getting burned somehow, possibly from blowing the head gasket. Keep an eye on coolant levels and engine temperature. Pretty much just get a really good idea of where the smoke is coming from, which fluid is burning off, and how much.

And yes, is appears that is the stock engine type (4g63) for that car. Whether the previous owner swapped it out with a different version engine block, I don't know. But I do know the turbo is definitely not stock for a 2g (looks a like a 14b/16g from a 1g) and from here I can see your missing the vent line from the left hand side of the valve cover. But I would turn to VFAQ for how to identify the different engines and components.

 

[Maudio909]

Thank's guys i really do appreciate everyone's advice and input on things i should be looking for.
I do see i have an oil leak looks like its comming from some where near the turbo its dark outside cant tell.
Also the owner i got the car from told me the turbo was a 16g im not sure what that is from but yeah.
I really hope a can get her in good running shape, Also to mention im boost gauge says im only boosting 5psi so if that good or bad. Ill try to recorde a vid if i can guys

 

[DSM_RENEGADE]

Hey bro also did you try servicing your fuel injectors? Getting them clean?

 

[WES_393]

Thank's guys i really do appreciate everyone's advice and input on things i should be looking for.
I do see i have an oil leak looks like its comming from some where near the turbo its dark outside cant tell.
Also the owner i got the car from told me the turbo was a 16g im not sure what that is from but yeah.
I really hope a can get her in good running shape, Also to mention im boost gauge says im only boosting 5psi so if that good or bad. Ill try to recorde a vid if i can guys

If the turbo drain has a slight leak then I wouldn't worry about it right now, I doubt it's a cause of your issues. However, a leak at the turbo feed could cause some smoke so definitely check that out. I also wouldn't trust the stock boost gauge if that's where your seeing 5psi. It only measures airflow so boost readings are pretty innacurate. Does the car have a boost controller that you know of? If not, your likely running stock boost (~10psi), which is fine for a 16g on a stock DSM.

The 16g is a great upgrade, so long as it's not a knock-off 16g (like Herron posted). You can look up the serial number on the compressor housing. That will tell you which version it is and the performance specs about it.

 

[Maudio909]

I have a question if i was to replace the turbo would one off Ebay be ok ????
I think ots going to be the turbo guys im not to sure yet im going to take off intake check it out.
Also any where to buy a turbo for good price ??

 

[pauleyman]

New turbo? You're on step 2 or 3 of diagnosis and you're talking about step 50. You haven't even identified the root cause of the problem. Only under braking, I'm wondering if you're sucking in brake fluid. You could at least take the line off and see if there is anything in it. You could also cap the line on both sides and try it again (be damn careful as you won't have power brakes). If you're not familiar with what manual brakes feel like you might want to take a spin around a parking lot to do this. You will have to press HARD. Either way you need to find out the cause, then apply a solution. What you just wrote sounds like you're trying a solution before you even know the cause. That's a very expensive way to fix a problem.

That also does not look like the original motor. At the very least it's not a 2g valve cover as it's painted and the front motor removal bracket is from a 1g. That isn't a definitive check but it does hint that it might be a 1g motor in the car or at least a 1g head.

 

[NHerron]

That's why I asked about the turbo before. Like I said, does it say turbocharger on it anywhere? If it's a real Evo3 16G turbo, you want to keep it and rebuild it, IF it's even bad in the first place.

Pull the intake pipe (just after the air filter) off of the turbo inlet and look inside. Describe how the compressor fins look. Lastly, try to pull the turbo shaft out, in a side side fashion. You should not feel any movement here. Now move the turbo shaft up and down to see if it makes contact with the aluminum housing. You will feel a SMALL bit of movement here, but it should not rub anywhere.

If it says 'TURBOCHARGER' on it anywhere, it's junk. Do not buy eBay blow off valves, turbochargers, fuel pressure regulators, tubular exhaust manifolds, internal to the engine, timing belts, or water pumps. Some things are okay like FMIC piping, radiators, silicone hoses, etc.

 

[jtmcinder]

Try the following: find a steep slope and come to a stop with the nose pointing down. Just sit there, not moving, using the hand-brake, and rev the engine a few times; see if you can get the write smoke.

[Why? you ask. Because I want to know if it's a case of when the weight is shifted forward or it really has to do with the brakes.]

 

[NHerron]

Okay I take back the original engine part. It might not be, as already mentioned.

That's a JDM valve cover, JDM top timing cover, and stock 2G intake manifold. It's a very loose guess but comparing the JDM RVR turbo outlet to yours, it's pretty identical. Whereas the 1G turbo outlet goes at more of an angle over to the left.

Here is something to look at
How to quickly tell a 6bolt and 7bolt engine apart

 

[blueboost68]

Had the same prob. with my sc300 it had a bad brake booster. The seal would let brake fluid bypass evry time I got on the brakes hard.

 

[Maudio909]

So what should i be looking for to identify what motor this is ?
I just got home from work and i turned on the car and the CEL is on now.
Im so sad it seems like this car is just braking down one me.
I will get better pics of the motor and try to post a vid up for you guys to see.
I really do thank you guys for all your advice and input.
I will get up into good shape just gotta take it step by step.

 

[pauleyman]

Which motor it is probably isn't important right now. We need to find out why it's smoking under braking. Eliminate potential sources one by one. As stated above a likely source would be the brake booster.

 

[Maudio909]

I agree with you sir 100% on finding the issue first.
But knowing what motor i have in my car helps as well.
So i just got done looking at the turbo and yes its like the one posted above in the pic it says TURBOCHARGER.I checked the brake fluid and lines it is the same dont seem to be losing any.
Here are some pics could this be where the oil leak is comming from tryed to uplodad vid woent work

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[NHerron]

Post #18 will tell you if it's a 7 bolt engine vs 6 bolt (number of bolts holding flywheel to crankshaft). It's just a way to quickly identify certain things. Your 97' comes stock with a 7bolt 4G63 engine. Lots of times people swap in a 6 bolt engine which come from various years/cars but most common is from an early 1G (AKA "1Ga" 90-92) Eagle Talon turbo or Mitsubishi Eclipse turbo.

Now that you know the turbo is an eBay special, it would then be the time to check it's condition. Refer to #18. Sometimes people get lucky with the knockoffs, some don't.

If you follow what pauleyman and others have recommended, you should figure out the problems

 

[pauleyman]

Don't check your brake fluid lines, I was referring to the vacuum line to the brake booster. If there is a leak in the diaphragm it there is a possibility the motor could pull in brake fluid through this line under heavy braking/vacuum conditions such as what you describe. You could rule this out by capping both ends of the line but be warned this is a test only YOU WILL LOSE POWER BRAKES.