2G Slight knock at idle (Solved)

[VivaLaOC]

The other day when I was driving I came to a stop after driving on the freeway and was in neutral and ebrake was on and I started to hear a knock like sound almost like a belt smacking somewhere I thought the timing belt was loose but I checked on it and got it to TDC and it was tight and timing marks were perfect. I'm still hearing the knock though and I noticed oil pressure was somewhat low but my oil pressure wiring isn't the best either so it could be that too. I'm gonna do an oil change tomorrow and see what its looking like, I just really hope I didn't spin a bearing, but I also don't run anything over stock boost and as far as I know everything internally engine wise is stock. The only things I've done is master and slave cylinder, aftermarket boost guage and an MBC but its set at stock boost I got them and installed those two things I have a FPR and 255lph fuel pump that aren't installed.

 

[AWD-Tony]

Did the timing cover get damaged? Not sure if that pulley is alright to use. I wouldn't run it.

 

[VivaLaOC]

Did the timing cover get damaged? Not sure if that pulley is alright to use. I wouldn't run it.

No, the timing cover has no damage i only installed the part to test it and see if my main concern/problem had stopped which didn't include driving or anything. It's properly timed and all belts have tension I think that this balancer is also separated now after it got used for the first time cause that rubber seal was so bad. I'll check tomorrow morning to see it the balancer is separated like the one I replaced I have a strong feeling it is

 

[AWD-Tony]

I wasn’t sure if my balancer was oe so I asked the forum and concise was that it is. Just an fyi.

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[VivaLaOC]

Here's a video of it running and excuse the fact that I knocked my little tripod over while filming but I didn't want another take cause I don't want to keep the car running while it sounds this way.

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[AWD-Tony]

Pull the alt belt off and see if the noise is still there. If it’s still there, pull the ac belt. Then p/s belt. If noise is still there, you’ll have to inspect the tbelt components

 

[waltah]

Almost like a belt is rubbing on something but from what I saw there wasn't one rubbing at all, but the sound is effected with rpm and also if you turn on the headlights. Not exactly sure what's going on.

Bummer that you got a used part! That chip in the flange is what you get with over-enthusiastic use of a puller that doesn't fit quite right. I wonder if this is genuinely 'remanufactured' or just cleaned and repainted? The big question of course is the condition of the rubber -- as it ages it gets stiffer (so not as good damping of torsional vibrations in the crank) and more likely to fail.

A rubbing or other belt sound that varies when you turn the headlights on is an alternator belt with an issue. Might be just a bit loose? Or might be minor -- slipping because of the paint on the crank pulley groves and will go away in an hour or two.

I'd keep looking for a better -- new or NOS -- harmonic balancer. The rubber on NOS is old but if never run it hasn't been exposed to heat.

You might run a Mitsu engine a long time without fans in a mild climate but you'll pay for it in crumbling plastic connectors and failed rubber parts in the engine compartment. Good springtime check that they cycle when the engine is warmed up and idling.

 

[waltah]

... a cheap aluminum pulley that doesn't dampen might not be great for the motor, but it won't murder your valves by eating a timing belt either

Because the job of the harmonic balancer is to eat torsional vibrations of the crankshaft 'Not great for the motor' means 'increased risk of breaking the crank.' These things are OE on passenger cars so it's not an issue only for 'performance' applications.

For some 'more horsepower/more speed' modifications the trade-off is potentially shorter engine life. Each of us will have his own view of what makes sense.

 

[chrisman287]

Looks like that used one was “refurb’d” with just a can of spray paint.

For myself, I ended up ordering a VMS stock sized aluminum pulley. It’s in route.. I didn’t want to underdrive the alt/ps nor did I want to take a chance with an OE one being crap.

I also didn’t feel like shelling out the money for a Fluidampr when I hardly drive the car. There was one on Performance Partout for a good price but it’s gone.

 

[JeffGS-T97]

Looks like that used one was “refurb’d” with just a can of spray paint.

For myself, I ended up ordering a VMS stock sized aluminum pulley. It’s in route.. I didn’t want to underdrive the alt/ps nor did I want to take a chance with an OE one being crap.

I also didn’t feel like shelling out the money for a Fluidampr when I hardly drive the car. There was one on Performance Partout for a good price but it’s gone.

Was it the silver aluminum unorthodox racing pulley? I was looking at one for sale in the classifieds. I have the original version of it from the late 90s. They make really nice parts. I haven't heard of the one you got, hope it works good for you.

 

[chrisman287]

The one I ordered looks like a solid piece. It was $70 shipped.

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[slugsgomoo]

Because the job of the harmonic balancer is to eat torsional vibrations of the crankshaft 'Not great for the motor' means 'increased risk of breaking the crank.' These things are OE on passenger cars so it's not an issue only for 'performance' applications.

For some 'more horsepower/more speed' modifications the trade-off is potentially shorter engine life. Each of us will have his own view of what makes sense.

Well sure, though I'd say I've seen more broken cranks due to RPM + lack of a main girdle than anything else (especially in 2.4 blocks- used to have one in my garage). I doubt anyone is building one of these cars to run 500k without a rebuild, so the risk is pretty low.

If my choices were a fluidampr + no girdle, or an unorthodox + kiggly girdle, I'd go with the latter every time