1G short block build

[waterd]

as of right now i have a stock 1g motor in my 91gsx. i have a short block sitting on the stand just waiting to be built. but after reading many forums here im confused . i want to run 11s or 12s if i can. where should i start. i dont have a ton of money. but i would like a sweet race motor..any thought greatly appericated. thanks!

 

[boostedawd42]

I would do a stock rebuild with forged pistons/rods and call it a day.

 

[saechao04]

Depends, is the car going to be a daily driver? Stock 1g rods with 2g pistons should get you 400+ whp, then it's up to driving skill and weight reduction. 400+whp should get you into the 12's with decent driving and tune.

 

[BogusSVO]

you said you do not have alot money, so this is going to be a low buck build.

but what is your budget? what dollar amount do you have to work with?

What can be done with $300.00 is alot diffrent than a budget of $1500.00...
what parts have you already have? what supporting mods?

 

[waterd]

parts i have as of now are 2 complete stock 1g motors one in my 91 gsx and one completely apart. engine block cleaned resurfaced and new cross hatchs. i have the stock 1g crank installed. and thats as far as i got. So if i do the stock 1g rods with stock or aftermarket 2g pistons. and im considering bigger turbo, injectors, walbro pump. exhaust manifold intake manifold and intercoolor. im also debating on a manual trans swap. im going to remove powersteering and have already removed a/c. yes i would like to drive it daily but i have the stock motor in there for now untill the rebuild is done. i could probley spend around 1500 to 2000.... this is getting long but i also heard and read here about doing a galant block...is it worth it?

also sounds like i would have to bore my stock rods for the 2g pistons.is that true. im really excited to start rebuilding this block on the stand. which like i said has been cleaned resurfaced and honed

 

[BogusSVO]

yes the wrist pin bore Dia are diffrent between the 1g and 2g rods, from what I hear DSM graveyard sells a "kit" of the 1g rods and the 2g pistons.

get the bottom end spun balanced, with tthe budget you have you should be able to have that done.

how was the block surfaced?
what head work do you want/need done?

 

[waterd]

graveyard?is that a site.
spun balanced. is that to eliminate the balance shafts. or what are the advantages of this. im interested in this. ive never heard of it. sounds good.
i belive they decked the block. for a new mating surface for the head. not sure how. i took it to a machine shop.
i have the the second head sitting right now. my thoughts were port and polish, stainless steel valves, resurface and head studs..sound good? or what should i change. i would say the less money the better.
i stilll have alot of work on my 1g car to do. such as suspention brakes... and possible manual swap when installing built motor. if i get all the parts.

 

[LTUDSM]

graveyard?is that a site.
spun balanced. is that to eliminate the balance shafts. or what are the advantages of this. im interested in this. ive never heard of it. sounds good.
i belive they decked the block. for a new mating surface for the head. not sure how. i took it to a machine shop.
i have the the second head sitting right now. my thoughts were port and polish, stainless steel valves, resurface and head studs..sound good? or what should i change. i would say the less money the better.
i stilll have alot of work on my 1g car to do. such as suspention brakes... and possible manual swap when installing built motor. if i get all the parts.

at least i would save for a set of eagle rods and ross pistons. You just can't rebuild an engine for that kind of whp with a low budget.And after you will get whole internals into your block,don't forget to change:

Front oil cover
all the seals
freez plugs
water pump
Ill recommend you going with OEM parts

 

[dsm-onster]

What are you talking about? The op wants to run 12 maybe 11s

Waterd, which rods do you have that arn't installed? Your 1991 motor is a 6 bolt and thus has the 600whp capable big 1g rods. The 1993-1994 motors have the small 1g rods. And 2g motors have the small rods too. I recommend the big rods, since you have a set, maybe two sets .

The 2g pistons won't really help too much with durability. Some debate a little better ringland spacing, which makes sense. But primarily they will bump your compression up a little more. However, this can be a headache for a budget build because budget means safc/2g maf or maf translator, which adds timing to an already too aggresive timing map for 2g compression ratio.

I recommend OEM rebuilt 6bolt motor: npr rings, regular acl bearings, 7.8CR pistons, oem head gasket, arp headstuds (optional for 11sec goal), oem composite head gasket; and yes replace the front/rear main seals, front case gasket, b-shaft bearings or bshaft elimination, freeze plugs and water pump.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

I would do a stock rebuild with forged pistons/rods and call it a day.

W T F "Stock Rebuild" comes with forged pistons and rods?

How about offering up some ideas on which rods and which pistons and bearings to go with. Anything aftermarket he puts in it will not be "Stock".

 

[szewczyd]

Depends, is the car going to be a daily driver? Stock 1g rods with 2g pistons should get you 400+ whp, then it's up to driving skill and weight reduction. 400+whp should get you into the 12's with decent driving and tune.

400whp on a awd "should get you into the 12's with decent driving and tune"?? Are you kidding me? Understandable some people can't drive but 400 whp is way more than enough for 12's.

 

[beating4g63s]

So to the OP, I would go with the 1g big rods, 2g pistons. it's been proven for years, a set of of cheap used 650 injectors you can probably find these for 100+ if you search hard enough, set of valve springs and retainers I wouldn't worry about upgrading the stock valves with your budget, fuel pump, I would go with a set of arp head studs about 100 new, metal head gasket about 100 give or take, rod bolts 30 new, main bolts 60ish new, and acl bearings I believe they go for 90 for rods and mains new, and go with a downpipe and exhaust, and a used non ebay turbo like a good 16g. and a tune. don't quote me on the pricing thats fairly close on prices wise.

p.s. I would also start pricing regular maintance parts first like timing belt water pump, gaskets first, before ordering new performance parts, don't be a cheap skate and reuse the timing belt you already have nothing good will come of it.

 

[BogusSVO]

graveyard?is that a site.
spun balanced. is that to eliminate the balance shafts. or what are the advantages of this. im interested in this. ive never heard of it. sounds good.
i belive they decked the block. for a new mating surface for the head. not sure how. i took it to a machine shop.
i have the the second head sitting right now. my thoughts were port and polish, stainless steel valves, resurface and head studs..sound good? or what should i change. i would say the less money the better.
i stilll have alot of work on my 1g car to do. such as suspention brakes... and possible manual swap when installing built motor. if i get all the parts.

spun balance is getting the gram weight of the rods the same , the pistons the same and the crank brought to a true netural setting
it makes the engine run smoother so it dose not have to fight agisnt itself with diffrent weights on diffrent crank throws.

alot of people on the board use a balance shaft elniation kit too so that rotating mass is removed from the engine.

for your goals and budget, a PnP is not needed, the money spent there would be better spent in other areas. such as ARP head studs and a new set of valve springs.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341287-how-test-valve-springs.html
and the tech info on springs...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341209-4g63t-valve-spring-info.html

if anything a set of engnbldr stainless steel valves +1mm would help airflow and be less than PnP, but thos can be on the "be nice to have list" its a nice upgarde if money allows...

also, personally, I would go to H-beam rods and forged pistions BEFORE doing a PnP on the head, so the bottom end would be ready for about anything you would want to throw at it in the future

 

[waterd]

wow thank you all very much this is a lot of great info. yes i do have one set of 91 eclipse gsx 6bolt that stock motor is in car now. also in 3 bins i have all parts from my 92 talon tsi motor. the block cleaned sitting on the stand with crank installed. but sounds like i may take that back off and put better bearings in. that makes sence. i took my head from the tsi,"not that i think it matters" and got it resurfaced and resealed. and installed it on my stock motor in car. so i have too get my other head cleaned and checked. sounds like i will not do valves unless needed and put money else where. im going to order headers today i think for my stock motor. i just cant wait. . anyways, im going to get all new bolts for my crank and mains.also arp head studs. my block is bare now so i have no choice but to get new seals. i had a whole engine gasket from evergreen automotive from ebay but i think i will do oem for my build motor. Oem timing belt? or does it matter?i will talk with my machine shop guy and ask if he can spin balnce it for me. and elimate balnce shafts. is there a better ataac and filter w/blow off valve. ok now for turbo. the 16g, recommed here. is that the evo turbo or bigger? agian thank you too all of you for your fast answers and great debate. im starting to get a list from this. thanks

 

[waterd]

well i blow my head gasket. dumb ebay head gasket. but i resealed it with a muliti layer oem head gasket had arp head studs. i installed a big 16g with a walboro 255. now i boost around 20 psi and it cuts. i got a boost controller from modern automotive. but i cant get the boost to change. its still going to 20 psi with it all the way out. i didnt exactly what the instructions said. one line to extrernal waste gate and other to compressor side of turbo. agh. will i guess im going to get a aftermarket fpr with gauge. and hopfully injectors. i know i should get a wideband also. any help on this is greatly appreciated